HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

tickbitintn · Oct 2, 2018

heimannm said:
I have a 345 that came in a batch of saws last October. I went through it over the winter and generally like it as a small limbing saw but I have repeated failure of the 503 93 21 01 pump piston...actually the plastic worm gear on the pump piston.

Any ideas on what I can do to make the oiler last longer?

Mark

I think that is the same setup on the 350 and I have never had any issues with one of them oiling...
Interested in what you might find ...

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

PogoInTheWoods · Oct 3, 2018

tickbitintn said:
I think that is the same setup on the 350

Different animals. And the 503 93 21 01 for the 340 and 345 has been replaced by a new version 540 05 79-01..., maybe due to failure issues? Would also be interested in any distinct differences between the two.

heimannm · Oct 3, 2018

The part I got last time (and this time) was in fact 540 05 79-01. The first one I got off e-Bay way a no brand part so when it failed I assumed it was because of a cheap part. I asked the owner of the local Husqvarna shop where I bought the last two about my failures and he did not have any good suggestions other than greasing the parts when I installed them.

Mark

PogoInTheWoods · Oct 4, 2018

I did notice nearly a $7.00 price drop for the 540 05 79-01 vs. the earlier version. Not sure how that could possibly make it better even with lots of extra grease.

And speaking of oil pumps, I ran into a weird issue today when installing the oil pump and worm gear on a 372xp using one of the nicer aftermarket cases. I rebuilt the pump and the pump shaft spun freely until I bolted it onto the case. Didn't realize it until installing the worm drive which basically just screwed into place and then stopped solid. Took the worm back off and the piston wasn't budging. Pulled the pump and it spun freely again. Loosen the top screw just a hair and the pump spins. Tighten it back down and it doesn't. So evidently either the pump body warped or the case machining is off to the extent that the pump body flexes just enough to bind the shaft when it's torqued into place. The current fix is red Loctite and not torquing the screw all the way down, but after thinking about it I'm leaning toward using a thin washer as a shim between the case and pump body with a little Dirko to seal it up since the threads go all the way through the case. Glad I realized what was going on before getting it all back together just to have an immediate worm drive meltdown.

justoldsaws · Oct 11, 2018

Just added this to my Husky herd, man there a big saw. Pics doesn't do its size justice.
From the serial was it made 1999, 19th week?

justoldsaws · Oct 12, 2018

Some better pics in the daylight.
Makes my 281XP look small.

Dub11 · Oct 14, 2018

justoldsaws said:
Some better pics in the daylight.
Makes my 281XP look small.

View attachment 145246 View attachment 145247 View attachment 145248 View attachment 145249

Makes that 281 look like a climbing saw lol.

Marshy · Oct 16, 2018

Fellas, my 394 rattled the muffler nuts lose and I lost them while milling. They were an acorn nut but unsure if they were OEM. Does anyone know if they are a regular nut or supposed to be a locking nut? Any idea what threads they are?

cowroy · Oct 16, 2018

Marshy said:
Fellas, my 394 rattled the muffler nuts lose and I lost them while milling. They were an acorn nut but unsure if they were OEM. Does anyone know if they are a regular nut or supposed to be a locking nut? Any idea what threads they are?

I’m not sure what size they are , but when mine vibrated off I replaced them with lock nuts from Home Depot I think. No more vibrating off then. Obviously not a regular nylon lock nut, but I’ve heard them called airplane nuts.

Marshy · Oct 16, 2018

Quite sure it's a M6 bolt. Probably going to take the shotgun approach and just go buy whatever pitch M6 cone lock nuts they have. I see they go for about $2.50 a piece on Ebay. I should be able to buy every variation of M6 lock nut at Lows for the same money. Pitch looked course to me so like 1.0 or larger.

Wolverine · Oct 16, 2018

Marshy said:
Fellas, my 394 rattled the muffler nuts lose and I lost them while milling. They were an acorn nut but unsure if they were OEM. Does anyone know if they are a regular nut or supposed to be a locking nut? Any idea what threads they are?

Oem are a partially split locking nut. I can provide a pic when I get home. Never lost one, even through lots of milling.

longleaf · Nov 6, 2018

I have a good running 298 and a 288 lite that is in good shape other than it could use a piston. I was thinking about getting one of them ported. Just wondering if anyone one had preferences on the ported versions of these saws. I do have a ported 394 so the 298 seems redundant but I do like that saw.

ranchdadmike · Nov 6, 2018

longleaf said:
I have a good running 298 and a 288 lite that is in good shape other than it could use a piston. I was thinking about getting one of them ported. Just wondering if anyone one had preferences on the ported versions of these saws. I do have a ported 394 so the 298 seems redundant but I do like that saw.

I’ve got a pair of 288s that were ported by @rattler and I love them.

longleaf · Nov 6, 2018

I was kind of leaning towards the 288 since I already have a 394 for long bars. I ran @Onan18 s 2100 and 288 both ported at Randys but the set ups were vastly different. Not sure what the bar length was on the 2100 but it was way longer than my 42. the 288 was wearing a much shorter bar so it was hard to see how much difference there was between them. The 288 seems alot more user friendly.

forestfarmer · Nov 6, 2018

Is anyone able to elaborate on piston that would be needed? Stamp is kolben i think 004++ 1C top is denoted A. Thank you new around here trying to get a project from a box to a working husky. Thank you very much.

Dub11 · Nov 7, 2018

forestfarmer said:
Is anyone able to elaborate on piston that would be needed? Stamp is kolben i think 004++ 1C top is denoted A. Thank you new around here trying to get a project from a box to a working husky. Thank you very much.

Most of your Meteor pistons are marked AB.

So just avoid a C piston if for some off chance you come across one.

Onan18 · Nov 7, 2018

longleaf said:
I was kind of leaning towards the 288 since I already have a 394 for long bars. I ran @Onan18 s 2100 and 288 both ported at Randys but the set ups were vastly different. Not sure what the bar length was on the 2100 but it was way longer than my 42. the 288 was wearing a much shorter bar so it was hard to see how much difference there was between them. The 288 seems alot more user friendly.

The 2100 was wearing a 42" .404 bar and chain, 288 had a 24" 3/8 setup.

forestfarmer · Nov 7, 2018

Is it an a cylinder than? As was marked on the top of cylinder or a c cylinder as was marked near the base of cylin

der? Could you let me know what you see?

longleaf · Nov 7, 2018

Onan18 said:
The 2100 was wearing a 42" .404 bar and chain, 288 had a 24" 3/8 setup.

Thanks for some reason I thought that bar was longer. It sure looks cool being orange and blue. Got a 42 3/8 on mine in stock form.

Dub11 · Nov 7, 2018

forestfarmer said:
Is it an a cylinder than? As was marked on the top of cylinder or a c cylinder as was marked near the base of cylinView attachment 149250 View attachment 149252 View attachment 149253 der? Could you let me know what you see?

I'd say that an A from the markings on top.

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