MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Al Smith · Apr 6, 2024

I have a 10-10S that was gifted to me that looks brand new .It was purchased by a tree trimmer who didn't use it enough to even file the chain .Typical tree trimmer ,he took the brake handle off .I think it's one of the last of that model ever made so it's a shelf queen .However even at 57 cc verses 54 it isn't any faster .

old 040 · Apr 7, 2024

Al Smith said:
I have a 10-10S that was gifted to me that looks brand new .It was purchased by a tree trimmer who didn't use it enough to even file the chain .Typical tree trimmer ,he took the brake handle off .I think it's one of the last of that model ever made so it's a shelf queen .However even at 57 cc verses 54 it isn't any faster .

I also have a 10-10s, IIRC they also have different porting from the standard 10-10 models. I have never had one that far apart to see if it does though.

cinci5 · Apr 7, 2024

Al Smith said:
I have a 10-10S that was gifted to me that looks brand new .It was purchased by a tree trimmer who didn't use it enough to even file the chain .Typical tree trimmer ,he took the brake handle off .I think it's one of the last of that model ever made so it's a shelf queen .However even at 57 cc verses 54 it isn't any faster .

It's not faster it's torque value is a bit higher because of porting.

Al Smith · Apr 7, 2024

I was refering to cut speed which is both speed and torque .However that was only related to my own personal saws .Besides that the 10-10 was never designed to be a racer but rather a light weight all around saw mostly for firewood .
For reason unknown by me that 10-10 s had a 24" bar and Mac branded chisel chain which leads me to assume it was one of the last of that series although I haven't checked the serial number to verify that .

cinci5 · Apr 7, 2024

Al Smith said:
I was refering to cut speed which is both speed and torque .However that was only related to my own personal saws .Besides that the 10-10 was never designed to be a racer but rather a light weight all around saw mostly for firewood .
For reason unknown by me that 10-10 s had a 24" bar and Mac branded chisel chain which leads me to assume it was one of the last of that series although I haven't checked the serial number to verify that .

Okay, on the cut speed. 24" is pushing it for a full cut, but I use a 24" for limbing after dropped, then I don't have to bend over as far

Squareground3691 · Apr 9, 2024

New Hoodie Day ,

edju1958 · Apr 9, 2024

I had a bit of a problem with the muffler on the 10-10S.seems that the Po was about as subtle with this saw as a ham fisted bull in a china cabinet.The muffler body is supposed to have 2 spot welded nuts on the back that hold the screws that hold the muffler cap on.One of those nuts was missing.I tried to get in behind the muffler with a nut,but there was just no room for any tool to hold the nut.My only other option was to pull the muffler duct off & try to braze the nut in place.I haven't brazed anything in several yrs.,but was successful in braziong the nut on & then reassembled the muffler duct back onto the saw.The last muffler duct I bought was in 2019 &* it was for my Super 6-10A.I got it from Bob J.& it cost me $40.IO shudder to think what it'd cost for a muffler duct now.

Al Smith · Apr 9, 2024

cinci5 said:
Okay, on the cut speed. 24" is pushing it for a full cut, but I use a 24" for limbing after dropped, then I don't have to bend over as far -----as a matter of fact I think I used a 20" and either hung the 24" which was almost new on a nail or on one of the 81 cc Macs

cinci5 said:
.Like I said that 10-10 S gets very little run time .

heimannm · Apr 10, 2024

Ed - I have mine listed for a bit less than that...

Mark

jacktheripper · Apr 10, 2024

Little Pro Mac 10-10 and Mini Mac 35. Both start and run excellently.

JRHAWK9 · Apr 10, 2024

Interesting, I decided to dig back into an old Mac 10-10S I bought for $50 back in '12 or so and shortly after put up in the garage rafters after the auto oiler was pissing me off. It was barely used when I bought it, however when I got it the auto oiler was not working and don't think it was working for much if it's life up to that point judging by how the bar looked compared to the rest of the saw. I ended up throwing that bar away, IIRC. I got the auto oiler working now. I was able to put it back together enough to get it running and it was oiling. I just took apart the oiler and ran Brakleen and air through it. I think some passages were blocked, as even the manual override would not want to depress at times.

After I got it back together last weekend I ran a tank and a half through it. I blew it off after and took these pics.

I do have a question though, are these gas caps supposed to be leak proof? I already replaced the gasket with a new one. When I fill it up and tip it on it's side (like to fill the bar oil) it will leak gas. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the vent hole. I can blow both ways on the vent and it allows air to pass in both directions. One would think there is supposed to be a check valve of sorts to keep gas from leaving while letting air to enter?? It has this style of cap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1857823188...uid=H7CTlJoTRzi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Steve · Apr 10, 2024

JRHAWK9 said:
Interesting, I decided to dig back into an old Mac 10-10S I bought for $50 back in '12 or so and shortly after put up in the garage rafters after the auto oiler was pissing me off. It was barely used when I bought it, however when I got it the auto oiler was not working and don't think it was working for much if it's life up to that point judging by how the bar looked compared to the rest of the saw. I ended up throwing that bar away, IIRC. I got the auto oiler working now. I was able to put it back together enough to get it running and it was oiling. I just took apart the oiler and ran Brakleen and air through it. I think some passages were blocked, as even the manual override would not want to depress at times.

View attachment 415686

After I got it back together last weekend I ran a tank and a half through it. I blew it off after and took these pics.

I do have a question though, are these gas caps supposed to be leak proof? I already replaced the gasket with a new one. When I fill it up and tip it on it's side (like to fill the bar oil) it will leak gas. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the vent hole. I can blow both ways on the vent and it allows air to pass in both directions. One would think there is supposed to be a check valve of sorts to keep gas from leaving while letting air to enter?? It has this style of cap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1857823188...uid=H7CTlJoTRzi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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Very nice clean saw!

No, they shouldn't leak. There should be a duck bill check valve in the fuel cap. Mark has some good fixes for it. I'm sure he will be around shortly to give you specifics.

Al Smith · Apr 10, 2024

I've never had to do but I'm led to believe Homelite duck bill check valves will work .E-bay has a large selection from 5 buck a pop to 9 bucks for 20 with free shipping .Typical e-bay price ranges on the same item .

Al Smith · Apr 10, 2024

On those oilers often times the good old kerosene douche cleans them right up .

heimannm · Apr 10, 2024

You have to be careful with that style of fuel cap (with the tether) but use some pliers and pull/twist the insert out being careful not to lose the spring in there. Clean out all of the residue from the old duckbill valve and use a new Homelite or Poulan style duck bill valve. I've found with some of the Poulan type I have to drill the hole out to a #18 drill bit to accommodate the body of the valve.

Mark

heimannm · Apr 10, 2024

I had a guy stop in today to get a starter repair on a Jenn Feng McCulloch 50cc model.

When he started it after the repair it was running backwards...

I guess it must have fired on the up stroke and when it kicked back it kept running in reverse.

I told him to try it again and it was running normally.

Just when you think you've seen everything.

Mark

JRHAWK9 · Apr 10, 2024

heimannm said:
You have to be careful with that style of fuel cap (with the tether) but use some pliers and pull/twist the insert out being careful not to lose the spring in there. Clean out all of the residue from the old duckbill valve and use a new Homelite or Poulan style duck bill valve. I've found with some of the Poulan type I have to drill the hole out to a #18 drill bit to accommodate the body of the valve.

View attachment 415706

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Mark

awesome, thanks! I just went out to the garage and fixed it, as I had 10 or so of those brand new Sten duckbill valves from back when I was playing around with some Homelite Bandits. The old valve was just a black pile of mush.

Scott Kelsey · Apr 11, 2024

Looking for some help. On the hunt for the carb mounting flange for a Super 797 with I believe the Tillotson carburetor. I understand they are hard to find and don't have hopes of finding a factory one, but I believe I remember seeing reproductions (maybe 3D printed). Amy of you fellows know what I am talking about?

jacob j. · Apr 11, 2024

I bought one of the 3-D printed ones Scott - I'll see if I can dig it out.

heimannm · Apr 11, 2024

I have a bag of them somewhere in the attic, but I haven't been able to find them in 3 months of searching...if you want to come and find them, I'll give you one for your efforts.

Mark

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