Although balancing like a multi cylinder engine is not possible, it is crucial to have a correct balance factor wich is basically a ratio of reciprocating mass vs counterweight . That ratio is typically anywhere from 50-60% .
When modifying an original crank into full circle like posted above...
Some guys are going to be running gas saws in those class too . There's going to be a bunch of fast saws and knowledgeable guys there , sure worth the trip !
I’ve got you .
Ktm Sx50 clutch bearing . Part number # 45132015000
ID 15mm
OD 18mm
L 17mm
I’ve used that bearing as a wrist pin bearing for quite a couple big cc and HP builds and it’s a very high quality bearing that can stand the load and heat .
The rod bearing being an odd size is not a problem. Use standard pin , bearing and rod and machine the ends of the pin to fit . For the small end just pick a bearing to fit whatever your pin size is .
I think Deets was proposing to use a 084 conrod .
You don't need to heat the crank to press it apart , a 20 ton press , a bushing to press against and a punch to push the pin out is all you need . Seems much more complicated than it really is . With a pressing jig to put it back together I can press it apart and pin it back in under 15min...
Machining the weights and buffing the conrod is all that it needed to put the 3120 crank into a 2100 , even the key line up .
So yes you can also put a 3120 crank into a 288/395 .
Machining the weights is much simpler . For the rod just buff it till it clears , I've been putting those 2100 in 394 and jonsered 2095 for years to turn them into 6 cube racers and its been holding fine ;) What did you do for the key ?
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