It’s actually the opposite. A larger carb on less displacement needs more jet, not less. Moves less air so pulls less fuel. Happened to me with 026/044 carb swaps.
BTW, there ain’t much Venturi in the WJ.
Would you consider using some valve lapping compound on the flywheel/crank taper interface?
I tried using Loctite (albeit the blue) on a crank taper and had the opposite result than I thought, it actually slipped more.
Nate,
A dab of Al filler here. 2 spots on each side. Can hand grind at the end. I have 4047-supposed to be same alloy as slugs. 4043 would work. Quick dab and done. Shouldn’t anneal the piston.
I don’t think you need to worry about the lowers too much unless they are truly shrouded. You...
FWiW, you can’t easily run a 13mm pin in an 1128 crank. A 395 bearing will fit an 1122 crank small end and allow the use of a 288 piston, but the thinner bearing is still too big for an 1128 crank.
I learned the hard way when I tried using a 52mm 281 piston in a 440/460 hybrid. No worky.
Great work Nate.
Excellent craftsmanship and your ports look amazing.
That piston worries me a bit too.
Not sure why you are giving me any credit. I just said I always wanted to try it, you did it.
Great thread.
Prayers. He was a fine man. I spoke to him and communicated about building 562 and “equalizing the stratos”.
I am sorry I never had the pleasure of meeting him.
His life was cut way too short.
One of the most overbuilt saws I’ve even been in was a 266. Tough as nails. Hard to kill. 038M competitor.
Husky had it right with the 2 series. Then some of the 3 series, which were modded 2 series. Then things went awry IMHO.
The L hand ones are a pita. Reverse helps me finish the PTO side uppers to my liking with a stone or diamond. It’s annoying to cut from the exhaust to the intake side when doing the PTO uppers for me
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