High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

036 oiler nightmare

MattG

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MattG

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I actually bought another kit today. Because I'm soooo OCD and a control freak at heart....I'm gonna do the whole job again....I picked up a second hand genuine pump (now that is from the good ol' US of A - for $21 or £26 to me).

It's cos I cheated a bit when I did the one on my saw last weekend and I dressed the barb down a little to make it easier. (It still works fine mind you). But this next I'm gonna try to do it without any cheats :)
 

Stihlsmoking

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Just installed my oil line kit not as bad as I though got the line on oiler by hand ( most of the way ) wife's hair dryer for a minute for the final push. Went to put back together and noticed this. Bent to crap. Had to grab one from a parts saw ? Wtf
IMG_6678.JPG
 

MattG

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Just installed my oil line kit not as bad as I though got the line on oiler by hand ( most of the way ) wife's hair dryer for a minute for the final push. Went to put back together and noticed this. Bent to crap. Had to grab one from a parts saw ? Wtf
View attachment 106747
I'm glad you got that line figured out mate. What happened to your worm wire is very similar to mine.

But I think that my issue occurred because the clutch had been fitted without the cover washer that goes between the wormgear and the clutch. Do you know why yours went wrong in the first place?

In fact why does the oiler get hit. Seemingly by the worm wire? Anyone know the precise answers? We can't all have been missing that cover washer.....or can we?

Ahh....it's the wear in the needle cage right...and that makes the drum wobble and deflect the worm wire down towards the pump body....right?
 

Stihlsmoking

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Do you know why yours went wrong in the first place?
I do not? I bought this in a package deal. When I press/vac tested it I found the head gasket leaking ( first one for me ) iirc the clutch was missing ?
The worm was there and it actually chewed up the case some. And you can see clutch got hot.
IMG_6693.JPG
 

MattG

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I do not? I bought this in a package deal.
I gotcha bud. My moneys still on wobble from a worn needle cage thing. Didn't some peeps earlier on in this thread say it used to be 13mm, then stihl uprated it to 16mm. Yeah, that must be it.

When I press/vac tested it I found the head gasket leaking ( first one for me )
I bought an "only half the saw was there" 064 deal a couple years back. And yeah that was leaky gasket job. I had throw the whole damn thing into a big bucket of water before I spotted it!!!
 

RI Chevy

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036 Rim Sprocket.jpg
What are the 2 specs for the clutch needle bearing?
10x13x10?
What's the other?

On Edit: I just checked the other is 10x16x12
Not sure when the change was made though.

Maybe 2000 model year the change was made to bigger needle bearing, but I am not positive.
 
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Stihlsmoking

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@Stihlsmoking
So has your's got the bigger needle cage and cover washer in now. So it don't go wrong again?
I had to check the rim kit from jon1212 is the 13mm so I'll run that for now. Should be fine with maintenance?
Edit: I'm waiting on clutch and washer now.
 

MattG

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I had to check the rim kit from jon1212 is the 13mm so I'll run that for now. Should be fine with maintenance?
Edit: I'm waiting on clutch and washer now.
I dunno pal. I suppose it depends how hard you push down on it. But when you look at the size of the cage up in @Backtroller 's piccie above, you can see that Stihl weren't messing about with their upgrade. So I guess you've gotta draw your own conclusions from that really buddy!
 

drf256

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I had to check the rim kit from jon1212 is the 13mm so I'll run that for now. Should be fine with maintenance?
Edit: I'm waiting on clutch and washer now.
The originals last pretty well. My ported 036 has been wearing one for years. I do maintain it though.

The upgraded one is supposed to be the same drum and bearing as an 044.
 

Stihlsmoking

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I dunno pal. I suppose it depends how hard you push down on it. But when you look at the size of the cage up in @Backtroller 's piccie above, you can see that Stihl weren't messing about with their upgrade. So I guess you've gotta draw your own conclusions from that really buddy!
This is only a 034 and I have the new rim so we'll see how it goes?
And if your pushing that hard your chain needs sharpened. Lol
But yes the upgrade is much beefier
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Okay. Forget everything I said about my approach to doing these oil lines. LOL

Was at my favorite Stihl dealer the other day and asked him how he did em. Said if he told me he'd hafta kill me.
He's been doing these lines since day one and claims he has a way that is so fast and simple it's ridiculous..., and that's with the hard tube kit and no heat. Wouldn't give it up no matter how hard I tried and is trying to get Stihl to pay him to obtain the the method first. Says they've been warm to it in the past, but aren't gettin' off any caish for his secret..., evidently in favor of their crazy modified pliers method instead. Says if I guess he'll acknowledge it. Also said it's so simple I'll be ashamed of myself for not thinking of it sooner.

I thought I had it yesterday and called him to see if I was correct. How 'bout a hammer and a nail? (Doesn't get much simpler than that!) No cigar. (But he did like the idea and said I was getting close.)

A small hammer and an 3 or 4 penny nail. Cut nail just shorter than the piece of tube depending on length of the nail. (Much easier than modifying a pair o' pliers!) Slide the nail into the tube to keep it from collapsing. Put the pump in a vise or screw it to a bench like Backtroller's example. Tap the line home on the barb. Done. Could also just push the pump onto the hose up against an object since it's supported by the nail and won't kink or bend. The key to 'being close' according to my buddy was using something inside the tube to make the job easier. I've since also thought about using compressed air like doing handle hose but haven't had a chance to ask him about it again.

I also asked him Angelo's question about why such rigid material for the line. Said they did back pressure tests on softer line until they found a material that wouldn't split at the bend or leak at the barb under high temp conditions if the delivery end got obstructed..., as in wrong bar or plugged oil passages. Just sounds like more German over engineering to me.

So guys..., any other guesses?
 
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