High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Husqvarna 2100 scored piston.

Newman

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Disaster has struck my big Husky chainsaw which I acquired 10 years ago. I am new to your site, but have seen a lot of expertise available to members seeking help and opinions in situations like my current dilemma. As you say, "find out why it failed before you just start putting in new parts". Please see attached pictures. It appears to me that the saw was running plenty rich, looking at the spark plug deposits and the carbon on the piston top. The fuel line is in poor shape, some cracks. I had not used the saw in about a years time..new fuel was just mixed before using the saw on this day. The saw was running great after about 5 cuts through a 3 foot diameter cottonwood log. Then it lost power and would not rev up, the fuel tank was about half full, I suspected the crack in the fuel line which I didn't discover until I disassembled the saw, may have become exposed in the half empty tank, thus causing fuel starvation, lean mixture and resulting piston scoring. But the damage to the piston and rings looks more like (foreign object damage) than heat damage. Scoring is all the way from top to bottom, and the steel rings did cut some tiny grooves in the hardened cylinder wall. I have ordered a new piston from the DLA site in Greece. Plus a new fuel line. Any opinions on what else I should check or change before destroying another piston? I think this is a 1979 saw, not sure, since it is also an early XP model.
Thanks for all your help..IMG_1830.JPGIMG_1835.JPGIMG_1839.JPGIMG_1841.JPGIMG_1842.JPG
 

KYsawman

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I would definitely do a leak test with vacuum and pressure on the crankcase seals, it is an old saw the seals don’t last forever, many of the old Homelite saws that I have acquired have been scored by bad seals. I would also replace fuel lines and carb kit. Have you already cleaned the cylinder in the picture above? It still looks like it may have aluminum on it. Is the plating damaged on the cylinder? If so new piston will be toasted in sort order.
 

Newman

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I would definitely do a leak test with vacuum and pressure on the crankcase seals, it is an old saw the seals don’t last forever, many of the old Homelite saws that I have acquired have been scored by bad seals. I would also replace fuel lines and carb kit. Have you already cleaned the cylinder in the picture above? It still looks like it may have aluminum on it. Is the plating damaged on the cylinder? If so new piston will be toasted in sort order.
That sounds like a good idea on doing a vacuum and pressure test. I will search the forum for the proper technique. The inside of the cylinder was cleaned with hydro-chloric acid, then lightly rubbed with 500 grit emery paper. I believe those vertical lines are scratches instead of ridges. They most likely have penetrated into the plating, not sure how thick the plating goes, but none of the plating is flaking loose. The rings also appear to have been scratched, so what ever did the damage must have been pretty hard. I don't know if any carbon deposit or other type of corrosion chemistry could have produced such a hardened foreign object. I'm still guessing it was not caused by excess heat from a lean mix, but from (FOD). But of course I don't have much experience on this subject. I certainly appreciate your expertise. Many Thanks.IMG_1833.JPG
 

srcarr52

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No, that is classic lean seizure.

Foreign objects would have left a lot of indentations on the piston crown and squish band, if it was super fine dust it would have worn the plating out on the intake side.
 

Newman

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No, that is classic lean seizure.

Foreign objects would have left a lot of indentations on the piston crown and squish band, if it was super fine dust it would have worn the plating out on the intake side.
You guys are starting to convince me.. The cracked fuel line, and old rubber parts in the carburetor must be contributing factors. A carb kit and new fuel line along with the new Greek piston and rings are on the way. I believe the new piston will have a different skirt, not the open windowed design on this original one. Will that change anything?
Thanks again..
 

Al Smith

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Seals,clean the cylinder it will probably be okay .On the fuel line find either an OEM molded line or after market .Myself being a tight wad tried a combination of hoses which always leaked and damned if I didn't manage to set the thing a fire .Now that will give you a wake up call .
I found an after market fuel line from MFG supply in Wisconsin ,about 20 bucks .Money well spent
The piston most likely is toast but pictures could be deceiving .Some times you can sand them out,some times not .If so normally a low spot might be okay but a high spot will break through the oil film and the end results will be exactly how it is now .
All that said those are good old saws if you can get them started .
 

Newman

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Seals,clean the cylinder it will probably be okay .On the fuel line find either an OEM molded line or after market .Myself being a tight wad tried a combination of hoses which always leaked and damned if I didn't manage to set the thing a fire .Now that will give you a wake up call .
I found an after market fuel line from MFG supply in Wisconsin ,about 20 bucks .Money well spent
The piston most likely is toast but pictures could be deceiving .Some times you can sand them out,some times not .If so normally a low spot might be okay but a high spot will break through the oil film and the end results will be exactly how it is now .
All that said those are good old saws if you can get them started .
Thanks for the help. I have ordered a Proline molded fuel line from Ebay-$12.95 The cracked fuel line most likely led to fuel starvation or leaning out the mixture? I have a carb kit to install and, I'm also getting a Mityvac tester. The piston is coming from Greece, not sure who the mfg. will be, most likely someone in Asia. I will let you know if I'm impressed or not. Regards,
 

Newman

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I'd suggest using either the OEM cir clips or Stihl clips because often times the after market ones are not that good .
I'll try to find some genuine ones. Thanks for the suggestion
 

EvilRoySlade

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If fixing it becomes more than you care to deal with I would be interested in buying it from you.
 

Newman

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If fixing it becomes more than you care to deal with I would be interested in buying it from you.
Thanks for the offer, I am 75 years and counting. May have to give up one of these days, but not just yet.. I bought it 10 years ago from a guy that was 84.
Jack Slade the stagecoach robber from Virginia Dale, Colorado is just up the road from me. I think he was the name sake for the movie Evil Roy Slade. You probably already knew this. Have a good week-end.
 

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Look up Masterminds method for cleaning aluminum transfer Sharp pick(90 degree) will help feel if it is a groove/gouge or transfer needing sanded/cleaned .. I had a J 2186 score the same way and concluded it was a small zip strip at the carb barb fuel line making a pucker and to allow a lean fuel issue like you are suggesting.
 

Newman

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Thank you for the advice. I may be just a little tardy in reading it though. I just finished putting everything together this afternoon, and fired it up without the muffler installed, so I could see the piston. I only ran it a couple of minutes at idle and a minute at 1/4 throttle. I shut it down and sure enough, there is a very small scratch in both rings and also the piston. It must be up near the top of the cylinder, above the exhaust port. My Greek piston, which was nothing special, probably made in China, will probably join the original one on the scrap heap of life. I will try to find Mastermind's method for cleaning aluminum transfer. Thank you so much for your expert help. I'm a little depressed, right now, maybe a shot of Johnnie Walker Blue Label will help. Regards, Martin
 

Junk Meister

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Thank you for the advice. I may be just a little tardy in reading it though. I just finished putting everything together this afternoon, and fired it up without the muffler installed, so I could see the piston. I only ran it a couple of minutes at idle and a minute at 1/4 throttle. I shut it down and sure enough, there is a very small scratch in both rings and also the piston. It must be up near the top of the cylinder, above the exhaust port. My Greek piston, which was nothing special, probably made in China, will probably join the original one on the scrap heap of life. I will try to find Mastermind's method for cleaning aluminum transfer. Thank you so much for your expert help. I'm a little depressed, right now, maybe a shot of Johnnie Walker Blue Label will help. Regards, Martin
U Tube has a video of the procedure look under Mastermimd work saws If I have stated something wrong that is OK 'Cuz some one will correct me and get you set straight with a link.
You most likely had some transfer still on the cylinder and some one said this would happen so the Jinx is on:(. A pick is easier to detect a bit of transfer or if it is a groove/gouge....than a finger nail. :campeon2:
The Jonny W:campeon2:alker is for celebrating not for that negative stuff..
 

Al Smith

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If it gouged the rings sounds like you have something hard stuck in that cylinder .I would think if it had high spot the rings would just plane it off .
 

Al Smith

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Let me give you another little tip having fiddled with one of those old icons .The one I have came from some island off of Washington state from some kid who was totally lost on how to get it running,cheap .It must have sat on a barn floor for 20 years ,bad coil .So I did the usual,rebuilt the carb .Ran okay for 10- 15 minutes,lean out .Take the carb off a dozen times,nearly wore the bolts out .Damned fuel line deteriorated inside the tank and that black chit made it past the fuel filter and plugged the screen in the carb .I finally had to pressure wash the inside of the tank a half dozen times to be rid of it .That saw gave me fits but I finally got it .The old gal will boogie ,I'l l give it that .
 

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Most folks neglect to get the transfer all off. Even if they do, they don't pay enough attention to the port edges. From the pictures, that jug needs more cleaning.

I think that picture is as taken off the saw possibly, otherwise you are 100% correct about cleaning these cylinders up. Clean, clean, clean and clean it some more until nothing can be felt or seen. New isn't an option for these old saws, so an attempt should be made.
Now what the world of chainsaws really needs is a decent replacement piston for the 2100, any idears on that one?
 

Mastermind

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I think that picture is as taken off the saw possibly, otherwise you are 100% correct about cleaning these cylinders up. Clean, clean, clean and clean it some more until nothing can be felt or seen. New isn't an option for these old saws, so an attempt should be made.
Now what the world of chainsaws really needs is a decent replacement piston for the 2100, any idears on that one?

Nope. Just gotta run a Golf slug with good rings. Using a 395XP slug is possible, but not practical.
 

Stump Shot

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Nope. Just gotta run a Golf slug with good rings. Using a 395XP slug is possible, but not practical.

Maybe you could use your clout to get a Mastermind Edition Cross Performance piston with good pin, keepers and rings already in the box?
 
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