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Semotony

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3/8” .063 oils better than .404 .063? Not saying it doesn’t but just wondering why it would. I know the 3/8” takes smaller kerf and I might run some on my big saw to see how it go’s. The .404 I have has smaller cutters hight wise than the other
Wood depend on oil pump. The 3/8 has more ports than 404, but the size of the groove is the same, with fewer dl's on 404 with bigger ports. I was considering .050, .058 in a general way.
 

mdavlee

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The 3/8” doesn’t oil any better than 404. A lot of people like to run .050” chain and it works but doesn’t seem to oil as good and the bar groove stops up faster in my experience when you get past 24” of bar milling.
 

Semotony

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The 3/8” doesn’t oil any better than 404. A lot of people like to run .050” chain and it works but doesn’t seem to oil as good and the bar groove stops up faster in my experience when you get past 24” of bar milling.
24" diameter is the limit on most of the band mills around here. My interest in logs usually starts around 28" logs unless the length is a challenge that I'd like to gather for post & beam framing.
 

Stihl Potlicker

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The 3/8” doesn’t oil any better than 404. A lot of people like to run .050” chain and it works but doesn’t seem to oil as good and the bar groove stops up faster in my experience when you get past 24” of bar milling.
i run auxiliary oiler on the end of my bars, i notice a big difference, in that it cuts better
 

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krustysurfer

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I usually did after 34” of bar. The 394/5 and 084/88s didn’t need it til 50”
So we have the 48" mill :p need the aux oiler- Here comes the Question

[1]Are better off using 42" inch Oregon Powermatch bar and chain combo (very inexpensive- like ridiculously inexpensive) however we will only be able to slab 36" max width between brackets because you lose 5-6" after saw is mounted properly?

or

[2] should we consider a Cannon bar (for almost 3 times the price) in the 50" configuration and buy a spool of Rt skip chain and leave excess bar tip hanging out in space (after fashioning a new tip guard) to maximize slabbing width 42" on the 48" mill?

Thanks for all your time fellaz and Happy New Year to everyone :star2:
 

mdavlee

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To max the 48” out you need a 54” bar. Not a common size to find. If you have stuff that needs the 48” mill maxed out at 45” then get a 50” plus. I’d recommend 2 mills. 30-36” and then the great big 48-56”. That’s what I did and sold the 56” after I milked the real wide stuff. Still got the 30” and can mill 27” wide stuff
 

Brian72

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So we have the 48" mill [emoji14] need the aux oiler- Here comes the Question

[1]Are better off using 42" inch Oregon Powermatch bar and chain combo (very inexpensive- like ridiculously inexpensive) however we will only be able to slab 36" max width between brackets because you lose 5-6" after saw is mounted properly?

or

[2] should we consider a Cannon bar (for almost 3 times the price) in the 50" configuration and buy a spool of Rt skip chain and leave excess bar tip hanging out in space (after fashioning a new tip guard) to maximize slabbing width 42" on the 48" mill?

Thanks for all your time fellaz and Happy New Year to everyone :star2:
Get both. No need to run a longer bar than necessary but I love my 50" Cannon. Very sturdy bar once you get over the sticker shock. I run 28, 36 and 50" on my 48" Granberg. I just swap bars and adjust the mill accordingly to what I need. Chains at these lengths get expensive so no need to run more than is required.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 

Semotony

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yes we will need to do that as well :cool1:
I run my mill "backwards" pushing the chips out the other side, so the pumped oil is on the working side. Sometimes a bit of oil is left on top of slab, but not this maple branch 20190408_121555.jpg
1st use of 3/8 .050 lp square chisel from archer20190408_110919.jpg didn't like the looks of the teeth, but is a bit faster down the log. About the same 2nd as the 1st and if I can get it sharpened to the outer corner it will cut much better. Factory sharped as if it's done with a goofy file.
Next slice will split down the pith, easier loading
The stump will need the 50" cannon, drilled in the middle of the rivets to gain 2" of cut. 1" square aluminum bar d&t for 1/4 20 bolt. Opposite corners need relieved to fit in granberg crossbar which are formed for square tube.
 
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Semotony

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never tried milling like that @Semotony
Before acquiring any experienced info, I started doing it that way. Liked it better than strolling thru a growing pile of sawdust/chips. Was kinda neat seeing the chips fly for a distance out the other side20190408_133050.jpg after 3 slices, about42□ feet, it surprized me by not showing signs of slowing down. On further measures, the 60" cannon will end up being used, it too is drilled in the center of the rivets. 20190408_135141.jpg
Like the 42" Oregon in this pic.
Enjoy safely
 
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