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Rifle trigger pull technique?

FergusonTO35

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Uggh, this is going to be a long and difficult journey. This afternoon I took one of my .30-30's out for some casual offhand practice at 30 yards standing. On average I am creating about a six inch group. My body is fighting me every step of the way, no way am I going to disrespect a game animal with that kind of inaccuracy. Sitting with a bipod I can always do much better so that is going to be the only kind of hunting I do this year.

Seems like the only real way I'm going to make any progress is thousands of rounds practice with my Henry .22. Perhaps I can develop proper muscle memory or find a trigger pull technique that works for my numb fingers.
 

Fresch

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Not good man, hate to hear that.
Someone needs to make a clamp on thumb actuated trigger think that would work for you? Kinda like the thumb safety on a 1911.
 

FergusonTO35

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I think thumb triggers were something of a trend on high end rifles decades ago. Some trap shooters use a trigger that fires on release rather than pull.

The last group I fired yesterday had a few shots in the black (2" circle), so a broken clock is still right twice a day. If I can get practiced enough to where I could put them all in three inches at 50 yards I would be content with that, anything longer I would use a scope.
 

FergusonTO35

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Did some more shooting yesterday. I modified my trigger pull technique to be similar to how I shoot my Glocks and Browning Hi-Power. I shape my trigger finger like a fish hook and use the rear portion of the uppermost joint to press the trigger, taking care not to let any other part of the finger touch the gun. Also, I leaned back slightly as match shooters do. The results weren't pretty but alot more predictable, I was able to call every flyer. I did make a nice little group at the very top of the black when everything worked right, so I guess I am slowly moving in the right direction.
 

FergusonTO35

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Ok, here is a typical example of my shooting. This was at 120 yards on a calm day, sitting down with a bipod. The targets on the left are from my Howa 1500 .257 Roberts, a bona fide sub-MOA rifle. The targets on the left are from the new Remington 700 6.5 Creedmoor.

The very first group fired was the upper left with the .257. Second group was with the 6.5 on the upper right. Third was the 6.5 on the lower right. Finally, we have the embarassment that is the lower left group with the .257. So, you can see how I am good for about 7-8 solid minute of deer rounds, then time to hang it up.

For my purposes, its good enough I suppose. I would like to get better though, especially given all the effort I put into casting and reloading.
 

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Fresch

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At 120 yards., we get ~50yrds. here, your doing pretty good go get some dinner with those groups; you have nothing to worry about! Well unless you also have a case of BUCK Fever! ;)
 

FergusonTO35

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Thanks bro. Last two deer were precise, one shot kills. One with a .30-30 at 85 yards, next one with the .257 at 100. So, the blind squirrel can find a nut when it counts I 'spose.
 
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FergusonTO35

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I had a rare moment sans wife and baby during the daytime today so I took the 6.5 out for a few rounds. Once again, 120 yards off a bipod. Interestingly, I was making nice round groups but they were all around 2" left. Don't know if the POI is moving as the barrel breaks in or I'm doing something differently (more likely). I moved the windage over an inch to compensate, so if POI returns to normal or remains where it is I'll only be an inch off either way.

One thing is for sure, to shoot decently with any gun under the sun I have to take many, many rounds to get accustomed to it. Ordinarily it's a few years before I can get consistent results with one. I've been shooting my Glock 19 and 26 since 2014, and it was at least 2016 when I finally figured out the magic combination of grip, trigger pull, front and rear sight combination, and bullet/powder that works for me. Fortunately, that usually means I can become accustomed to a similar gun much faster. Later when I got my Glock 42 I took right to it no problem.
 
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Trigger manipulation is different for everyone. One of the biggest issues I have seen was people squeezing with their entire hand. With a traditional stock rifle (not an AR or variant with pistol style grip) your firing hand should be barely more than resting on the stock. Not loose, but not “gripping” it. This will allow you to manipulate the trigger without having a tense hand. Its easier to concentrate on moving specific muscles when your entire hand isn’t tensed. The other issue is the trigger finger movement itself. Everyone wants to do the ‘hook’ on the trigger, and that isn’t necessarily the best. If you look at how your finger moves, the tip of your finger moves in an arc. You can’t force it to pull straight back. Knowing that makes a difference. This is why we teach a slow steady trigger squeeze, it allows you to compensate for the arc your finger moves in. Some people manipulate the trigger with the tip of their finger, some use the pad, others lay the joint over the trigger. I have seen people with large hands go all the way to the mid point of their 2nd “pad” and have excellent trigger control. Try moving your finger to different places on the trigger and see what works.

Breathing is a key component. Controling it isn’t natural. Learning your natural breathing cycle will assist in finding your ‘sweet spot’ of a natural respiratory pause. Some people don’t have a pause between breaths. These individuals need to learn where their slowest point is and capitalize on that. Yes, you can teach yourself to slow down breathing, but, the bodies natural response to slowed breathing or holding your breath is one of “panic”. The fine motor skills are first to go and fine motor skills is what we are concentrating on.

With your fingers being numb or reduced sensation, you will have a more difficult time mastering the feel of consistent trigger manipulation. Don’t let this dissuade or discourage you! Its still possible to “teach” your finger to do what you want it to. Consistency is key. When learning trigger manipulation, I prefer to fire 1 round and verify where it impacted. Binos or a spotting scope is easiest. Once you get a good shot, think about everything you did on that shot, how everything felt and then duplicate it. If your next round is off target, analyze what was different between the 2 shots.

As previously stated, dry firing just WORKS. Best way to teach a controlled trigger manipulation is to get into a good prone position, nice and solid, and balance a spend cartidge on the end of the barrel. Now squeeze the trigger. The cartidge should fall off when the firing pin strikes, not before. You’ll need some one to help you with this.

I taught many, many Marines to dry fire at a live target; the TV. This was more for handguns and rapid target acquisition for AR platform/shotguns. Once you have your draw from holster, stance and sight alignment down pat, you ensure you have an empty/cleared weapon, fire up the TV and watch the news. Everytime they pan from one newscaster to another you draw, acquire and dry fire. Its more difficult to do with a traditional rifle and doesn’t fit THIS application, but it is quite effective for fine tuning pistol shooting and shotgun skills.

Just my $0.02
 

FergusonTO35

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Trigger manipulation is different for everyone. One of the biggest issues I have seen was people squeezing with their entire hand. With a traditional stock rifle (not an AR or variant with pistol style grip) your firing hand should be barely more than resting on the stock. Not loose, but not “gripping” it. This will allow you to manipulate the trigger without having a tense hand. Its easier to concentrate on moving specific muscles when your entire hand isn’t tensed. The other issue is the trigger finger movement itself. Everyone wants to do the ‘hook’ on the trigger, and that isn’t necessarily the best. If you look at how your finger moves, the tip of your finger moves in an arc. You can’t force it to pull straight back. Knowing that makes a difference. This is why we teach a slow steady trigger squeeze, it allows you to compensate for the arc your finger moves in. Some people manipulate the trigger with the tip of their finger, some use the pad, others lay the joint over the trigger. I have seen people with large hands go all the way to the mid point of their 2nd “pad” and have excellent trigger control. Try moving your finger to different places on the trigger and see what works.

Breathing is a key component. Controling it isn’t natural. Learning your natural breathing cycle will assist in finding your ‘sweet spot’ of a natural respiratory pause. Some people don’t have a pause between breaths. These individuals need to learn where their slowest point is and capitalize on that. Yes, you can teach yourself to slow down breathing, but, the bodies natural response to slowed breathing or holding your breath is one of “panic”. The fine motor skills are first to go and fine motor skills is what we are concentrating on.

With your fingers being numb or reduced sensation, you will have a more difficult time mastering the feel of consistent trigger manipulation. Don’t let this dissuade or discourage you! Its still possible to “teach” your finger to do what you want it to. Consistency is key. When learning trigger manipulation, I prefer to fire 1 round and verify where it impacted. Binos or a spotting scope is easiest. Once you get a good shot, think about everything you did on that shot, how everything felt and then duplicate it. If your next round is off target, analyze what was different between the 2 shots.

As previously stated, dry firing just WORKS. Best way to teach a controlled trigger manipulation is to get into a good prone position, nice and solid, and balance a spend cartidge on the end of the barrel. Now squeeze the trigger. The cartidge should fall off when the firing pin strikes, not before. You’ll need some one to help you with this.

I taught many, many Marines to dry fire at a live target; the TV. This was more for handguns and rapid target acquisition for AR platform/shotguns. Once you have your draw from holster, stance and sight alignment down pat, you ensure you have an empty/cleared weapon, fire up the TV and watch the news. Everytime they pan from one newscaster to another you draw, acquire and dry fire. Its more difficult to do with a traditional rifle and doesn’t fit THIS application, but it is quite effective for fine tuning pistol shooting and shotgun skills.

Just my $0.02

:number_one:
 

Slacker

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I use three techniques:

1. I make sure that I am pressing the trigger STRAIGHT to the rear.
Basically, right down the centerline of the butt stock. That minimizes left/right movement.

2. Dry fire. Find a press that results in little to no movement of the front sight.
Repeat it until that is the only way you know how.

3. Follow through. Many rifle shooters disregard this important aspect.
Its easy to see how important follow thru is in golf, tennis and pool.
Shooting is no exception.
 

Larry B

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Back when I shot black powder competition like most the other guys I bought a RWS48 air rifle to practice with. Gun is as heavy as a regular rifle and has an excellent trigger and decent sights. You can do real rifle practice in the basement or back yard. Pellets are quiet and cheap
 

FergusonTO35

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I use three techniques:

1. I make sure that I am pressing the trigger STRAIGHT to the rear.
Basically, right down the centerline of the butt stock. That minimizes left/right movement.

2. Dry fire. Find a press that results in little to no movement of the front sight.
Repeat it until that is the only way you know how.

3. Follow through. Many rifle shooters disregard this important aspect.
Its easy to see how important follow thru is in golf, tennis and pool.
Shooting is no exception.

Thanks, will work on that.
 

FergusonTO35

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Back when I shot black powder competition like most the other guys I bought a RWS48 air rifle to practice with. Gun is as heavy as a regular rifle and has an excellent trigger and decent sights. You can do real rifle practice in the basement or back yard. Pellets are quiet and cheap

Yes, one of those has been on the list for years. Other guns keep cutting in line though!!
 

Larry B

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My off hand shooting improved dramatically when I started practicing a couple times a week with the pellet gun. Of course the eyes have let me down so competitive shooting is a thing of the past.
 

alleyyooper

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Make your own snap caps. Most rifles like 30-30 and others can be made with erasers for maniacal pencils you buy at a place Staples.
Shot gun huls require a bit more. Punch out the old primer an dfill the hole with rubbeized type cauk.


:D Al
 

Slacker

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Make your own snap caps. Most rifles like 30-30 and others can be made with erasers for maniacal pencils you buy at a place Staples.
Shot gun huls require a bit more. Punch out the old primer an dfill the hole with rubbeized type cauk.


:D Al


As a self diagnosed dryfire addict, I can assure you that most modern firearms can be dry fired daily with no harm.
Some rimfire firearms are the exception, due to the design.
For a modern center fire rifle, I would not waste my time on snap caps.
No benefit.
 
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