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When I built my MS660 clone, the first thing I did was ditch the factory seals. Then I cleaned out the case, all drilled and tapped holes, dowel pin holes and the bearings with brake cleaner. I then blew everything out with compressed air, and relubed the bearings with 2-stroke oil. Made the...

I used a Meteor top end on my 660 as well. Heard too many horror stories about the Farmertec cylinders, like bad plating, out of round, casting flaws, ect. I was fortunate enough to not get a leaky gas cap, and my carb works good. If my lower rod bearing doesn't have any problems, we're good...

Wow, thats not very encouraging. I was looking at getting one of these as a saw to strap to the back of the 4-wheeler. May have to rethink the idea.

Cool. I got a couple of other things on back order from them for the 660.

Finished my MS 660 build tonight. Everything went together pretty good, and no missing parts. After 6 pulls, she popped. Flipped the control to run, and she fired up. I used the carb that came with the kit. Bottomed out the H & L screws in their seats, and then turned them out about 1 1/4 turns...

You might try Bailey's for the wristpin and bearing. The part # for the OEM wristpin bearing is: 9512 003 3281. The part # for the OEM wristpin is: 1122 034 1500. I just got a bearing from Bailey's for my Chi-Com MS660, $10.99 ea. . The wristpin does show up on their website. $25.99 ea. Ouch!

Yeah, very true. I think I'll upgrade the crank bearings to OEM, and hope the lower rod bearing plays nice. I've got an OEM wrist pin bearing on order. Just out of curiosity, what rpm did you have your high speed set at? I was thinking about setting mine around 12,800, using a 40:1 mix.

Man, that sucks. It sure got hot on the PTO side. This has me convinced that upgrading the main bearings to OEM might not be a bad idea after all. I hate to put a bunch $$$ into a knockoff saw, but I don't want to have to do a lower end overhaul on it all the time either.

Is it possible that the rod bearing failures are from excess heat created by the rod rubbing on the side of the crank journal, and overheating the rod bearing? In other words, the crank/rod assembly being off center in the crank case, relative to the centerline of the cylinder. Its a long shot...