High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Tsumura light 16” or 18”

Reedo

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I’m looking for a 16” or possibly 18” lightweight bar to run on a MMWS 261.
I would like to try Tsumura light.
Can anyone possibly point me in the right direction to get my hands on one of these? I have found plenty of reference to Husky small mount Tsumura but very little on a light 3003 Stihl mount bar.
Should I stick to .325 or go 3/8?
 

Dub11

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@fordf150 would be the man to call. And the .325 or 3/8s debate depends on what you would be cutting. Are you gonna be limbing clean stuff the maybe .325. If your gonna be around dirty stuff or bucking them 3/8s for durability and chip clearance.

Or maybe just match what you already have.
 

Ryan Browne

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In 16" or 18" bar lengths a ported 261 will definitely pull either .325 or 3/8 very well. Personally I like the seat of the pants torque feel of the smaller .325 7 pin sprocket. It's also considerably smoother feeling and less grabby for limbing. But just like dub11 says, for bucking dirty wood 3/8 has a big durability advantage plus being quicker and easier to sharpen.
 

Reedo

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It will be used for both limbing and bucking up smaller stuff, primarily hardwoods. I have only used .325 on 50cc in the past.
 

Blackgreyhounds

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I run a 16" x 3/8th Tsumura L&T on my MMWS MS261CM. It works just fine. I went 3/8ths just 'cuz that's what I run on my MS361 and MS461. Unfortunately, I got my Tsumura bars before Nate @fordf150 started importing them. At that time, they were only available in 0.063 in N. A. Kind of a PITA, because my Stihl dealer and his supplier only stock 3/8ths chain in 0.050. 20180121_221754.jpg So my advice, if you go with 3/8ths definitely get it in 0.050!
 

Reedo

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I like the idea of the 3/8” being more versatile than the .325. I have only run .325 on my 026 and 550xp in the past. My only hang up with 3/8” on a 16” is I highly doubt I would ever run a 16” on a saw larger than the 261. Having never ran 3/8” vs .325 in that size I haven’t experienced the durability advantage in dirtier wood. Is it really all that significant?
 

Dub11

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I like the idea of the 3/8” being more versatile than the .325. I have only run .325 on my 026 and 550xp in the past. My only hang up with 3/8” on a 16” is I highly doubt I would ever run a 16” on a saw larger than the 261. Having never ran 3/8” vs .325 in that size I haven’t experienced the durability advantage in dirtier wood. Is it really all that significant?

What saws are you running now? And 3/8 will clear chips really good to over that .325
 

Reedo

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I still have the 550, 026, 562, 590, 066, and 201. I have just never run 3/8 on a small saw so I don’t know what to expect but it does sound like a good idea especially if I end up with anything between those sizes.
 

RI Chevy

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I run both on my 026s, 261s.
If I use .325, I usually put an 8 pin rim on it.
Nothing wrong with using .325. Readily available and keeps rpms up in the cut.
That being said, I also have both 16 and 18 3/8 setups as well. Square file chain to go on them.
 

RI Chevy

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His new website is pretty good. Shows what he has in stock right on the site along with prices and shipping.
 

Reedo

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Just got off the phone with Nate @fordf150. He said at this time they only go down to 20” in the 3003 mount. They are available for Husky’s K095 though. He did state they may become available in the future but that size reduced weight bar is a slow seller so we will see.
 

Reedo

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I guess that explains why I was having a hard time locating one.
 

RI Chevy

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Good point. Both my smaller 16 and 18 bars are the full weight bars. I really don't notice much weight difference on the smaller bars. Plus regular bars are cheaper. Lol
 

Ryan Browne

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The Japanese lightweight bars are very nice. Light, good quality, replaceable tips, bling factor, etc. That said, a regular stihl rollomatic E bar is about the same weight and a lot cheaper. In the long run, the sugis and Tsumuras might be a better deal because of the tips and the quality, but it'd take a lot of hours of run time before it penciled out.
 
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