Recent content by GMB74

There should be a diagram cast into the plastic frame of the saw showing the proper orientation of the pump. Check the holes inside the saw housing to get the correct depth of the pump. Too shallow or too deep, the passage holes don't line up and the pump doesn't work.

A 1/4 x 3/8 set screw from the hardware store can be substituted, but since it is larger in diameter you should tap the hole first to prevent cracking the plastic case.

That's kind of an odd one, with the gas tank and shroud in one piece. All the Quantum engines I have seen have a separate tank and shroud setup, very common on lawnmowers. Can you retrofit the separate tank and shroud on your engine? Check out part number 699374. I pick up complete lawnmowers...

I give this guy high marks for ingenuity. Using welding wire to check squish is not something I had ever thought of. I'm not keen on sanding/honing crosshatch marks into a chrome cylinder, but that is just me. Using metal as a base for sanding the cylinder sounds a lot more accurate. But is it...

Redneck Machine Shop This popped up on another Chinese Chainsaw board. While I would never advocate using these methods on a "real" (brand name) saw, they might be applicable to these cheaper machines. If it works, great. If not and it blows up, you are not out a lot of money. Buy another one...

Also, check to make sure your bolts are clamping down on the flanges properly. Sometimes the bolt holes are a tad shallow and the bolts bottom out before the flanges are tight on the case/cylinder. Grind a little off the ends of the bolts if needed.

I have no experience with this specific product, but have found that most automotive RTV sealants will not hold up long term when exposed to fuel (gasoline). They work for awhile, but then fail and cause a leak. Dirko is the Stihl OEM sealer and does hold up. I guess you will have to try this...

Let's get back to basics. Have you done a vacuum/pressure test on the engine to determine if you really have a leak? What about fuel starvation? Have you checked the fuel filter and line for kinks, leaks, sucking flat, partially plugged filter, filter not sitting on the bottom of the tank, etc...

Dug a little deeper. The engine is item #44 in the parts diagram, which is described as a Briggs 133412-0059-01. The carburetor part number is 495652, a Nikki carb. Lots of Chinese copy carbs on Amazon and Ebay. Search for the part number. Hope this helps.

Apparently this is a Sears/Craftsman branded engine. Made under contract for Sears by someone else. We need the model/type/code numbers off the shroud to figure out what you have.

Pinkway saws have been getting good reviews. Apparently they are of above- average quality. There have been reports of people ordering a Pinkway and getting a Chainsaw brand instead. It is most certainly not a 63cc engine. Not a 62cc engine either ( often marketed as one) Not a 58cc engine (...

I love the ad copy for these saws. It shows a powerful 3.5hp V-twin 4-stroke engine that idles at 9000 rpm. Maybe I should get one to play with.......

My saw has the single open transfers. I ordered a replacement cylinder with dual closed transfers to play around with to see if it makes a difference. The muffler is a 3-port, but is a totally open can. No baffles, you can look in the ports and see the piston. One more thing to play with.

I recently got a 5200 Zenoah copy off Aliexpress for $64.32 shipped to my door. That's the cheapest I have seen them recently. The price changes constantly, so keep your eyes open if you are looking for a bargain. It arrived in 4 days, shipped from a US warehouse. Cheap plastics, but nothing has...