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240 Volt Wiring

Marshy

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I installed a 30A receptacle in my garage to run a compressor that needed 240 volt supply. I use a 3 prong receptical, L6-30. I ran a 10 gauge 2 wire to it and used the bare ground on the third leg of the receptical.

I will check the compressor to see if it is a two or three wire on the male plug.

My question is, should I have used a 10 gauge 3 wire between my beaker box to receptical and land the green lead on the third leg and not use the bare ground?

Reason I ask is, I'm currently making a pig tail drop cord to double use for a future welder and as back feed from a generator (220V). I got a good deal on a 10 gauge 4 wire and so the drop cord will use black/white and the shielded green as the ground. This made me wonder if my 2 wire from box to receptical should have been a 3 wire with shielded ground...
 

Moparmyway

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Residential wiring, if your local codes allow (what I’m assuming is Romex) you to use an uninsulated ground, then you’re fine.

Commercially, all conductors must be insulated, including the ground.

Realistically, you’ll be fine so long as you were carefull about keeping the bare wire away from touching/pinching the insulated conductors and the receptacles terminals
 

Marshy

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Residential wiring, if your local codes allow (what I’m assuming is Romex) you to use an uninsulated ground, then you’re fine.

Commercially, all conductors must be insulated, including the ground.

Realistically, you’ll be fine so long as you were carefull about keeping the bare wire away from touching/pinching the insulated conductors and the receptacles terminals
Yes, I used Romex. Standard residential wiring.

Considering I want to run a 240V welder, should I have used a 4 wire plug? I'll probably have a mig and or stick.
 

huskihl

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Yes, I used Romex. Standard residential wiring.

Considering I want to run a 240V welder, should I have used a 4 wire plug? I'll probably have a mig and or stick.
I believe my miller 200 only has 3 prongs
 

RI Chevy

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How far of a distance is it Wade from your panel to the outlet?
 

JohnnyBlade

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For ur A/C it will work.
For ur welder it will work as long as it doesnt require a neutral for like a digital display or something.
Backfeeding from a generator it will not work.
U will need an insulated neutral wire.
4 wires. 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground.
 

Marshy

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How far of a distance is it Wade from your panel to the outlet?
Not far, the receptical is within 2 ft horizontally but I ran the wire up to the crawlspace and over to the wall stud and back down. Wouldn't hurt much if I had to put a 3 wire in. My biggest goal is generator back feed.

For ur A/C it will work.
For ur welder it will work as long as it doesnt require a neutral for like a digital display or something.
Backfeeding from a generator it will not work.
U will need an insulated neutral wire.
4 wires. 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground.
I'm not sure that is the case. My generator has this type of receptacle.
20190225_224622.jpg
 
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Marshy

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U will need an insulated neutral wire.
4 wires. 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground.
Dont take this the wrong way. What you just described is a 3 wire because 3 leads are insulated. The uninsulated ground is not counted... I think that is standard nomenclature. I'm not an electrician though.

Please let me know what you think. I'm trying to learn.
 

JohnnyBlade

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Not far, the receptical is within 2 ft horizontally but I ran the wire up to the crawlspace and over to the wall stud and back down. Would hurt much if I had to put a 3 wire in. My biggest goal is generator back feed.


I'm not sure that is the case. My generator has this type of receptacle.
View attachment 167727
Dont take this the wrong way. What you just described is a 3 wire because 3 leads are insulated. The uninsulated ground is not counted... I think that is standard nomenclature. I'm not an electrician though.

Please let me know what you think. I'm trying to learn.
Hmmmm. Kinda weird having 2 hots and a ground like that on the generator. I was thinking more of a 4 wire twist lock plug.....IMG_5463.GIF
 

Marshy

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Hmmmm. Kinda weird having 2 hots and a ground like that on the generator. I was thinking more of a 4 wire twist lock plug.....View attachment 167728
Nope, theres all different kinds. My genny have the two horizontal prongs but my receptical on the wall is a 3 prong twist lock. I made a pig tail wich uses the two prong horizontal for the genny side then it is a 3 prong twist lock on the other end.
20190225_230904.jpg

20190225_203958.jpg
Screenshot_20190225-203846_Chrome.jpg
 

concretegrazer

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I'm no electrician but my genny is 3 wire output.
 

Marshy

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This old colman was cheap but was pristine. It says its rated for 15 amps at 220V, just has an odd plug. I already know it drinks the gas. If I ever upgrade I can just change the plug and my drop cord is actually a 4 wire so i could accommodate anything I want. Just the wall receptical is a little harder to change to 4 wire is needed. I'd probably add a new breaker and receptical for a 4 wire if needed so the current receptacle serves my compressor.
Screenshot_20190225-232823_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20190225-232654_Chrome.jpg
 

JohnnyBlade

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Nope, theres all different kinds. My genny have the two horizontal prongs but my receptical on the wall is a 3 prong twist lock. I made a pig tail wich uses the two prong horizontal for the genny side then it is a 3 prong twist lock on the other end.
View attachment 167731

View attachment 167732
View attachment 167733
I stand corrected. I have not ran into a portable generator with that style of outlet in 240v.
My dad actually has an old colman in just str8 120v. Runs great. Prob 30yrs old. Drink oil as much as it drinks gas. Never let him down though. With ur situation i think ur ok then with a 10/2 w/gnd feeding outlet.
 

Al Smith

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You can find those odd balls on flea bay most times a lot cheaper than any where else .I found an oddball recessed male twist lock for an old Marquette buzz box welder that dated back as far as I do .The plug hadn't been made in decades and it was both new and cheap .My dad had that old welder .Dad was a hell of a mechanic but he certainly wasn't an electrician because that thing would light you up .It took me about twice of getting zapped before I fixed it .
That said most generators have either a Nema L 14 20 or L14 30 twist lock plug for 240 volt .But they could have anything depending on when they were made .
 

Moparmyway

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The generator is grounded by itself

Two hots are your insulated conductors

As is for the compressor, your wiring is fine, and probably meets code

As is for the generator back feed, it will work so long as you’re generator isnt gfci’d, but definitely not to code

You should, to be safe, wire your receptacle for a 4 pole twist-lock, 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground, and wire your appliances accordingly as they need.
 

JohnnyBlade

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The generator is grounded by itself

Two hots are your insulated conductors

As is for the compressor, your wiring is fine, and probably meets code

As is for the generator back feed, it will work so long as you’re generator isnt gfci’d, but definitely not to code

You should, to be safe, wire your receptacle for a 4 pole twist-lock, 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground, and wire your appliances accordingly as they need.
I guess this is what i was tryin to say. Thanks Kevin;)
 

JB-PlantHeirloom

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> I ran a 10 gauge 2 wire to it and used the bare ground on the third leg of the receptical.

imho, You are taking a HUGE risk of being electrocuted or causing a fire. That 3rd wire, the neutral always has current in it at 120V/30 amps (A and B part of the phase) and it does get hot. A ground is not meant to have current going through it and the reason it is not insulated is so if the cable gets cut, there is a better chance at a ground path, and it will trip the breaker aka drive a nail through it. Plus, it is cheaper.

A sheath is not insulation rated for the voltage (di-electric) and heat caused by the current, it is meant to keep the cable strands together and that is pretty much it. That is why it is paper thin vs. the insulated conductor cable or the sheath of SOJW? cable that is meant to be used outside or buried.
 

Moparmyway

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imho, You are taking a HUGE risk of being electrocuted or causing a fire. That 3rd wire, the neutral always has current in it at 120V/30 amps (A and B part of the phase) and it does get hot. A ground is not meant to have current going through it.
What makes you believe that his third wire is a neutral ?

Take a circuit with 10 receptacles in it, nothing plugged in, do you believe that the neutral has current

Have you ever measured 120v on a neutral in an operating circuit ?
 
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