What's on your bench?

drf256 said:

View attachment 184315

This is what’s on my bench. 1988 Yamaha 70 hp outboard block.

Snapped 9 of 14 bolts out of the head. Stainless to aluminum electrolysis for 32 years.

Got 3 out with welding nuts to them and heating block after 2 weeks of every penetrating oil known to mankind.

Another block is on its way.

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Bilge Rat said:

After a day of soaking the bolts in snake oil try a hand held impact, the one you hold with CCW tension and whack with a hammer.
They worked the best or broke the least bolts on japneeze bikes and saltwater outboards.
If nothing else you get to use a hammer on the offending unit.

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drf256 said:

Interested to see how you remove the ACC pump.

I assume you are doing the conversion to 87 specs. I find that they need 4 areas ground on:

The two stops
The choke plate
The area below-the choke plate will clear nozzle but rub there, blend the sharp edge.
The impulse port can use a chamfer, it doesn’t line up perfectly, so I use a chamfer by hand to V the outer portion.

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Tor R said:

thanks Al, good catch on the impulse channel!
I bought a 87 choke butterfly, but you're probleby right on that area too.

199 accelerator pump, I drilled a few wholes in the brass plugg, enough to get a little screw driver in, a bit twisting and out it came. Removed the trottle shaft and the acc pump was out.
The pump is a simple design, with the right tools (machinist) I belive its possible to make an oversized piston if there is to much wear in the carb, most of the times I belive we get a long way with a new piston & o-ring.

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drf256 said:

These just snap off deeper in the hole. I can actually get threaded portions out, only to see residual remaining. Impact has worked best, in little blips.

I’ve got another block on the way, but I’m still gonna try to give this one a shot. Next is an attempt at drilling and helicoils.

Either way, I ordered Stainless studs for the next block. No way this is gonna happen again.

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drf256 said:

I have 87 butterflies. I found they don’t work.

The easiest I’ve found is to center the donor 120/144 carb choke plate on the 198/9 plate and make a line on it with a sharpie (JMS scribe). Then file it flat on that area of the round to the line. The larger (than one would expect) opening when the choke plate is closed has no negative effect on starting, clears the nozzle, and will only bind where the little brass plug I mentioned above is proud.

The 87 plate didn’t work out for me. The slight difference in the carb makes it hit.

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drf256 said:

They run much better than 87’s do. They feel stronger for some reason.

Besides the additional work, I prefer them on a modded 262. For a stock saw, I’d stick with the 120/144.

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Stevetheboatguy said:

Careful with head studs. If you go that route you will have to lift the powerhead to remove the cyl head. Only a issue if you get a leak or blow a head gasket. But figured I'd give you a heads up. Been there before.


Steven

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drf256 said:

If there is room to pull the bolts out, how isnt there room to pull 2 piece head off studs?

I tought about the same, the lower cowl can be dropped with 4 bolts on this engine just enough to have full 90* bolt access.

Its these fuggin bolts that ruined my block.

Thank you for the help. Its greatly appreciated.

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Stump Shot said:

Have some Cross Performance ones, how many do you want?

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drf256 said:

They should have studded from the factory IMHO.

I found 2 blocks. One is an "enduro" that has no oil injection pump provision, the other is standard.

I'm told one cannot mix and match the bottom/crank portion of the block with the upper/cylinder portion because of the way they are machined. I guess its like crankcase halves on saws, sometimes one gets lucky and at other times they don't (like me in this case).

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Bilge Rat said:

If you find a good 130 consider grabbing it. They were strong little motors stock and can be modded to make some big power on a light boat.

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trooney said:

I wish peolle would clean their saws once in a while. Didnt even come from a tree company.
View attachment 183671 View attachment 183672

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drf256 said:

They run much better than 87’s do. They feel stronger for some reason.

Besides the additional work, I prefer them on a modded 262. For a stock saw, I’d stick with the 120/144.

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drf256 said:

It’s a 15’ side console Whaler. 70HP is the max the transom is rated at.

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