Recent content by srcarr52

New price, $550.

Snagged it off ebay.

Meh, just run them. I've seen them dented 1/8" or more and still work fine. New starter pulley and it will be good to go!

That will mess with stuff. Time to put a kit in a carb.

I agree with the impulse diagnostic. Check to make sure the barb into the cylinder isn't clogged, someone could have used sealant on the base and accidentally plugged the impulse line. 395 carbs are the Walbro WJ-115 and WJ-119 or the Tilotson options were the HS-298A and HS-300A. 385/390s...

They like to be a little shorter on the intake than exhaust. More like 100 ex, 119 trans, 79 intake, squish at 0.020".

It should be fine, it's actually a pretty blunt underside angle. The side plate could have a little less angle but with the underside of the top plate as blunt as it is it shouldn't be grabby.

I use a 12" disk sander.

I have some sockets and their combination wrenches. No complains, the wrenches are phenomenal.

I made my own bar groove grinder.

Are you marking the leading edge of the coil at TDC?

The procedure I've done in the past is to over bend the rails so you can get the root close to the correct gauge. Then relax the bend at the root by hammering with a undersized shim in the groove or else they'll spring back in a short time. Then grind the bar rails back out to the desired gauge...

If it's out to 0.070" it's done for. You might be able to get it down to 63g but the rails will be pretty thin after grinding the groove and probably not stay put without normalizing them. Overall it's not worth the time vs. the cost of a new bar.

It is a white porous plastic puck. It's just a friction fit, you can melt a couple spots with a hot nail to bond it in.

I'm with doc here, that top fin already has a crack formed in it.