Foredom/Dremel for saw shop?

J. Loe · Feb 13, 2019

I mean I don’t really think I need a foredom
And I’d like to do simple work like muffler mods and such.

Looking for model numbers and attachments that you like.

Please let me know OPE
OPE, you’re the best.

huskyboy · Feb 13, 2019

J. Loe said:
I mean I don’t really think I need a foredom
And I’d like to do simple work like muffler mods and such.

Looking for model numbers and attachments that you like.

Please let me know OPE
OPE, you’re the best.

I’d pm Shaun about one of those knockoff handpieces he mods. I love mine and it’s pretty affordable and easy to get setup with a harbor freight foot motor.

srcarr52 · Feb 13, 2019

Hanging motors are nice but sometimes you still need a good old corded rotary tool. For simple muffler mods the HF corded beast would do you just fine.

J. Loe · Feb 13, 2019

Thanks gentlemen.

How’s this guy grab you?

J. Loe · Feb 15, 2019

Is this bs?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOREDOM-SR...041235&hash=item23b543c2aa:g:PJQAAOSwUVFcWJzG

J. Loe · Feb 15, 2019

How about this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4mm-6mm-11...hash=item41f91c8243:m:m0f7P6E_byMvDvl0HGriwvg

ManiacalMark · Feb 15, 2019

The SR motor is your best bet, but I would buy directly from Foredom or CC. You never know when one of those ebay shops decide to shut down or if they'll warranty anything.

huskihl · Feb 15, 2019

I like my harbor freight motor. So far it's cost about 50 cents per saw and it's like new. I wore out 2 dremels before that.

Al Smith · Feb 21, 2019

I've got 3 actual Dremels but 2 are hiding from me. I've been able to cut ports etc just about as good as likely a Foredom could do but certainly not quite as easily .The tool bits are a hodge podge of Dremel,industrial robot and dental tools but they all work .It's time consuming but port modifications are not a race ,I don't get paid for it and I'm not in a contest so time is not that important .
I kind of figured if those old timers could rework an engine using an assortment of lock smith files,chainsaw files in a 1/4" drill motor and sandpaper I could get-er-done with a Dremel .

J. Loe · Jul 27, 2019

I wanna reheat this old thread.

What, ope would you say are good burrs/bits for basic porting

Diamond for cylinder work?
Carbide for steel (mufflers etc)?

Any good links for a set up in general?

Al Smith · Jul 29, 2019

It's a choice because there are many options .For example Dremel makes high speed cutters that are tapered front to back at about 30 degrees and cut rather fast and don't load up like some burrs with aluminum .Relatively inexpensive too .Then keep in mind you don't need to run a rotary tool wide open all the time,it's not a race you know .Graytex does a decent job on the finish which actually works better than a mirror finish done with felt fobs and jewelers rouge but that's up to who ever is doing it .
I haven't reworked an engine in a couple of years .However when I did and could find all three Dremels at the same time I loaded different cutters maybe one with Craytex and alternated them .Some were long bits and by going through the exhaust port I could reach the transfer uppers .It can be done but it really works the end of your fingers and some times takes a lot of beer breaks .

J. Loe · Jul 29, 2019

Man I love that post.
Thank you sir.

mortalitool · Jul 29, 2019

J. Loe said:
I wanna reheat this old thread.

What, ope would you say are good burrs/bits for basic porting

Diamond for cylinder work?
Carbide for steel (mufflers etc)?

Any good links for a set up in general?

diamond ball for chamfering port edges.

Carbide burrs for everything else.

sanding mandrels
sand paper rolls
Pretty much everything cc specialties offers....

Wax on the carbides helps with surface finish and helps prevent loading up of the burrs when hogging aluminum.

J. Loe · Jul 29, 2019

mortalitool said:
diamond ball for chamfering port edges.

Carbide burrs for everything else.

sanding mandrels
sand paper rolls
Pretty much everything cc specialties offers....

Wax on the carbides helps with surface finish and helps prevent loading up of the burrs when hogging aluminum.

Lot to chew on there sir!
Thanks a lot!

Al Smith · Jul 29, 2019

I might add everybody has their own methods .Myself on the uppers I use sweeps and have never done "finger" ports .On either I suppose a ball cutter would be best to start them out and maybe a tapered bit as I already talked about might be better to shape them .It's whatever a person is comfortable with .Whatever you use you have to make certain you can control it else you could screw things up if it gets away from you .As a general rule a Dremel type doesn't have enough power to do that but a Foredom type probably does .

Foredom/Dremel for saw shop?

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

huskyboy

Sorta a husqvarna guy...

srcarr52

Shop rat, backyard slice cutter.

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

ManiacalMark

Pinnacle OPE Member

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big

Al Smith

Here For The Long Haul!

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

Al Smith

Here For The Long Haul!

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

mortalitool

aka Nick Stoeckel

J. Loe

Pinnacle OPE Member

Al Smith

Here For The Long Haul!

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