ECHO Echo, Echo, Echo

Nutball · Jan 8, 2019

I just couldn't figure out how I was measuring +2psi in a supposed vacuum system. I'd expect 0 or negative pressure. Next time I'll need to measure the pressure with that dust tube plugged. The saw seemed to run just slightly richer with the mixture holes plugged which suggests a vacuum system, but with the holes plugged the pressure rose slightly.

Piston Skirt · Jan 8, 2019

Nutball said:
I just couldn't figure out how I was measuring +2psi in a supposed vacuum system. I'd expect 0 or negative pressure. Next time I'll need to measure the pressure with that dust tube plugged. The saw seemed to run just slightly richer with the mixture holes plugged which suggests a vacuum system, but with the holes plugged the pressure rose slightly.

Well, I guess it might have something to do with engine having a pulse suction + blowback in inlet side, while fan gives a steady flow. In the end there might be some phenomenons like this.
Check how big the opening is under the carburetor - mixture holes will seem miniscule after this

Nutball · Jan 11, 2019

I was hoping to run tests today on a 352, but I've been sick. I thoroughly inspected it, but have yet to do a smoke test to help determine flow direction and location. I have found that it has a fan suction hole too that is likely bigger than the T, H&L holes combined. The adjustment holes are the only air inlet to the carb aside from minimal leakage the most of which is around the kill switch wires where they run over the fan housing. You can open the winter slot to let a lot more air in, but I was really surprised to find no holes specific for air intake.

I can't measure vacuum, but I can get an idea if there is negative pressure. I plan to test the pressure through the idle adjustment hole which only leaves the needle holes open. A test with the needle holes plugged, a test with them open and plugged while the fan duct is blocked, and I was going to try to supply boost from an air compressor, but strangely I couldn't get any pressure boost with the engine off, and the fan duct and needle holes mostly plugged. So, there is either a huge opening somewhere I missed which I think unlikely, or the air nozzle I used has an extremely low CFM rate.

I didn't check the 490 for other air inlet holes.

Piston Skirt · Jan 12, 2019

Nutball said:
I didn't check the 490 for other air inlet holes.

That's the half of the opening for intake air in 490/501. And I have to correct myself - 490 doesn't have intake silencer plastic anymore that was on CS-500.

Nutball · Jan 15, 2019

I still don't know what to think. I measured positive pressure in the 352 air box around 1-1.5psi, but a smoke test shows air being sucked into the carb adjustment holes. The duct to the fan does suck air out of the air box. I found no other intake holes other than the T, H, & L holes using smoke, but there is an opening, not an obvious duct, it would appear to hold an ignition wire on a version of the saw where the wire goes over the carb kinda like the 490 & 590. That opening both isn't a straight shot for good air injection, nor does it have (in my opinion) ideal ducting directing flywheel air into it, but it is exposed to a place where it can get air straight from the fan. The path to the air box is smaller than a pencil diameter. I don't think enough air could get in to cause positive pressure, but apparently its enough for the saw to run well even with the mixture holes plugged and the fan duct sucking air.

Next I'll pressure test my 2188 that does have air injection.

FergusonTO35 · Jan 21, 2019

The spark plug wire on my little CS-3000 finally crumbled apart. If anybody has a module with a good wire gimme a holler, I put up an ad for it.

ray benson · Jan 22, 2019

Junior Samples said:
I got two small Echos to get ready for the fall and winter. Would anyone have a service manual for the 351VL? Hoping if I canView attachment 137693 View attachment 137694 get a manual it would be close enough to the 302S. Sorry to expand all my pics but I can't see.

Did you ever find service manuals for the 302s and 351? If not send me a conversation.

FergusonTO35 · Jan 24, 2019

Got to fiddling with the CS-3000. I trimmed back some of the damaged wire and stuck the spark plug lead into it, fortunately the wire was still long enough to reach. The saw seems to start and run normally now. I have some good sections of copper and resistor spark plug wire in the scraps box. I wonder if I could just solder one of those onto the ignition module? Or, would the solder cause a voltage drop? Can you use copper core non-resistor wire on these solid state ignitions?

Nutball · Jan 24, 2019

I didn't know they used resistor wire, whatever that is, but I figure the voltage is so high, and being a pulse it can travel farther and more easily, so you could probably get away with a less than perfect wire and connections. Once I fixed a 661 that has the plug end spring break out. I just wrapped plain ol like 26AWG copper wire around the straight end of the spring where it goes through the insulation to contact the ignition wire (all this located under the boot) and I wrapped the other end around the plug. It works.

FergusonTO35 · Jan 25, 2019

Resistor wire is used in automotive applications to suppress radio frequency interference. OEM points ignitions usually require non-resistor wire as they typically dont have enough voltage to cause RFI problems. I've seen electronic small engine ignitions with both types.

Nutball · Jan 25, 2019

I wonder if this is a design flaw? I'll eventually get around to trying the clutch on backwards to see, but I'd think it wouldn't transfer torque well. Maybe they needed the weight of the clutch, but not the surface area for the amount of stock power?
2511t

Piston Skirt · Jan 26, 2019

Nutball said:
I wonder if this is a design flaw? I'll eventually get around to trying the clutch on backwards to see, but I'd think it wouldn't transfer torque well. Maybe they needed the weight of the clutch, but not the surface area for the amount of stock power?
2511t
View attachment 161357

Untighten and retighten the clutch. It somehow looks like it isn't fully on PTO threads. Don't have access to my unit now to check how it looks.

FergusonTO35 · Jan 26, 2019

I thought something looked off in that pic, but couldn't quite put my finger on it!

Nutball · Jan 26, 2019

I have another like it, not as bad, but bad enough. The clutches are firmly against the washer that stops it. Might need a thinner washer.

old 040 · Feb 3, 2019

Wanted to see if anyone here knows if a recoil assy off a CS 800p

DSC09046__82601.1484781856.1280.1280.JPG

will fit on the CS 8000 or the other way around?, here's a couple pics, first is a CS 800, 2nd is the 8000, look the same to me, but the IPL's don't state that they fit both models.

FergusonTO35 · Feb 3, 2019

Could just be a matter of Echo changing part numbers over the years, or minute changes in construction that dont preclude interchangeability.

Hoggwood · Feb 9, 2019

I managed to get a CS-1001VL running I had picked up a while back. I haven't had the time to monkey around with saws for a few months it seems. Ground strap issues where causing problems. Not too much mileage. I haven't had it in a log yet, but it pulls over tougher than my other one. Just a quick vid of it running. I will need to dial it in out in the bush. But, it seems to idle, throttle and oil like the whole lineup from the era were famous for.

old 040 · Feb 10, 2019

Hoggwood said:
I managed to get a CS-1001VL running I had picked up a while back. I haven't had the time to monkey around with saws for a few months it seems. Ground strap issues where causing problems. Not too much mileage. I haven't had it in a log yet, but it pulls over tougher than my other one. Just a quick vid of it running. I will need to dial it in out in the bush. But, it seems to idle, throttle and oil like the whole lineup from the era were famous for.

View attachment 164244 View attachment 164245

Looks nice Cory, I've always wanted to own, or at the very least, get to run the 1001, they just don't show up in my area...some day....lol

Mutley · Feb 28, 2019

For those of us in Australia; Bunnings have ranged in a few Echo saws! Real good news, after the collapse of AllPower as the national distributor

I'm guessing that now Briggs & Stratton are distributing Echo, they'll take the brand in a new direction (read into that "I'm hoping"!)
https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=echo chainsaw&redirectFrom=Any

lehman live edge slab · Mar 5, 2019

Where is the best place to get a muffler for a 2511t, a guy brought me one to tune and he had already watched a YouTube video on how to muffler mod it. Well he drilled a huge hole right through it and tried to tune the jets. I got it to run decent but I think it needs a new muffler with proper modifications and I could use a base carb setting also with the limiters already removed. Got it to run at about 2 1/2 turns out, told him personally I wouldn’t run it and we should get a new muffler and do it right. So what would a proper muffler mod be on this particular saw? Just pull screen and open factory hole up a little? Never really messed with any new echos.

ECHO Echo, Echo, Echo

Here For The Long Haul!

Super OPE Member

Here For The Long Haul!

Super OPE Member

Attachments

Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Pinnacle OPE Member

Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Super OPE Member

Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Pinnacle OPE Member

Here For The Long Haul!

Super OPE Member

Pinnacle OPE Member

Well-Known OPE Member

Live Action

Similar threads