Tree Felling Technique Thread

[XP_Slinger]

Howdy fellow fellers,

Didn’t see one so I thought it would be nice to have a thread dedicated to felling techniques. As I came to realize that felling trees for saw logs is wildly different than dropping them for firewood, I received A TON of valuable advice in another thread. I’m still learning a lot from those with more experience around here, it’s not only helping me produce higher quality logs, but also and more importantly keeping me safer as I am felling.

So with all that said, post pics of your stumps, pretty or ugly. We all make mistakes and I think discussing what went wrong is how we truly learn.

Here’s a couple of my latest. My big problem before these was keeping my bore cut level with the face cut. Recently learned the trick of nipping an inch of the outside of the hinge before starting the bore. I’ll try to find a video to illustrate.

My own personal criticism is I left the hinge a little too fat and had to take a little more out after I had driven my wedges as far as I could. Both trees were felled 180* from their natural lean.



Here’s one that shows how bad I was at lining up bore cuts. Tree was down safe, but I wasted some of the butt log from fiber pull due to a hinge that was way too wide. This tree was big for me, 28” DBH, white ash.

 

[XP_Slinger]

This video shows what I’m talking about with “nipping the outside of the hinge from the face to get your bore cut level with the face. Lots of pros don’t need to do it but it helped me immensely. Practice practice practice. @J. Loe has helped me a lot.

Makes the bore cut at the 1:10

I know I’ve put this up before but.

I See this in the hardwoods here a lot.
Minimizes fiber pull but you gotta be careful for kickback and pinching.

Still, gets the good fat wood at the stump.

if your bore cuts don’t line up exactly it’ll still get over to the lay. You’ll have a bypass cut which is fine.

Really this seems less useful for steering and better for getting the wood out of a tree.

 

[huskyboy]

This video shows what I’m talking about with “nipping the outside of the hinge from the face to get your bore cut level with the face. Lots of pros don’t need to do it but it helped me immensely. Practice practice practice. @J. Loe has helped me a lot.

Makes the bore cut at the 1:10

That helps a lot and making sure the face notch is level. If it’s crooked, good luck lining up the back cut!

 

[huskyboy]

I think @TreeLife could have some experience to contribute

 

[XP_Slinger]

That helps a lot and making sure the face notch is level. If it’s crooked, good luck lining up the back cut!

Exactly, hard to be flat with a crooked face. Good point Mason

 

[junkman]

with a longer bar makes it easier to line up your cuts .

 

[huskyboy]

Longer bars do make it easier to line up cuts. But east coast logging is different than west and not everything is interchangeable. 32-36” bar is almost useless here for logging the way we do it. Most of the time I like a 24/28 on a 70-90cc. Been doing a lot of 20” bar work lately though. Residential is the only time you really need a long bar for stumping or felling those fat yard trees here. Your gonna get a lot of varying opinions on this however.

 

[Junk Meister]

My logger friend does walnut. He most always bore cuts all the way through leaving the tree standing on the outside (I don't know the proper terminology)flare/buttress roots then nips them off with a vertical cut. No fiber pull but you don't always control where the tree lands.

 

[TreeLife]

If you aren't harvesting for funds, make your box cut a little high to make it more comfortable to work and so you are less likely to get dirty debris in your cut. Alot of guys like to use 20" bars for falling, they have some false sense that it is for "production". I'd rather not waste my time doing multiple bore cuts and leaving things to mystery. 28"bar is my duty length bar, it reaches thru most timber here unless its monstrous, which in that case you are spending alot more time on your cuts regardless.

Exactly, hard to be flat with a crooked face. Good point Mason

Bottom cut should be parallel to the surface you are working on, if you are not using a Humboldt cut. Your top cut or angled cut depending on situation should be around 30% thru the trees diameter for the most hinge strength, especially if you are cutting a leaner.

ALL OF THIS WILL BE FOR NAUGHT IF YOUR CHAIN IS NOT CUTTING STRAIGHT. Take the time to check your raker depth, top plate angles and gullet depth/consistency. This is the most important aspect of using a saw for actual felling.

I'll try to post some pics if I can. All of this is of course my opinion and is subject to judgement and ridicule lol

 

[XP_Slinger]

If you aren't harvesting for funds, make your box cut a little high to make it more comfortable to work and so you are less likely to get dirty debris in your cut. Alot of guys like to use 20" bars for falling, they have some false sense that it is for "production". I'd rather not waste my time doing multiple bore cuts and leaving things to mystery. 28"bar is my duty length bar, it reaches thru most timber here unless its monstrous, which in that case you are spending alot more time on your cuts regardless.


Bottom cut should be parallel to the surface you are working on, if you are not using a Humboldt cut. Your top cut or angled cut depending on situation should be around 30% thru the trees diameter for the most hinge strength, especially if you are cutting a leaner.

ALL OF THIS WILL BE FOR NAUGHT IF YOUR CHAIN IS NOT CUTTING STRAIGHT. Take the time to check your raker depth, top plate angles and gullet depth/consistency. This is the most important aspect of using a saw for actual felling.

I'll try to post some pics if I can. All of this is of course my opinion and is subject to judgement and ridicule lol

Excellent point about a higher stump being easier to work with. I ran into my dificulties when trying to cut the stump low for saw logs, harder to see that flat line. In firewood it doesn’t matter, cut it high then flush off the stump for a nice block of firewood.

I too have come to prefer a 28” bar and on my 288. Like you, a 28” goes through most of my trees with a few exceptions along the way. I also have come to prefer the power of a bigger saw while felling. Not for speed, but for control while setting the hinge or trigger. I also understand the utility of a wrap when felling, glad I have it now.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I pulled these illustrations from another forum a month ago. Big thing here is not just knowing how to make these cuts, it’s more important imo that you know when to use them. Thankfully, these all have a brief description of when to use them. Only part that is grey to me is what is considered a “big heavy leaner” or a “small leaner” etc.. This is where experience and practice are key.

 

[XP_Slinger]

A few more.

 

[XP_Slinger]

If anyone with experience sees error in any of these methods please let me know and I’ll remove it. Wouldn’t want to put out bad info.

 

[XP_Slinger]

An overly cautious technique I use is no matter how sure I am of the trees willingness to go where I want it, I always set a wedge for insurance. Only time I don’t is if I’m felling to a prominant lean with a trigger. Wedges are a fellers best friend!!!!

 

[beaglebriar]

I bore cut almost every tree. Face cut then bore halfway through at the hinge, walk the cut around to the back, bore in the other side until you feel it meet the first cut then walk that around. Drive a wedge here and there if necessary. Then cut the trigger/ holding wood. 90 percent of the time it works every time. [emoji28]

 

[huskyboy]

I bore cut almost every tree. Face cut then bore halfway through at the hinge, walk the cut around to the back, bore in the other side until you feel it meet the first cut then walk that around. Drive a wedge here and there if necessary. Then cut the trigger/ holding wood. 90 percent of the time it works every time. [emoji28]

That’s what I do most of the time too

 

[XP_Slinger]

I bore cut almost every tree. Face cut then bore halfway through at the hinge, walk the cut around to the back, bore in the other side until you feel it meet the first cut then walk that around. Drive a wedge here and there if necessary. Then cut the trigger/ holding wood. 90 percent of the time it works every time. [emoji28]

Yup that’s what I’m doing now. 10% of the time the wedges do 100% of the work

 

[RI Chevy]

I'm just a hacker. I never bore cut. I use traditional Humbolt cut and wedges. Just me. I also use rope if necessary to pull tree in direction if questionable.
I use KISS principles.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I'm just a hacker. I never bore cut. I use traditional Humbolt cut and wedges. Just me. I also use rope if necessary to pull tree in direction if questionable.
I use KISS principles.

I’m a hacker too buddy. IMO since becoming more familiar I think a bore cut is actually safer than a straight back cut. Bore cutting let’s you set your hinge exactly how you want it as the tree rests calmly on the hinge and hold wood at the trigger. Insert wedges, set the trigger size, then cut the trigger. If it goes over, success. If it doesn’t your wedges have saved your ass and then allow you to move the tree with all the time in the world. Helps me remain focused as a newb cutting for saw logs. That tree doesn’t move until I want it to.

Also almost completely eliminates the chance for a barber chair when felling a leaner.

 

[J. Loe]

This video shows what I’m talking about with “nipping the outside of the hinge from the face to get your bore cut level with the face. Lots of pros don’t need to do it but it helped me immensely. Practice practice practice. @J. Loe has helped me a lot.

Makes the bore cut at the 1:10

You’re making me blush.

I’ll definitely contribute to this thread when my brain isn’t pulped from snow plowing.


YAAAAAAAAA!