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sawnami

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Homelite Super Wiz 66 gear drive with a clearing bar.
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Made a little thread on how to rebuild Husqy saw vents for free.

Abbreviated version: remove vent from saw, pull out vent material, use a 3/16” hollow punch on a used Husqy fuel filter, drop new piece in, done.

AB51DAA4-A291-41CC-A6AB-AE0235DA5CDC.jpeg
 

JohnnyBlade

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Made a little thread on how to rebuild Husqy saw vents for free.

Abbreviated version: remove vent from saw, pull out vent material, use a 3/16” hollow punch on a used Husqy fuel filter, drop new piece in, done.

View attachment 159167
Thats pretty sweet!!! And repurposing old material is better than waiting a few day for a new one to show up. Is that the same kind of material vents r made out of? Havent replaced any vents yet so its new teritory for me.
 
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Thats pretty sweet!!! And repurposing old material is better than waiting a few day for a new one to show up. Is that the same kind of material vents r made out of? Havent replaced any vents yet so its new teritory for me.

It appears to be the same stuff. I used the mighty vac and a new vent pulls 5-5.5 vacuum, this mod pulls around 4. Close enough for me!
 
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Thats pretty sweet!!! And repurposing old material is better than waiting a few day for a new one to show up. Is that the same kind of material vents r made out of? Havent replaced any vents yet so its new teritory for me.

Also its a good temporary fix to get you back in the wood while waiting on a new vent.
 

JohnnyBlade

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Do vents go bad? Or i should ask what makes a vent go bad?
 
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Do vents go bad? Or i should ask what makes a vent go bad?

Everything fails over time. They vent material can become clogged from fines/debris getting into the gas as well as fines and dust where the vent exits the saw. I’m sure Ethanol contributes to the degradation of material as well.

Most will just hit the vent with a quick blast of air and call it good. I’d rather replace it or repair it and know its good.
 

JohnnyBlade

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Everything fails over time. They vent material can become clogged from fines/debris getting into the gas as well as fines and dust where the vent exits the saw. I’m sure Ethanol contributes to the degradation of material as well.

Most will just hit the vent with a quick blast of air and call it good. I’d rather replace it or repair it and know its good.
Never thought of vac testing a tank and breather. A clogged vent could drive a guy crazy trouble shooting. U said ur stock one is drawing 5.5lbs of vac. Is that pretty standard measurment or do they vary?
 
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Never thought of vac testing a tank and breather. A clogged vent could drive a guy crazy trouble shooting. U said ur stock one is drawing 5.5lbs of vac. Is that pretty standard measurment or do they vary?

That I don’t know. I can pull a couple and find out.

To me it would make sense to be relatively easy flowing to match the draw of fuel through the carb while running. If it is clogged, it will build too much vacuum in the tank when running and build pressure if the saw sits and temperatures change (typically resulting in fuel being forced through the carb and puddling in the intake tract). But, if it is too free flowing it can cause leaks out the vent and possibly evaporation issues (in theory). So, a happy medium I guess.
 

redline4

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Once again it's my Dolmar 111.
20190112_102455.jpg

I have been fighting this thing off and on for close to 8 months.
I have it to where it runs good, cold blooded, but starts easy. Just seems to take a while to warm up and spool up properly.

In any cut or just a 6 second piss rev, it surges. Do these by chance have a limited coil?
If so, any thoughts on the surging would be appriciated. I have messed with the H/L settings to no avail.

I figure I will devote 1-2 more hours to it and if I cant get it right, it's getting sold for parts.
 

Tor R

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353G - Year 2010, freebie from my dealer. Low hour saw, straight gas scored.

Had a spare 353 top end, thought why not. 77-122-102, didn't end exactly as where I wanted it to end.
Mike told me about a brilliant alu polish stuff, gave it a try on this jug:
_DSC5410.jpg

else then porting & mm, hda 199 carb and 357 airfilter.
_DSC5427.jpg

_DSC5428.jpg
 

huskihl

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huskihl

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.022"

Would that have any bearing on the surge issue it has though?
That's a little wide, but still useable. That's where the carbon on the piston is coming from. But it wouldn't cause the surging.
A seal might cause it though. Ime when a saw has an air leak of any sort, it'll rev up to a point for a second and then take off and scream
 

redline4

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That's a little wide, but still useable. That's where the carbon on the piston is coming from. But it wouldn't cause the surging.
A seal might cause it though. Ime when a saw has an air leak of any sort, it'll rev up to a point for a second and then take off and scream


The other ring is .016".
It will rev, then you can tell the rpm drops, then back up and down at w.o.t.

Any change of the screws from where I had them it either wont rev up or bogs and falls on it's face.

Maybe I should pull the carb apart. Again.
 

Mkinslow

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The other ring is .016".
It will rev, then you can tell the rpm drops, then back up and down at w.o.t.

Any change of the screws from where I had them it either wont rev up or bogs and falls on it's face.

Maybe I should pull the carb apart. Again.
This sounds like what my husqvarna 50 is doing. I believe my problem is in the carb. Passes pressure and vacuum tests.

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