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661 question of the day !!!

angelo c

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Aluminum on plating. But if there's a proper oil film.....no contact. The intake port is wide.....and that means only a small portion of the piston skirt is supported during the stroke. On the down stroke it evidently bulges into the port just enough to cause it to make contact with the floor of the port as it nears the bottom of it's travel.
"Proper" oil film.... I keep hearing of situations were solenoid saws are not happy near or above 32:1 oil. What's your experience ?
 

Mastermind

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"Proper" oil film.... I keep hearing of situations were solenoid saws are not happy near or above 32:1 oil. What's your experience ?

I've seen smaller Stihls, and Husqvarnas that are computer controlled run much better on 40:1 rather than 32:1.

The larger saws aren't affected as much.

Also....Stihl Ultra doesn't work well at all at any richer ratio than 50:1 in the long term.
 

angelo c

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I've seen smaller Stihls, and Husqvarnas that are computer controlled run much better on 40:1 rather than 32:1.

The larger saws aren't affected as much.

Also....Stihl Ultra doesn't work well at all at any richer ratio than 50:1 in the long term.

Odd how the solenoid controllers are the same. And Ultra is not an option for me as I can't deal wth the headache it leaves me with .
 

angelo c

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white solenoid and swapped out 4702 coil "helped" slightly but will still not Idle proper( seems like 100rpm low- then dies out unless you goose it). Let the saw scream for 30sec like V2 reset calls for but no "smooth out" to indicate recalibrated. Next up fuel filter. thanks for watching.
 

Mastermind

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white solenoid and swapped out 4702 coil "helped" slightly but will still not Idle proper( seems like 100rpm low- then dies out unless you goose it). Let the saw scream for 30sec like V2 reset calls for but no "smooth out" to indicate recalibrated. Next up fuel filter. thanks for watching.

Junk I tell ya
 

Moparmyway

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white solenoid and swapped out 4702 coil "helped" slightly but will still not Idle proper( seems like 100rpm low- then dies out unless you goose it). Let the saw scream for 30sec like V2 reset calls for but no "smooth out" to indicate recalibrated. Next up fuel filter. thanks for watching.
Just making sure that you followed all of the steps for the 4702 reset ........

1. Place lever to start and let run 30-45 seconds
2. Hit wide open throttle and hold
3. RPM's will vary, increasing.
4. Once rpm's drop release throttle and turn off.
Completed !
 

angelo c

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Just making sure that you followed all of the steps for the 4702 reset ........

1. Place lever to start and let run 30-45 seconds
2. Hit wide open throttle and hold
3. RPM's will vary, increasing.
4. Once rpm's drop release throttle and turn off.
Completed !
Tried again wont idle on start for 30. Did it as long as possible the WFO but stumbling and wont "smooth" out and No discernable drop. Just screams like it's up against a limiter.
 

blacksmith

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If you're not dead set on a fully M-tronic why don't you just swap the carb out for a WJ-69? Then you won't have to worry about keeping solenoids on hand anyways.

If someone already said that I apologize. I must have missed it if you did.
 

Jimmy in NC

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Yet another reason why I would rather not mess with used saws.
Same thing when someone asks me to rewind a starter or replace a primer bulb. You do that and THEN you get to fix the unit. Rarely is it just a cord or bulb.

I've seen pictures of saws sent for porting that were no closer to running than me winning a marathon.
 

Mastermind

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Same thing when someone asks me to rewind a starter or replace a primer bulb. You do that and THEN you get to fix the unit. Rarely is it just a cord or bulb.

I've seen pictures of saws sent for porting that were no closer to running than me winning a marathon.

Pics of you in your marathon gear?
 
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