Tree Felling Technique Thread

Maybe some difference in our opinions is, I was not talking about time of infestation. I was talking 5 years after loss of all needles. I should of clarified. Which would be about 7-8 years after infestation depending how long the tree was able to hold out. The pine beetle larva actually girdle the tree so it dies from the top down. Not sure how much ponderosa pine you guys have up that way but, with its thick bark even in dry climates it rots in about the same time frame. Goes from being fairly good wood too super punky. Does the same if fire killed.
I know with the lodge pole down here once it checks its pretty much just good firewood at that point. Even the treated post and pole guys can't use it. Plus any blue fungus stain in the wood is a defect and it cannot be used for any structural lumber. But it is still seemingly sound wood.
We have spruce bud worm in some of our Douglas fir, tree will have ten green needles and be as green inside as a healthy tree. Still makes good lumber but really heavy firewood that you cannot burn for 2 years. Where I am at, not counting deciduous trees our forest are 90% 5 species of trees. Little more diversity west of the divide.
I am sure every species has its own thing going on with some variability to its geographic location. Just good things to know before you stick a saw in it.

Good discussion guys. With all the standing dead that’s having to be cleared techniques for testing the wood and getting them on the ground is invaluable info.

Having next to zero experience with them, I am intimidated by standing dead trees. So much so that I have a few that I’ve decided that Mother Nature can take them down for me. Just not worth the firewood too me.

XP_Slinger said:

Good discussion guys. With all the standing dead that’s having to be cleared techniques for testing the wood and getting them on the ground is invaluable info.

Having next to zero experience with them, I am intimidated by standing dead trees. So much so that I have a few that I’ve decided that Mother Nature can take them down for me. Just not worth the firewood too me.

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Dead ash everywhere. If it still has small branches on it I'll cut it. Aside from that I'm with you on letting mother nature handle it.

You want to leave one or two dead or crappy trees here and there as host homes for wildlife anyway. Can’t always look at the forest as a way to make $... you can make $ but if you want to log it again in the future you have to be considerate and leave seed/host trees.

Oh the many ways to skin a cat... I mean fell a tree. Getting it down safely is of course the number one priority. Spent the last week dropping dead ash trees at a fifteen acre property I used to manage. I wanted to take these trees down several years ago, but the owner wanted to leave them standing. Thought they would end up like the old hollowing out maples that were there from years prior. Unfortunately borer killed ash doesn't age the same. Stuffs been snapping off randomly. Even on calm sunny days. Sometimes chest height, sometimes twenty feet up. I don't like walking under the stuff at any time, let alone a windy day.

That being said, now that her daughter is making ready to get married on the property, I got the call to clear all the hazards. Now that it is good and dangerous. I exclusively use the open face, bore, trigger method for them. It is the safest possible way. Cutting the trigger you are already couple steps closer to being out of the kill zone. They start falling slowly and it allows me time to get out of the kill zone before the widow makers start raining down. I watched my friend who owns the local tree service almost get clobbered when a branch snapped off as soon as it started moving. Unfortunately he's an old dog who doesn't want to learn new tricks. Had he bore cut and released a trigger he'd of been several feet away from that branch instead of that branch being a mere couple inches from his head.

I also like it when the hinge stays attached. It moves so slower through the canopy, minimizes collateral damage on its way down, and lands softer minimizing damage to the landscape. Doesn't matter in a logging or firewood harvesting operation. Residential tree work on the other hand, all the collateral damage needs repaired. Any broken hangers in neighboring trees and I have to climb up and get them. Holes in ground need filled, etc. Time spent minimizing that damage is far less than time spent repairing said damage.



When less experienced people ask me to show them how to do things I make them watch a few youtube videos husqvarna put out.




There's some good info in that series, from making a felling plan, to notch and hinge techniques, an to felling the tree and bucking up. Understanding tension and compression. Understanding how not to get your saw stuck or head smacked with a spring pole. Stuff any pro should know, but a lot to potentially be learned by others. I fully utilize that information husqvarna so kindly put out with my superior dolkita saw The BC felling standard videos are a good watch as well.

I just watched all those videos. Nice refresher. Thanks for sharing.

Cat 525 said:

This is how bore cut our Walnut and oak! Thanks Wayne!

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DITTO!!

Cat 525 said:

Basically I just borin and try to keep the saw in the safe side of the tree! Those were on a Rocky slope so I guess borin on the low side and cut the tree all off but leave the outside edges holding! Van bore down to my cut on the outside edges but I always leave the last Edge holding opposite of the way the trees going to fall! I will try to post someone I'm on flat ground again on how I leave the points and you just always cut the last Point that's holding up the tree!

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You always keep in mind to leave enough flare root to keep the tree held up and not pinch the bar. Beginners will learn to respect what a saw will do when bore cutting hopefully without PAIN

XP_Slinger said:

Damn right!

I try to watch everything I can while I’m escaping. Could be moving toward danger if you’re not keeping an eye on things. This is why I clear and walk my route before the saw is even started.

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Nothing wakes you up like turning around and getting jambed up in a cuddly Gooseberry bush

huskyboy said:

You want to leave one or two dead or crappy trees here and there as host homes for wildlife anyway. Can’t always look at the forest as a way to make $... you can make $ but if you want to log it again in the future you have to be considerate and leave seed/host trees.

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Absolutely Mason. I’m not taking every tree worth some money out of my woods. Making money off my timber is a secondary goal to revitalizing my stand that hasn’t been logged in 40 years. Leaving a lot of nice trees standing.

XP_Slinger said:

And watch from a safe distance lol. Bad scenario unless you have the equipment to rectify the situation

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If the tree is just standing there you have no safe zone to stand in and when cutting the flares after the bore cut and the tree "Just Stands There" you might think about "Just Standing There Yourself" Until you are sure of Where Not to run.. I have had a few Burr oak that were so well balanced (Deceptive to the eye before sawing into it) they "Just Stood There" One of them was in a Pasture and thankfully no cows. Wind came up the next day That was 40 years ago and still remember the feeling well

Junk Meister said:

If the tree is just standing there you have no safe zone to stand in and when cutting the flares after the bore cut and the tree "Just Stands There" you might think about "Just Standing There Yourself" Until you are sure of Where Not to run.. I have had a few Burr oak that were so well balanced (Deceptive to the eye before sawing into it) they "Just Stood There" One of them was in a Pasture and thankfully no cows. Wind came up the next day That was 40 years ago and still remember the feeling well

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That feeling to me would be helpless. Dangerous situation for sure.

During the break in this nonstop rain, I tried bore cutting with the 362. Bounced like crazy with a 20” ES light. Filed the teeth, and no change. Swapped to a regular 20” ES, worked just fine. Why would that make a difference? The tips are the same profile and I used the same chain. A reduced kickback chain does seem to help. Who’d a thunk it!?!

Are the noses the same on each bar?

Cat 525 said:

Are the noses the same on each bar?

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Yep

XP_Slinger said:

Absolutely Mason. I’m not taking every tree worth some money out of my woods. Making money off my timber is a secondary goal to revitalizing my stand that hasn’t been logged in 40 years. Leaving a lot of nice trees standing.

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You have a nice stand that will provide for many years by the looks of it.

I've thought about taking a GOL course or the Trained Logger Certification (TLC). Idk cost but would be cool to get a small group together to take it at the same time.
http://www.newyorkloggertraining.org/certification#A

Marshy said:

You have a nice stand that will provide for many years by the looks of it.

I've thought about taking a GOL course or the Trained Logger Certification (TLC). Idk cost but would be cool to get a small group together to take it at the same time.
http://www.newyorkloggertraining.org/certification#A

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I would love to take that course.

Dustin4185 said:

During the break in this nonstop rain, I tried bore cutting with the 362. Bounced like crazy with a 20” ES light. Filed the teeth, and no change. Swapped to a regular 20” ES, worked just fine. Why would that make a difference? The tips are the same profile and I used the same chain. A reduced kickback chain does seem to help. Who’d a thunk it!?!

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Difference in weight or flexibility with the bars is all it could be then?

Kind of like loading a trailer to tongue heavy or too rear heavy. Makes it feel and react on the truck completely different.

redline4 said:

Difference in weight or flexibility with the bars is all it could be then?

Kind of like loading a trailer to tongue heavy or too rear heavy. Makes it feel and react on the truck completely different.

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I was thinking weight. Heavy gun vs light gun sorta thing maybe.

Dustin4185 said:

During the break in this nonstop rain, I tried bore cutting with the 362. Bounced like crazy with a 20” ES light. Filed the teeth, and no change. Swapped to a regular 20” ES, worked just fine. Why would that make a difference? The tips are the same profile and I used the same chain. A reduced kickback chain does seem to help. Who’d a thunk it!?!

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The light weight bars are sometimes not rigid enough for boring.