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Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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I've been looking since Al posted that pic. No clear evidence on which coil those saws came with that I can see.

It's a 0000 part number so available across multiple platforms.

I've seen the Ducati, the SEM Sweden, the US coil and the Japanese ones so far.

I have all of the above on different saws.
Al has a thing for those eye tallions. Eye tell ya’
 

blacksmith

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Used the JMS Tool (belt sander) to relieve the large rod end a drop. I went perpendicular to the crank to avoid any stress risers from forming. It doesn’t get hot, so I doubt that any temper issues occurred. I got .009 clearance on the rod end and more on the stock/untouched weights. I tied up the gaps with twine to minimize the metal fragments getting in the bearing.


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Ok then I did catch what you were saying in previous posts! I must've mis read it the first time and thought you were saying that you were working on saw that was a previous JMS saw. Ok we're on the same page now.

Good deal, I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat. I was just to scared to go that route and mess up the crank being that I already messed it up!
 

MustangMike

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How many with an oem jug?

Two, A CFB with a D jug, and a Dr Al with a Hemi (no fingers) and a 272 modded piston.

The Asian 440 I built with an HLS 460 Door Buster Jug (and an OEM piston), and my most recent (and most ported) Asian 440 BB are no slouches! I don't do any machine work to them, but they run well.

My friend Harold was very impressed when he used my Asian BB recently, and his son needs a saw, so I think it will be going his way. I have others to build.

Another of my Asian BBs has been with a Tree guy for several months now. I just touched base with him a few days ago and he loves it. Says it runs stronger, and is lighter, than his 460s. I figure if it stands up to a year of his use, that is like 10 years for most fire wood guys. He knows full well what it is, we will see how it holds up.
 

smokey7

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Ive always been very concerned with the plating on the ultra cheap cylinders. Thats my main reason for using cheaper rings. Ive had very good luck with hyway rings. There is a guy that sells rings made in Singapore on ebay that i like alot. They cone in plastic box/containers like cabers do. They are gold in color seem to have good tension and maintain that tension after a few years too. Also they seem to brake in well offering great compression. My main reason for using them was on damaged bores and cheap plating hoping they wouldnt eat the plating off like a super hard caber f cast or steel/chrome coated ring from weisco would. After . them in those applications ive used them in re-ring jobs in clean oem jugs with great results. I wish i knew what brand they were but they look like reg husky oem rings with no markings on them atall
 

drf256

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AM parts are similar to many girls from college.

Good from far, far from good.

The plastics have their issues as well. After I went through the trouble of swapping out the trigger with an OEM one to "Maintain the fast idle function" (what everyone claims to be the issue) I realized it's not the trigger at all. It's the plastic AM airbox cover that has the control lever slots cast incorrectly. They grab onto the control bar too tightly and disable free movement.

AM parts aren't really worth the time it takes to make them work correctly, but some people can't afford the OEM stuff.

You get what you pay for.
 

Stump Shot

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View attachment 157327

after market parts are awesome, tank vent no flow, fuel line wouldn't seal to carb,

The "lips" of the little duck bill valve inside the vent are stuck together from new. Pop the vent and separate with a razor and reinstall. Sucks that these things keep repeating themselves, but does let us adapt to head off the problem in the first place the next time around. Pita though it is.
 
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