Picked up a couple of brand new Stihls today...

BonScott46 · Oct 8, 2019

@Evansaw'with extreme changes in working conditions the optimal setting can be reached faster in the following way: make 5 similar cuts under full load.'

angelo c · Oct 8, 2019

Any chance of a close look at the solenoid valve in the carby ? I went through a bit of a challenge with a 661 and all the issues cleared up with a new "kit" from Stihl ...new fuel filter (orange) new coil(didn't make a hill of beans for difference) and a new "white" solenoid and it's a brand new girls now. MOST if not ALL of the problems I've had with new MT saws have been solenoid related. Just saying.

BonScott46 · Oct 8, 2019

angelo c said:
Any chance of a close look at the solenoid valve in the carby ? I went through a bit of a challenge with a 661 and all the issues cleared up with a new "kit" from Stihl ...new fuel filter (orange) new coil(didn't make a hill of beans for difference) and a new "white" solenoid and it's a brand new girls now. MOST if not ALL of the problems I've had with new MT saws have been solenoid related. Just saying.

I hear you but this is a brand spanking new saw, manufacture date May 2019, with the orange filter. I will try calibrating it like was suggested and run the saw in before going further with the idea that something is wrong.

Evansaw · Oct 8, 2019

BonScott46 said:
The 5 cuts is what it says in the manual. There is nothing else about the mtronic system and calibration.

Must be wrong your manual

For sure mtronic v2 needs 90seconds idle while mtronic v3 needs 30sec idle and 60sec throttle.

I am frequently calibrating my saws like this.

Evansaw · Oct 8, 2019

BonScott46 said:
I hear you but this is a brand spanking new saw, manufacture date May 2019, with the orange filter. I will try calibrating it like was suggested and run the saw in before going further with the idea that something is wrong.

If you don’t fix it by calibrating 90sec you can go to any dealership and calibrate it through the machine

drf256 · Oct 8, 2019

To the best of my knowledge, the 261CM uses the old reset, 90 seconds choked, touch nothing, shut off. Then cut wood.

The 462 uses the other new method only, and other saws like the 661 used both, so one needs to determine which version they need.

Either way, a warmed up saw shouldn’t be harmed by a piss rev. Especially not a MT.

BonScott46 · Oct 8, 2019

drf256 said:
To the best of my knowledge, the 261CM uses the old reset, 90 seconds choked, touch nothing, shut off. Then cut wood.

The 462 uses the other new method only, and other saws like the 661 used both, so one needs to determine which version they need.

Either way, a warmed up saw shouldn’t be harmed by a piss rev. Especially not a MT.

That is correct as far as I know. New version on the 462, 661 and the 201 rear handle according to the dealer. 30-60 seconds on choke and then WOT until the rpm's roller coaster and then come down again. Redbull just did a video with a 462.

Slacker · Oct 8, 2019

The big question for dummies like me....
I dont know which Mtronic version my 261c is. If it's a V2...and I idle it for 90 seconds and piss rev..will it still recalibrate?

BonScott46 · Oct 8, 2019

Slacker said:
The big question for dummies like me....
I dont know which Mtronic version my 261c is. If it's a V2...and I idle it for 90 seconds and piss rev..will it still recalibrate?

Start saw in choke position. Let saw idle at least 90 seconds without touching the throttle. Turn off saw. Do not rev saw at any time during this process.

RI Chevy · Oct 8, 2019

Did it fix the issue with the saw? This 261cm?

If you call Stihl with your serial number they will tell you. There was a cosmetic differentiation between V1 and V2 for 261s. Clutch cover is most obvious I think.
@Slacker

Nutball · Oct 8, 2019

The manual also says to not run them at full throttle when new for 10min or 10 tanks, I forget, because high rpm is too stressful for the new parts.

I'd just get a ported Echo.

BonScott46 · Oct 8, 2019

Nutball said:
The manual also says to not run them at full throttle when new for 10min or 10 tanks, I forget, because high rpm is too stressful for the new parts.

I'd just get a ported Echo.

Well mine got WOT for at least a minute on it’s first start after warming up for less than 30 seconds.

Nutball · Oct 8, 2019

At least they don't get too hot just revving, maybe 200-250F from what I've seen. 320-450F in the cut. The muffler will get hot though, might even glow when not under load.

RI Chevy · Oct 8, 2019

BonScott46 said:
Well mine got WOT for at least a minute on it’s first start after warming up for less than 30 seconds.

No worries there! Rings have to seat... If she's gonna blow, it would be then...
I've seen NASCAR motors worth upwards of $60k get brought up to temp and flogged flat out up and down for a few minutes straight. Ground shook.
Then builder said this ones good to go racing...Lol

angelo c · Oct 8, 2019

Slacker said:
The big question for dummies like me....
I dont know which Mtronic version my 261c is. If it's a V2...and I idle it for 90 seconds and piss rev..will it still recalibrate?

Maybe I'm confusing this issue some. It's the SOLENOID that dictates the reset procedure ...not the version or the color or whatever else . When Stihl started making the discovery that ALL the black solenoids were chit they started "fixing" it...and the production lines may reflect "partial" replacements of the "complete repair kits" you may have a new saw that sat in a box somewhere "partially" fixed . Find out what solenoid you have then run THAT reset procedure. Also thre is NO reset of the "computer" with the "shop" diagnostics tool. If your saw is not running a reset correctly PER solenoid version, then you have a bad solenoid.

RI Chevy · Oct 8, 2019

Good point Angelo. Maybe I am confusing the issue.
@Cobby08
A little help here please.

BonScott46 · Oct 8, 2019

Nutball said:
At least they don't get too hot just revving, maybe 200-250F from what I've seen. 320-450F in the cut. The muffler will get hot though, might even glow when not under load.

It got hot alright, it was uncomfortable holding it when he got done with it. I tried to let it cool down but he insisted I start it again. I pulled maybe 6-7 times and nothing, then he told me to choke it to get it going which worked. I wouldn't think a saw would need to be choked when it was warmed up unless it was overheated.

drf256 · Oct 8, 2019

261 v1 and v2 both same old style reset

sawmikaze · Oct 9, 2019

angelo c said:
Maybe I'm confusing this issue some. It's the SOLENOID that dictates the reset procedure ...not the version or the color or whatever else . When Stihl started making the discovery that ALL the black solenoids were chit they started "fixing" it...and the production lines may reflect "partial" replacements of the "complete repair kits" you may have a new saw that sat in a box somewhere "partially" fixed . Find out what solenoid you have then run THAT reset procedure. Also thre is NO reset of the "computer" with the "shop" diagnostics tool. If your saw is not running a reset correctly PER solenoid version, then you have a bad solenoid.

The coil determines the reset procedure.

261s use the old reset.

sawmikaze · Oct 9, 2019

Slacker said:
The big question for dummies like me....
I dont know which Mtronic version my 261c is. If it's a V2...and I idle it for 90 seconds and piss rev..will it still recalibrate?

No piss rev required on a 261.

As mentioned...let it idle for 90 seconds then shut it off and go cut some fukkin wood.

Picked up a couple of brand new Stihls today...

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