Part Seven: Carburation

Nutball · Dec 9, 2019

The alternator doesn't have to be separate (pulley driven??) to sap power. It simply has to exist and have a current draw.

Actually just the existence of the generator on that saw causes a power loss due to eddy currents in the stator caused by the magnets regardless of electrical load.

moparnut88 · Dec 9, 2019

I’ve got 3 346 huskys 1 heated and my heated one is def the most sluggish and is most down on power. All three are stock. The extra coil does takes some power. Can’t say how much but you can feel it when the heat is on. Plus the extra weight is slower revving.

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huskyboy · Dec 9, 2019

http://opeforum.com/threads/661-heated-handle-robbing-power.9877/ Julian took down the videos, but there was no difference in power. In fact it was faster with the heat on

.

MustangMike · Dec 9, 2019

The 460 does have separate components (that go behind the flywheel) to generate the electric for the handle.

I don't care about unscientific tests. Julian's tests likely reflected that the power loss is minimal, but:

It is IMPOSSIBLE to generate electrical power w/o using some energy … PERIOD! To believe otherwise is to believe the earth is flat … cause you've seen it!

huskyboy · Dec 9, 2019

MustangMike said:
Julian's tests likely reflected that the power loss is minimal

Yes, that was my point. Not that generating electricity doesn’t take power to do... I get what your saying. What I’m saying is... once the flywheel is spinning.... the rotational mass of that flywheel spinning 10k rpm overcomes most of what small amount of energy it takes to create the electricity in that tiny generator. Making the power loss in this situation minuscule.

huskyboy · Dec 10, 2019

I mean thinking about it, wouldn’t a guy have to retune his saw every time he switched the heat on and off if it was that massive of a power difference? Would be incredibly inconvenient lol. I can’t tell a difference with my heated 7301. I don’t even think about that sort of thing. I just run the darn thing, keeps my hands warm and it runs good that’s all I know.

Funky sawman · Dec 10, 2019

MustangMike said:
Sorry, but it is impossible to generate electricity from a saw (or from any source for that matter) w/o loosing a bit of power. If you could generate electric power w/o expending any energy, the planet would have been green a long time ago!

It may be very minor, and almost imperceptible, but you loose a bit of power. To say otherwise is to violate the laws of physics!

I Violate the laws of physics daily........im still alive and standing lol

Funky sawman · Dec 10, 2019

Ive often wondered tne same thing about heated handles. I did check by tach 2 saws switching the handle heat on and off while throttle is pinned, stihl early 12mm 044 and the masterminded jonnyred 2171w that i got from bryanr2 that chipper1 has now. NO RPM variation at all, even at idle

Funky sawman · Dec 10, 2019

I guess you could compair it to this. My dodge cummins ISB5.9, add 500 lbs in the rear, i see no difference in fuel useage or engine loadwhen driving on flat ground. I have a laptop that interlinks for tuning the ecm, it tells me gallons per hr fuel rate and load percentage. Now take same load and put it in a honda civic, its gonna work hard to carry same load.

Terry Syd · Dec 10, 2019

Think about how much energy it takes to cross the magnetic lines of flux across a magnet and coil - and then the amount of energy it takes to drag just one cutter through a piece of wood. - There's a fair bit of difference.

Definitive Dave · Dec 10, 2019

MustangMike said:
I don't care about unscientific tests.

RI Chevy · Dec 10, 2019

Mike: technically you are correct. But really, come on now, your splitting hairs. Julian tested this theory out. Proof was right there. No loss of power. Undetectable in a chain saw.
So small, one would never even realize it. The stator spinning making power (heat) is made as a byproduct.
As far as scientific and unscientific, thats common sense too. Think of the tests as realistic, not scientific and we'all good.

David Young · Dec 10, 2019

I believe the heater is like 50-60 watts I am certain on all models it would be less than 70 watts.

how many watts to horsepower? 746

also. Many muffler modded and ported saws don’t need a h jet adjustment. More flow through a Venturi will draw more fuel up to the upper limits of the carb.

you hear people parrot. After a muffler mod you need to richen up the carb 1/4 turn. Lol

a 1/4 TURN! Lol

Of course most people don’t know how to tune a carb to begin with.

Edited looked up actual info 15 watts was low. Husky 2xx service manual claims 56-65 watts.

huskihl · Dec 10, 2019

@David Young

Spot on. All of it. I bet there would be a noticeable difference in power up around 100w or so. If hp vs wattage wasn’t important, we could pick a little economic 20cc engine to power a 20kw generator

There is definitely some power lost, but it’s too minor to detect. Doesn’t matter how fast it’s spinning, doesn’t matter how big or small the fw is.

RI Chevy · Dec 10, 2019

My post wasn't spot on???[emoji2957][emoji2369]

Funky sawman · Dec 10, 2019

From carburators to heated handles and now laws of physics! Time to get Tesla involved here somewere, and why not Einstine too lol

Not making fun of anyone here, just find it entertaining is all

huskihl · Dec 10, 2019

RI Chevy said:
My post wasn't spot on???[emoji2957][emoji2369]

Part of it maybe. But the generated power isn’t a byproduct. The power needed to run the generator isn’t free, it’s just so minuscule that it’s not noticeable.

MustangMike · Dec 10, 2019

Agree with Kevin's statements. The larger the saw, the less likely you will notice it.

It is like running the AC in a car … with a 4 cyl you will often really notice it, with a V-8 it will often be imperceptible. That does not mean the AC in the V-8 uses less power, it is just a smaller percentage of the total power.

RI Chevy · Dec 10, 2019

Not even Mike. You may never, ever notice it on a chainsaw.

Ketchup · Dec 10, 2019

Nutball said:
Should you drill out where the needle goes, or only drill the little brass insert thing?

I just drill the brass insert. Drilling the carb body can effect the needle fit and damage the tunability. I’m sure it’s childs play for a good machinist to drill both and even make new needles but I think the constriction is usually at the brass jet orifice.

Part Seven: Carburation

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