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Hutzl stihl 390 replacement engine question

stihl_head1982

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The guy that has the 029 I converted to a 390 w/Huztl P&C loves it, and he would not have paid the price for OEM parts, so as long as you are honest with your customer, the rest of it is knowing your customer.
TROOF!
Hutzl has its quality problems. That is well known by now. Every lot is not the same as the last as far as quality. I have some units out that are some of the first and they are tough as a pine knot.
The last one I purchased however was not. The crank bearings died in less than 6 tanks. We backed up to punt -- replaced with high quality bearings and an used OEM crank. Even still I'm willing to try these parts -- I will just make adjustments to compensate.
 

cobey

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20170424_211836.jpg
To pooped to test it but it runs
And oils, I'll try to run it in wood tomorrow, it sounds strong
But didn't rev it hard in fear of
Sending the chincom bearing
To an early death
 

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cobey

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I ran it in some Wood, cut a few cookies
It runs pretty good, the mufflers opened up pretty good so the idle was figety
I think it will be better when it's broken in, just a little bite from timing but not bad
 

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MustangMike

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Good thread for me as I have an 029s that is getting a FarmerTech 039 P & C.
Thanks for the tips!


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That is what I did. The orig bearing were good, so I left them alone, but used FT P&C (including their rings) and seals. Did a muff mod and timing advance, and it ran decent. (Great for the $).
 

cobey

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That is what I did. The orig bearing were good, so I left them alone, but used FT P&C (including their rings) and seals. Did a muff mod and timing advance, and it ran decent. (Great for the $).

The engine in this saw was toast, the rod bearing came apart and went up the
Transfers ruined the p and c
I bought the 77 dollar hutzl
Complete motor but put 13 dollars
Worth of caber rings in it :)
 

cobey

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If it is an 029 it will have the short stroke piston in the oil pump. You can get a cheap Chinese long stroke pump for a 390 from Ebay. It DOUBLES the oil flow. From memory, the stroke increase is from .4mm to .88mm.
Thanks for the info :)
Im gonna sell it with a 16" bar
It's oiling like crazy now
 

cobey

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Put it threw a heat cycle tonight
It seems to be getting a little more compression. Checked the crank for
Endplay
 

Rascals

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I know, I know, but use the hutzl stuff....I just rebuilt 390 and used the hutzl stuf, runs great.....I know a lot of people have mentioned the c-clips, I have never had a problem yet, I am sure I will eventually, but not yet....

Like another guy said the decompression valves are 100% bunk, they won't even close once the saw is started.....


I know some say use OEM this and that, but if you are trying to rebuild and sell saws, to make any money ou got to try the "Chinese" stuff....he'll once you put your couple hours time in a rebuild, the profit margin drops .....

I called about oem parts todat and wow for prices given I def could get a new saw. What A/M places are you using w success regularly?
 

Terry Syd

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I called about oem parts todat and wow for prices given I def could get a new saw.

LOL! you should check out the prices in Australia. The dealers at the local Stihl shop know me by name, but I hate walking in the place as I know I'm going to get skinned alive. I'm rebuilding a mate's 064 so that it has a de-comp. I ordered a 660 de-comp for it and the price is A$35.

There is another thread on fixing up these POS saws. They can be made to be respectable runners on the cheap, but you have to know what they need. A nylon mesh filter will bump up the power a fair bit (the stock filter is like stuffing a sock in the carb) - it is a cheap fix to a crappy filter (I built my own). I like the pop-up piston that was made available for the engine (top manufacturing), but I suggest you use a 390 jug that has a de-comp! If you think a stock 039 can bite...

Here's a link to that other thread - http://opeforum.com/threads/ms390-039-pop-up-piston.9517/
 

MustangMike

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I converted a 029 to a 390 with the Huztl kit. Sold it to a guy (cheap) 2 years ago. Still runs well, it is his primary firewood saw. A muff mod and timing advance and he loves it!
 

Rascals

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I converted a 029 to a 390 with the Huztl kit. Sold it to a guy (cheap) 2 years ago. Still runs well, it is his primary firewood saw. A muff mod and timing advance and he loves it!
That's good! I found an oem one cheap today but still going to have to remove the carb limiters from what I hear. Also mod the muff a little bit. What was the carb setting you ended up using? Luckily these are just for tinkering right now since just got a new Makita this weekend at NYS Woodsmans Field Days!
 

MustangMike

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Almost always when a do a muff mod + remove limiters I start with the Lo 1 turn out and the Hi about 1 + 1/8 turn out, then fine tune from there. About 1/2 the time, no further tuning is needed. Just make sure when you hit it the 1st time that it is 4 stroking, otherwise open up the Hi some more.

The 046 D I ported and put in the wood today liked the Hi right there, and the Lo about 1/8 turn tighter.
 

Wood Doctor

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MustangMike will love this report. I brought a 390 (310 upgraded) to the field last Sunday along with my 361. The 361 balked at starting so I set it aside for awhile as a spoiled brat. I picked up the 390 and it started normally on the third pull (two chokes and one fast idle pull). I finished the whole job with the 390.

Then I when back to the 361 and she started as if she was jealous. Sometimes these saws act just like children.:rolleyes:
 

Rascals

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Almost always when a do a muff mod + remove limiters I start with the Lo 1 turn out and the Hi about 1 + 1/8 turn out, then fine tune from there. About 1/2 the time, no further tuning is needed. Just make sure when you hit it the 1st time that it is 4 stroking, otherwise open up the Hi some more.

The 046 D I ported and put in the wood today liked the Hi right there, and the Lo about 1/8 turn tighter.
Thanks! I'll be sure to start there and see what happens. Got a 036 free today so I'll be messing w that one next and see what I can come up w.. when you said ported did you mean the exhaust or the cylinder?
 

MustangMike

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I do a little minor port work, no machining or anything. Depending on the saw and the #s, I often lower the intake, make sure the transfers look OK (On AM jugs they often need some work, not usually on OEM), I raised one exhaust, but due to where the upper transfer was, but usually I do nothing or minimal stuff to the exhaust.
 

Rascals

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I do a little minor port work, no machining or anything. Depending on the saw and the #s, I often lower the intake, make sure the transfers look OK (On AM jugs they often need some work, not usually on OEM), I raised one exhaust, but due to where the upper transfer was, but usually I do nothing or minimal stuff to the exhaust.
My plan is to do minimal for now and see how it works out. Still want a reliable saw so don't want to over due it. So many people do different things. The new cylinder is OEM so I hope it's decent. To many aftermarket w not much knowledge out there but endless days of searching online. Seems this forum is a little more reputable instead of I heard stories.
 
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