High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Cannon Bars

rattler

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No worries. Bruce has made it clear that we can all post links to any seller of goods. The only reason he is charging for signature ads is to get a little of what he is spending back.

No worries.
Good deal Thank you Mr Randy

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Toad22t

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I think the 24 supermini would even be alil lighter and balance on the 562 better than the other 24 lights. Only 1 way to know but it will cost money to find out!! Lol

Heres a 24" total on a 562 of Mike Lees showing balanceView attachment 32146

I have a 20" sugihara lw on my 562 done by rattler and some machine work by Mike Lee and it's alittle tank heavy. Once I get a chance I'll switch over my 24" sugihara off of my Rattler'd 371 and see the difference.
 

SawTroll

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Regarding the Cannon Supermini bars, I am comfortable with a 10t nose on the .325 bars, but not so much about 9t noses on the 3/8" ones?

Of course it is a matter of cutting speed (narrow tips slow things down) vs. neatness/weight vs. kickback protection, although the kickback thing basically is moot, as with chain. If you hold the saw properly and watch the upper part of the tip, you aren't getting any severe kickbacks anyway.
 

Redbull661

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50" on top 3/8
60" middle 3/8 have run 404 full skip (see vid)
41" bottom 404

no such thing as CAD. :)

 

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RI Chevy

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Looks like you got all the big ones covered Julian. You run 404 on all of them?
 

Greg Newman

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Surprised how well the Cannon lettering has stayed on various pics of the used bars shown. Mine wore completely off within its first few cuts.
 

Nutball

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50" on top 3/8
60" middle 3/8 have run 404 full skip (see vid)
41" bottom 404

no such thing as CAD. :)

I've always wondered at what length does it become an issue where too many wood chips fill the kerf before exiting preventing the teeth from cutting as much as they could and adding excessive friction. I also wonder if there is a best skip tooth spacing to bar length ratio to properly compensate for the extra chips in the way regardless of the engines power.
 

sawfun

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I've always wondered at what length does it become an issue where too many wood chips fill the kerf before exiting preventing the teeth from cutting as much as they could and adding excessive friction. I also wonder if there is a best skip tooth spacing to bar length ratio to properly compensate for the extra chips in the way regardless of the engines power.
Raker depth and pitch seem to have more to do with clearing chips than other factors I have found. .404 may cut better than 3/8 even if slower chain speed is a result. 1/2 chisel cuts much better, and sometimes faster, than .404 chisel on powerful geardrive saws. My 125 with 50" bar cuts better than my 101b that would need the rakers down so it could bite properly. The 101 just spins the chain much faster. Long bars in big pitchy fir have more of an issue of pitch and chips building up between the bar and chain on the underside of the front of the bar. It can easily lock up everything with the chain up to 1/4" or more separated from the bar. An over abundance of power and a bar that exits the far side of a log help against this buildup.
 

Skeans1

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4f28305471b51dcef67eba366267f466.jpg
42” semi skip 3/8’w on a 395
f60d15e9544e7acb8ba75a3b0ad6d043.jpg
60” full skip 3/8’s on a 395
463ef9d737f3d09bb6d8e8bfd671f4c2.jpg
Same bar and saw heck even the same chains
79202814a69ff2f925affbf952d4ec0a.jpg
32” semi skip on a 385


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Bigmac

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Surprised how well the Cannon lettering has stayed on various pics of the used bars shown. Mine wore completely off within its first few cuts.
Was yours a new black one? How long? The old silver ones held up well and they probably had more epa unfriendly paint! Lol some of the long bars don’t get much use, so they just haven’t made many cuts!
 

Bigmac

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Raker depth and pitch seem to have more to do with clearing chips than other factors I have found. .404 may cut better than 3/8 even if slower chain speed is a result. 1/2 chisel cuts much better, and sometimes faster, than .404 chisel on powerful geardrive saws. My 125 with 50" bar cuts better than my 101b that would need the rakers down so it could bite properly. The 101 just spins the chain much faster. Long bars in big pitchy fir have more of an issue of pitch and chips building up between the bar and chain on the underside of the front of the bar. It can easily lock up everything with the chain up to 1/4" or more separated from the bar. An over abundance of power and a bar that exits the far side of a log help against this buildup.
Well said, even if you have the power to run the bar/chain combo, if the bar doesn’t clear the end the chips can really build up on the top side, and if the chain stretches or starts to pinch the chips get under the chain then get stuck in the tip, the other problem is lack of bar oil when the chain lifts on the top side, it’s like the wood wipes the chain dry! If the bar clears the far side, no issues at all!
 

Greg Newman

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Was yours a new black one? How long? The old silver ones held up well and they probably had more epa unfriendly paint! Lol some of the long bars don’t get much use, so they just haven’t made many cuts!

Yes new black one and the paint came off just as fast as lettering did. It’s a 36”
 

Skeans1

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Yes new black one and the paint came off just as fast as lettering did. It’s a 36”

What is it being ran on? What type of wood as well? All three of my bars still have paint and lettering.


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