Search results

Get that LH tooth side cutter straight or 1-2 degrees forward lean, looks like she’s leaning back a fuzz

I’d love to grab that cylinder

A great oil will help make a crap fuel look good A great fuel is still boogered up by a crap oil

5oz Dominator/gallon of fuel

Smaller engines need less oil, my 35cc polesaw runs a 16” with .375 chain, it’s allways loaded and oozes oil outta the muffler running the same mix as my dry saws. Engines under more load need more oil. Consider a milling setup and most anyone will tell you run fuel fat and extra oil.

I’ve got a few good straight “sticks” of genuine Hickory that I can cut to length and mill into slabs, then rip them into individual pieces for handles

It certainly does !!! I’ve got a little itch to see if I can make a handle for myself for it before it splits like yours (and potentially worse). Is it best to use heartwood or no ? Going to have to sand down my little Stihl to see about its grain, that picture above looks like it might also...

The Stihl is the same as the Ochsenkopf, except that the Stihl has the handle protector. I sanded away the Stihl paint on the bottom of the handle to check the grain orientation, then gave it a puddle of BLO

I don’t believe there was anything different on the very early 12mm ones @drf256

You’re doing a great job with the throttle, appreciate the work you put in to keep the fence-lines in place !

Good to see her at work again, the first ones sold are prone to this, sadly

Surprises me about that Ohmygosh Ochsenkopf !! I’d definitely re-hang that head, it’s pretty good stuff for being new nowadays. I’d probably also get a longer handle on it

I worked on LawnBoys as a HS teenager back in the 80’s ……. Love them !!! Every below deck muffler got the burp gun in the weephole to open it up to about 1/2”. They ran much better and were only marginally louder. Kept the exhaust ports clear too

Does the one on the left still have points ? Middle one came with electronic ignition, IIRC, and the one 1/4” fuel mixture adjustment on the top of the carb ??

Got the front end all set. Offset uppers, 1.250 stabilizer bar, adjustable strut rods with rod ends, flat rate springs, new spring saddles with bearings, corrected lower arms, new corrected knuckles, already had the disks and studs from a few ways back.

I would use a diamond ball and flatten it out, then run it like you stole it after installing a new piston

Saw polishing is one thing, IF that’s your thing, but chain buffing ??? I consider myself a “chain guy”, what’s this chain buffing about, pics please ?????

Yuppers, one ring will work, but it’s too easy to shift the one ring while manipulating the piston, so 2 rings gives you some wiggle room without worrying about anything moving in the bore One ring for checking timing numbers !!

Stick 2 rings in the cylinder, with the piston on the rod, slide the cylinder over the piston. The piston will move to BDC as you push the cylinder down. Get at least 2 bolts tight (diagonally opposite from each other) then you can remove the cylinder. Now remove the piston from the rod and...