Flat files in general

if you want to make one look like new get a plastic 5 gallon bucket stand rusty file up in it fill with water till only tang sticks out stand rebar or wore out file on other side of bucket hook positive lead to file to be cleaned negative to rebar turn on charger add red devil lye to water until needle on charger goes up to what is comfortable to charger. 2 tablespoons lye should be enough. check file in a hour or so. it is amazing how well it works. if it starts cleaning the rebar change polarity because I may have remembered polarity backwards.

dannyupsolate said:

I may have remembered polarity backwards.

Click to expand...

Google 'electrolytic rust removal' to see a bunch of stuff on this. Read a few to see some differences in techniques.

This guy has a fun series of videos on it;
He uses a graphite electrode; most people use some type of sacrificial iron (like the rebar or scrap file as dannyupsolate mentions), and washing soda in the water.

*BE CAREFUL WITH ELECTRICITY AND WATER*

I remember to attach the negative (-) electrode to the the part I want to LOSE the rust,
and the positive (+) electrode to the part I want to ADD the rust to. Plug the charger into the AC outlet last, and unplug it first.

Had good luck with removing rust with it on a lot of things. But if a file is dull and rusty, it will still be dull after the rust is removed. They are a consumable, and need to be replaced periodically. 'Sharpening' them by dipping them is acid is also an 'old husband's tale'.

Philbert

thanks Philbert did anyone ever settle debate about regular baking soda working or not. I never see washing soda around here

The instructions I followed said 'washing soda' so that is what I used. Today, you can find it on line if not locally. I don't understand the chemistry enough to know why one is preferred.

Philbert

sodium hydroxide lye works well . it is available at local grocery store. it only takes a little. no need to make it strong enough to eat human skin. at full strength it is some dangerous scary stuff. always add it to water never add water to the powder. washing soda may be safer.

Washing soda is sodium carbonate.
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate.
Lye is sodium hydroxide.
Maybe even table salt (sodium chloride) will work?

You can experiment, or go with what others say.

Not sure if plain water just does not conduct as well, or if the salt is part of the chemical reaction with the iron oxide.

Anyway, it works well on most rusted iron. I had it blow the chrome off of some rusty chain, but in hindsight, think that this was due to rust actually being under the chrome layer. Tried a bunch of other chemical rust remediations, which you can find in this thread on 'another site'
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Remember: Rust Eats Metal - Removing the Rust Does Not Replace the Metal!

Philbert

Philbert raised a very important point this process is only for steel or iron. Will ruin plated metals or most any other metal. My charger has no copper plate on the tip of the end clamp