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McCulloch Super Pro 125c build thread

Al Smith

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On those rod bolts ,which I know is great fodder for debate I've always used "Hollow Chrome " brand .For the simple reason I trust that brand rather than others .A box of 50 is not that costly . I've turned down one set I used on a 125 for myself and sent out I think 3 or 4 to others . If you could get lucky enough to even find the splined bolts you would need the socket to remove or install which most people don't have .On top of that if they come up on flea bay they think they are made of gold .
 

Al Smith

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The likelihood on that would be rare .No more than a 125 would be used isn't that great .In decent shape with that in mind unless it got shelved for a long period of time and it tied up those big old yellow saws should almost last forever .
 

PogoInTheWoods

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The likelihood on that would be rare

Guess I shoulda used a 'tongue-in-cheek' smiley thingie for clarification. Sorta figured the LOL would suffice to indicate the futility for the rest of us at having such wild and crazy thoughts.

Hell, I'm still trying to find a decent PM850 project that won't require a second mortgage.
 

Al Smith

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[QUOTE="PogoInTheWoods, post: 929364, member: 1190

Hell, I'm still trying to find a decent PM850 project that won't require a second mortgage.[/QUOTE] They just pop up every so often on flea bay .I screwed up my 805 after I replaced the cylinder with an 850 cylinder because the chrome delaminated .The cylinder was cheap . By mistake I straight gassed it with a prime. My fault no excuse, I did it .I landed a complete 850 that was rough but the engine was good and that's what under the shrouding .It was about 100 bucks complete ,saw .Hang in there ,one will materialize some time .
 

p61 western

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The saw in my avatar came from Rich Dougan .I've talked to him on the phone .
Before I found the saw forums Rich helped me out with parts and advice a number of times. Pretty good guy in my book, and has lots of knowledge about many different brands of saws.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Talked to him a couple times myself after trying every other resource I could think of and no one else could tell me how to install the trigger lock button on a Husky 312o. Damned if he couldn't either. I finally figured it out. Was one of those "if it were a snake it woulda bit me" situations, but pretty weird even so. Still holding last I heard.

And Rich is worth his weight in gold with this video alone! Pretty easy when ya know how. Just "give it a little shake and that motor comes right out". LOL Priceless.

He certainly does know his big Macs, too.

 
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Al Smith

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On that 805 engine I screwed up I think the cylinder will clean up but it trashed the piston .I haven't done anything with it .I'll get on it some day I suppose but Ill have to find what size piston it will take .It was an A bore size but it's hard to say what it will be allowing for wear etc .You can find B and C bores but A's don't popup that often . I just might just wait until a whole saw pops up on the cheap .Parts are parts .
On the other hand I might get a burr under my tail and cut an iron liner for that one too like I did for one of the 125's .First I have to get the Monarch lathe running again .It's always something .
 

jacob j.

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I haven't made a whole lot of progress on this guys (last night was nice after work so I got a couple hours of painting in), but I'm starting to get the engine buttoned up.

Lee and Mark H. mentioned over in the CP-125 build thread last year that the ignition backing plate uses two seals, and a piece of felt in a recess to catch fuel mix weeping
from a drain hole that accesses the race in between where the two seals would be. Since the existing seals in this saw are hard as a rock, I went with an SKF 6620 seal. I've
had good luck with these in other applications. This will be an occasional use saw so I'm not too worried about mix weeping into the points. Here I've got an arrow pointing to where the
plastic washer, plastic seat, retainer, and hardware goes for the coil wire, condenser wire, and the points tension spring.



This picture shows where the excess fuel would weep out - there would be a piece of felt held in here with a clear piece of plastic epoxied in place.

 
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jacob j.

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I got the backing plate installed - I use a thin layer of Loctite 518 on the crankcase flange where the back of the plate interfaces with the crankcase. In some saws, I've seen
a thin rubber O-ring between the backing plate and the crankcase, but I don't know if that was original from the factory or something that someone did later. Here, I have
everything mocked up. When I rolled the crank over, I could see that the existing points wouldn't close all the way, no matter how I adjusted them. So I dug through my
parts box and found a much nicer looking set of points and got them seated and adjusted correctly.

 

jacob j.

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After getting the new points installed, and getting everything snugged up, I installed the flywheel and torqued the new flywheel nut down snugly, and
spun everything over with my cordless drill - we have fat, blue spark. Tomorrow, I'll pull the flywheel and install the rest of the backing plate screws,
the points cover and retainers, and torque the new flywheel nut to 375-425 inch-pounds.

 

jacob j.

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So you use just the one seal? How was the chrome on the other cylinder?

Yessir, just the one seal. The 6620 is a thick seal and it blocks the "weep" hole. I'm not really too worried about weep - that's from an era
when 16:1 was the standard mix. This saw will run 32:1 of the "good stuff."

The chrome on the other cylinder isn't bad - the engine previously had a moisture seize, but luckily Ross doped it up with PB Blaster
when he got it and it broke loose fairly easily. The old piston is junk but I think the cylinder can be saved.
 
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