MG porting
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Better oil and more of it the bearings aren't ass good.... But I'm sure you ported the cylinder to this is why I run the clones I've built 32:1 they need that extra oil.
Started Asian 440 BB #4 Today
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Better oil and more of it the bearings aren't ass good.... But I'm sure you ported the cylinder to this is why I run the clones I've built 32:1 they need that extra oil.
One of these days if I have to rebuild my saw I'm going to hunt down a set of ceramic bearings for crank and do a OEM for bottom rod bearing.
MustangMike
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I spent a lot of money to put ceramic bearings in a bike, and did not notice any difference at all. In addition, they don't like vibrations (ceramic is very hard, but brittle) so I would not put them in anything other than a race saw.
If you can find/afford any OEM crank, I'm sure they are better. Wish you could just change the bottom bearing. However, I think the 660 cranks have been holding up well.
If you can find/afford any OEM crank, I'm sure they are better. Wish you could just change the bottom bearing. However, I think the 660 cranks have been holding up well.
MustangMike
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Gotta be some other folks out there with time on these AM 440 cranks … with issues or not???
BuckthornBonnie
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I’ve had them in my cart a few times, but never pulled the trigger to try one.
AM cranks, Huztl cylinders for pro saws, and any other piston besides OEM and Meteor scare me (have tried a few of those other items).
AM cranks, Huztl cylinders for pro saws, and any other piston besides OEM and Meteor scare me (have tried a few of those other items).
smokey7
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I have several aftermarket cranks in saws for homeowners and firewood guys. Havnt seen any failures other then I've had so e rejects from being out or true/phase wrong dimensions/diameter missing key slots.
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I would bet that poring the oil to them as in 32:1 or more and of a good quality they will likely last a while longer. I'm betting that the wear surfaces (pins/rollers/races) are not as hard or free from imperfections. So they just won't last as long as a pen crank regardless of amount of quality of oil.
MustangMike
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I have no delusions that the AM cranks/bearings are as good as OEM, yet I have seen some of them hold up pretty well in strong running ported saws.
I'm hoping this one was a defect, and that most of them hold up much longer if good oil and mix ratio are used.
The 660s definitely seem to be more robust than the 440s, but the 440 is such a more useful all around size saw, and a well ported BB kit can run pretty darn well.
I'm hoping this one was a defect, and that most of them hold up much longer if good oil and mix ratio are used.
The 660s definitely seem to be more robust than the 440s, but the 440 is such a more useful all around size saw, and a well ported BB kit can run pretty darn well.
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MG porting
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Can't remember what post I was on when I was putting the big bore on my 660 clone and I'm not trying to side blind you MustangMike just wanted to show how well the crank holes up on the 660 with a mass amount of compression. 
this thing is a bare to pull over.lol
this thing is a bare to pull over.lol
MustangMike
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Post away, the more info the better!
MG porting
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Now if I were to build a 440 to get that much compression eh I would have to go with a OEM crank I think the clone crank shaft is comfortable at 175psi to 180psi but I've never really tried to push one much further than that.
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Mike, I don’t believe that there is a straight answer to your question.
OEM cranks should live longer because of superior raw materials/machining/quality control.
That includes metallurgy and production costs, etc...
I’d go OEM or equivalent (meteor pistons) on all reciprocating components. There is a reason people pay 10x the amount for an OEM crank.
OEM internals are cheap insurance that something won’t go BOOM too quickly.
It always comes back to that old expression “you get what you pay for”. I think it’s gonna be rare to find more AM components than OEM holding up after a lot of usage.
The more saws you build, the more likely a failure. Just how it is. It’s not a good feeling when one fails, not one bit. It’s cheaper for the OEM to build a more reliable component than to deal with warranty claims, hence the evolution of the 044 from 10 to 12mm cranks.
OEM cranks should live longer because of superior raw materials/machining/quality control.
That includes metallurgy and production costs, etc...
I’d go OEM or equivalent (meteor pistons) on all reciprocating components. There is a reason people pay 10x the amount for an OEM crank.
OEM internals are cheap insurance that something won’t go BOOM too quickly.
It always comes back to that old expression “you get what you pay for”. I think it’s gonna be rare to find more AM components than OEM holding up after a lot of usage.
The more saws you build, the more likely a failure. Just how it is. It’s not a good feeling when one fails, not one bit. It’s cheaper for the OEM to build a more reliable component than to deal with warranty claims, hence the evolution of the 044 from 10 to 12mm cranks.
MustangMike
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Good post Al. Now, if we could only get Meteor to make us some affordable cranks!!!
I was actually wondering if all the AM cranks are sourced from the same place, or if there are different manufacturers with different levels of performance.
I'll also try to put some time on some of these to see if some of them do hold up well. Hey, even OEM (especially used OEM) fail every now and then!
I was actually wondering if all the AM cranks are sourced from the same place, or if there are different manufacturers with different levels of performance.
I'll also try to put some time on some of these to see if some of them do hold up well. Hey, even OEM (especially used OEM) fail every now and then!
MustangMike
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If any of these AM cranks hold up anything close to my 10 mm 044, I'd be ecstatic!!!
MG porting
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Lol.
