High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Husqvarna 562 Transfer repair

RedFir Down

Super OPE Member
Local time
8:34 PM
User ID
437
Joined
Jan 8, 2016
Messages
263
Reaction score
541
Location
Idaho
Country flag
Hello guys.
I had this saw ported a few years ago and it never did run right. I was irritated about the whole deal so I threw it on the shelf and that's were it sat until now.
I pressure/ vac tested the saw and it had a bad leak between the crankcase and cylinder (Dirko was used).
Upon pulling the cylinder and looking it over I seen 2 smears of Dirko in the transfer tunnels covering over small holes that went into the muffler bolt threads.

My question is what would be the best way to fix this? Would this area get to hot for JB Weld to work?

Note- The individual that ported the saw is no longer around the forum and it really doesn't matter who it was.

Thanks for the help.
 

RedFir Down

Super OPE Member
Local time
8:34 PM
User ID
437
Joined
Jan 8, 2016
Messages
263
Reaction score
541
Location
Idaho
Country flag
Here's a few pictures.
46dfe19a6a4addd6f9bb457d9753b2ec.jpg
2e58478e0a8b75d8bf4eade94209739b.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Terry Syd

Pinnacle OPE Member
Local time
1:34 PM
User ID
575
Joined
Jan 18, 2016
Messages
1,589
Reaction score
5,973
Location
Comboyne, NSW Australia
Country flag
Would this area get to hot for JB Weld to work?

I doubt that that area gets very hot at all, especially with all the transfer flow, the JB Weld should be just fine.

Re the porting - I like the smooth flowing 'dimple' effect that was achieved using a round ball cutter, quite unique...
 

Canadian farm boy

“Normal” people scare me.
GoldMember
Local time
10:34 PM
User ID
309
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
7,806
Reaction score
49,229
Location
Ontario, Canada
Country flag
You said the saw also had an air leak at the cylinder base. I’m thinking the cylinder extension may be bottoming out in the cases before the cylinder.
It would definitely be worth checking. Perhaps simply installing a base gasket instead of dirko will be enough or you can sand down the cylinder extension some and try dirko again.
 

jacob j.

Lord of Cargo Pants
GoldMember
Local time
7:34 PM
User ID
232
Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
8,898
Reaction score
62,081
Location
Coastal Oregon
Country flag
I agree with CFB - I've had two ported 562s and one was done by a local guy who didn't know to machine the
cylinder extension. Luckily I caught it before I put the saw into service full time (it had an air leak that the auto-tune
was compensating for).
 

RedFir Down

Super OPE Member
Local time
8:34 PM
User ID
437
Joined
Jan 8, 2016
Messages
263
Reaction score
541
Location
Idaho
Country flag
Can you get to the holes on the outside of the cylinder?
No, just from the transfer port.

You said the saw also had an air leak at the cylinder base. I’m thinking the cylinder extension may be bottoming out in the cases before the cylinder.
Thanks for the heads up. I just went out and checked and cylinder extension has not made any marks in the case halves and everywhere I measure it clears by about .5mm.
While out there looking it over closer I noticed the 2 bottom transfer cover screws where hitting the case so I filed those till they didn't touch.

As of now I'm thinking between the transfer screws hitting the case and a poor prep job for the Dirko application is why it had a massive air leak. (While pressure testing I could pump my Mityvac 8500 as fast as I could and I couldn't build more that 5 PSI)
 

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
GoldMember
Local time
10:34 PM
User ID
319
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
9,334
Reaction score
61,422
Location
Strong Island NY
Country flag
Should be more than a few threads on porting the 562 if I remember correctly.

I still haven’t done one, but I do recall reading that areas on the case need to be relieved, even to drop it a gaskets thickness. I don’t recall which areas. In addition, I’ve been told it’s one saw where a case gasket is a must, unlike others.

I’d say JB would work great, just put lightly oiled ex bolts in the holes before hand or use a thread cleaner afterwards.
 

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
GoldMember
Local time
10:34 PM
User ID
360
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
143,004
Location
East Jordan, MI
Country flag
2 areas... in the front left and right need to be relieved for clearance. Also, make sure you oval the lower muffler bolt holes. If not, when you tighten the muff bolts, it will lift up on front of the cylinder causing a leak.

The mitivac going up to 5 psi on vacuum sounds like it might be sucking in the decomp.

If the exhaust bolts reach the areas that were ground through, you could smear more dirko on the bolt threads. Or like you mentioned, a little flat dab of jb would work after you degrease the area. I'd have the bolt installed first if I did this, or clean it up with a tap the next day
 

srcarr52

Shop rat, backyard slice cutter.
GoldMember
Local time
10:34 PM
User ID
522
Joined
Jan 12, 2016
Messages
3,920
Reaction score
25,886
Location
Iowa City
Country flag
I can't remember if it's the 562 or 550, but on one of them an upper transfer cap screw hits the case on the wingding on the clutch side.

Both take a fair amount of clearancing to get the cylinder to sit flat. I normally reuse the gasket on these saws, but I still make sure the cylinder will sit flat without the gasket.

Front PTO side corner usually needs clearance for the transfer cap and screw.
Rear flywheel side usually needs a little massaging to clear a lip on the cylinder.
Flywheel side of case needs a little love to get the intake partition to drop all the way down.
Plastic flange on the cab tray needs a little trimming for the partition.

I painters tape over the crankcase and grind on the case while holding the shop vac to suck up chips as their being made.
 

huskyboy

Sorta a husqvarna guy...
Local time
10:34 PM
User ID
1352
Joined
May 30, 2016
Messages
10,025
Reaction score
43,448
Location
Ct
Country flag
Some really good info in this thread!
 

RedFir Down

Super OPE Member
Local time
8:34 PM
User ID
437
Joined
Jan 8, 2016
Messages
263
Reaction score
541
Location
Idaho
Country flag
I’d say JB would work great, just put lightly oiled ex bolts in the holes before hand or use a thread cleaner afterwards.
Good idea, thanks for the pointer.

Also, make sure you oval the lower muffler bolt holes. If not, when you tighten the muff bolts, it will lift up on front of the cylinder causing a leak.
I'll check this tonight, thanks.

The mitivac going up to 5 psi on vacuum sounds like it might be sucking in the decomp.
At the time I only did a pressure test, didn't get to a vac test because It leaked so bad. I plugged the decomp when I pulled the cylinder.

If the exhaust bolts reach the areas that were ground through, you could smear more dirko on the bolt threads.
Good idea, I'll check this tonight as well.

I can't remember if it's the 562 or 550, but on one of them an upper transfer cap screw hits the case on the wingding on the clutch side.
I noticed that last night, It clears by about a mm.

Flywheel side of case needs a little love to get the intake partition to drop all the way down.
Plastic flange on the cab tray needs a little trimming for the partition.
These are the area's I haven't checked yet, thanks for pointing that out.
 
Top