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Just did my first two trees of the year. And did a fair amount of bucking with the 660. Was a little worried as my saws are run on ethanol blend pump gas and sit out on the porch (covered by a roof but open to the winter air) all winter. But it popped on the second pull, I flipped the choke...

I am 63 and had a few MC's back in my early teens. The MC6 was you basic starter engine (really foggy but I think they advertised around 4.7hp in most tests) the MC10 was a serious step up and of course the 101 was the pinnacle of the bunch. Had an MC10 with dual carbs, pipe, port and...

What kind of dummy would not torque the cylinder down adequately....... I mean yeah, my 660 jug came loose... but that's different ;-) Have not done a 440 yet so maybe some others will chime in on the wristpin bearing quality? If its anything like the 660 one then an OEM would be well worth the...

Poor old me found this site and H&L only after ordering my stuff from FT.....would have loved to ordered the MMWS update....

Yeah the FT bearings are like a buck or something. When you think about the size of the bearing, even though there is little rotation the fact that it sees the full compressive load as well as the full tension load any time it misfires its no wonder you need a quality bearing to keep the pins...

Look at the gap between the flywheel and the coil and push and pull the end of the crank toward and away from the coil and see if the gap gets bigger/smaller as you do so....if it does then your bearing is likely toast. As others have said the flywheel and crank are tapered...its the taper that...

One thing not mentioned yet is your average temps? If you are working in the 50° F then the cylinder is not going to be as hot as 50° C

Just gotta say that's one sweet ass jig you got holding the log in place!

Damn, you can't catch a break can you. Oh well better now than at the event.

OK call me out of touch, where/when is the GTG? Disregard just found the thread.

A friend of mine had an top alky dragster. We ran a 1.25 ID fuel hose.....shoulda seen the looks we got when the guys at the parts counter would ask what's it for LOLs, Looking forward to another vid!

Looks great, very cool tinwork,

CJ what kinda wood was that?

Amazon is another option if you have prime (free delivery) I got a 28" Oregon bar and chain (LGX full comp) for 74 dollars to my door. Also got a 30 dollar chain grinder from Harbor Freight and although its no Oregon 520-120, I have been really happy with it and have gotten good results....sure...

I guess an easy way to explain it without a picture would be that on a top beak you can see the beak looking straight down on the top of the chain. And conversely a side beak can be seen from the side of the chain. Totally counter intuitive to me as when one says top beak, I would naturally...

I got an alternative approach Mike....my grip is no longer what it used to be so when the lack of spark retard in the FT ignition causes kickback it just snaps the byxxtch out of my old ass fingers :-)

Hello all, New to grinding and hope to upgrade to a CBN wheel when the current one goes south. In regard to cleaning are CBN wheel used in sharpeners commonly made with a vitrified bond? When researching wheels for my concrete saw I read that CBN wheels often incorporate a resin bond....it would...

I built my 660 back in mid july and mine also hit the head without the gasket.....seems Farmertec is addressing the common issues one by one and that the recent run of jugs/cases are running a lot better as far as this goes.

Don't worry the fuel cap is on the top when milling..... I got some sort of plumbing gasket from the local hardware store while I wait for my 2nd OEM one to arrive......I was ordering the wristpin, bearing, and decomp and had forgotten to look up the fuel cap ring...so the guy at the counter...

I would suggest you upgrade to an OEM wristpin bearing and high volume oil pump.