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Chain grinding and filing thread

paragonbuilder

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How does your square file hold up when cutting wood that is dirty? I have noticed that the square is really for felling and cutting trees that are clean and dirt free. I and others have noticed that square filed chains don't stay sharp as long as round filed chains in dirty wood. Just mentioning this.

I found the opposite Jeff. My square work grind lasts longer for me than even semi chisel does.
Perhaps if I had sharper angles it would dull quicker. Works for me.
 

paragonbuilder

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Holy cow a simngton costs a grand? And there's no China made square grinders competing with it at all. I have an idea, but need an answer first. Does the grinder need to swing into the cut in order to clear the straps or could it approach straight like if the spindle was on a slider rather than a hinge?

Please paint me a better picture of your question.
My silvey has a slide that brings the chain into the grinder
 

Wolverine

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Deets066

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Holy cow a simngton costs a grand? And there's no China made square grinders competing with it at all. I have an idea, but need an answer first. Does the grinder need to swing into the cut in order to clear the straps or could it approach straight like if the spindle was on a slider rather than a hinge?


RS 2 is on a slide
 

angelo c

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I think the biggest issue is trying to find a decent grinder without having to refinance house or take out a home equity line just to buy it. Not to many guys on here can afford a Silvey or the other expensive grinders.
But I am very interested in this thread.

Jeff,
IMHO...its the Indian not the arrow. an ATOPS square filer in the hands of a good "indian" will turn out a great chain where a awesome grinder in the hands of a newbie will take some time to learn no matter what.
what am I trying to say ?
well... a sharp chain is a journey well worth embarking on but its rarely a short trip.
also there are so many variables to the wood, type, condition and size to each of our supply that changes everything. I wish I had more use for my RS2. but alas I get more swamp drug mud caked junk that I rarely use a saw set up square...lot of my cuts are Semi-chisel. my next big saw will be set up in .404 as that is the last stop on the "sharp" journey for me.
 

huskyboy

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Jeff,
IMHO...its the Indian not the arrow. an ATOPS square filer in the hands of a good "indian" will turn out a great chain where a awesome grinder in the hands of a newbie will take some time to learn no matter what.
what am I trying to say ?
well... a sharp chain is a journey well worth embarking on but its rarely a short trip.
also there are so many variables to the wood, type, condition and size to each of our supply that changes everything. I wish I had more use for my RS2. but alas I get more swamp drug mud caked junk that I rarely use a saw set up square...lot of my cuts are Semi-chisel. my next big saw will be set up in .404 as that is the last stop on the "sharp" journey for me.
Well written. Use the right tool for the job.
 

brshephard

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How does your square file hold up when cutting wood that is dirty? I have noticed that the square is really for felling and cutting trees that are clean and dirt free. I and others have noticed that square filed chains don't stay sharp as long as round filed chains in dirty wood. Just mentioning this.

If you have a round chain and a square chain ground in such a way that they both cut the same speed, the square chain will outlast the round.
Round grind is less efficient and requires more aggressive angles to cut the same speed. A good example of this is off the roll RS. Look at how the working corner sticks out unsupported. Now compare that to RSL with no side plate hook and a conservative top plate angle.
They cut roughly the same speed.

So when someone tells you square dulls quicker, it likely does, but they are comparing it to a 7/32 round filed chain that is quite a bit slower.

Here is my work grind
KIMG0444.JPG
Note the underside top plate angle. It's about 20°, real aggressive. It lasts me about as long as factory grind RS.
If I was to cut dirty wood I would relax my angles a bit, if that didn't work I would go straight to semi chisel.
 

Wilhelm

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Dolmar 099 branded Oregon loop, Stihl round file 4.8mm diameter, free hand.

Before
DSC07931.JPG

After
DSC07932.JPG DSC07933.JPG

Same tooth.

Non smart phone 5 megapixel camera set to macro, zoomed and cropped picture for convenience.

I need to get a new 4.8mm file, this one is fairly dull.
 
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RedFir Down

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Best current value I know of on a good, basic grinder. No built in light. No 'down angle'. But otherwise, a full-sized Tecomec grinder and wheels.

Philbert

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...670400?hash=item58ec206e40:g:nu0AAOSwySFZfiXE
All in all a nice looking grinder. Currently I'm using a Oregon 511A to grind the cutters. It's been a good grinder, I bought it used and I have sharpened 100's of chains, if not over a thousand chains with it. I use borazon wheel's on it.
Currently I have been doing rakers in my chain vice with a file.
Would you recommend this grind for me to be my raker grinder? I ask because I know you know these grinders like the back of your hand.
Thank you.
 

RI Chevy

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Jeff,
IMHO...its the Indian not the arrow. an ATOPS square filer in the hands of a good "indian" will turn out a great chain where a awesome grinder in the hands of a newbie will take some time to learn no matter what.
what am I trying to say ?
well... a sharp chain is a journey well worth embarking on but its rarely a short trip.
also there are so many variables to the wood, type, condition and size to each of our supply that changes everything. I wish I had more use for my RS2. but alas I get more swamp drug mud caked junk that I rarely use a saw set up square...lot of my cuts are Semi-chisel. my next big saw will be set up in .404 as that is the last stop on the "sharp" journey for me.
I hear you sir. Understood. Just looking for some good blood lines to start with.
 

Philbert

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Would you recommend this grind for me to be my raker grinder?
Very similar to your 511A. If I wanted a basic grinder, and did not need the tilt feature, this is the one I would buy hands down over the clones.

The newer Oregon grinders have a nicer voice, the tilt feature, the light, and a wheel wear adjustment feature. I would choose that one if not price sensitive.

Philbert
 

XP_Slinger

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Good thread. One lesson I have learned in square filing is that having a good chain vice is a necessity for achieving uniform results when filing by hand. A tooth that rocks up even a little bit will screw up your angles and in compensating for it you’re not building muscle memory for consistent file strokes. I’m a newb at this, but moving the chain to a vice helped me immensely
 
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CR888

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Anyone like Hi-tooth chisel chain? I had some Stihl .404 that cut quite nice. I suppose chain selection is pretty important for the racer, many guys over here don't mind the softer metals in the Chinesium chain to get really sharp.
 

Armbru84

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Anyone like Hi-tooth chisel chain? I had some Stihl .404 that cut quite nice. I suppose chain selection is pretty important for the racer, many guys over here don't mind the softer metals in the Chinesium chain to get really sharp.

That’s not to easy to find these days...will buy some if you have some. [emoji51]
 
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