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Clutch springs

Stump Shot

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After a couple months in service this saw came back with not one but two broken clutch springs having been replaced with aftermarket ones. At this point the decision was made to replace with OEM from a local dealer. Would have liked to try a different brand but how many times can I have this happen again? None. Upon examining them in comparison to one another the OEM is a little bit heavier, .006" to be precise. So I guess I'm just a bit frustrated, everyone knows repairing saws can get expensive fast, too expensive and the job will be lost. Besides myself(I bought the parts) where else can I point the blame, the one item in question, or the entire line of that particular company's products? Oh well at least I feel a bit better after ranting anyway.

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No, the originals were replaced because they had wear spots on them from(I'm assuming here) a loose drum bearing, as it had all brand new drum, bearing and rim sprocket when it came to me. The guy told me to go through the saw and refresh everything that needed it. So that's why the springs were replaced, as the clutch body looked OK yet. Basically the biggest problem comes from himself using thin drain oil and soaking the clutch(and the whole saw), then complains of it slipping! Think I finally got through the benefits of using bar oil, whole 'nother story. I guess I just needed to vent a little, as the more I think of how I can get through the aftermarket shell game better, the closer I end up at square one.
As far as to what caused the replacements to fail I can only speculate, maybe heat treatment was off just a hair and the were a tad too brittle, surely the .006" wasn't the killing factor. The clutch did engage at the specified RPM by the manufacturer, so who knows, see how it goes from here I guess.
 

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No, the originals were replaced because they had wear spots on them from(I'm assuming here) a loose drum bearing, as it had all brand new drum, bearing and rim sprocket when it came to me. The guy told me to go through the saw and refresh everything that needed it. So that's why the springs were replaced, as the clutch body looked OK yet. Basically the biggest problem comes from himself using thin drain oil and soaking the clutch(and the whole saw), then complains of it slipping! Think I finally got through the benefits of using bar oil, whole 'nother story. I guess I just needed to vent a little, as the more I think of how I can get through the aftermarket shell game better, the closer I end up at square one.
As far as to what caused the replacements to fail I can only speculate, maybe heat treatment was off just a hair and the were a tad too brittle, surely the .006" wasn't the killing factor. The clutch did engage at the specified RPM by the manufacturer, so who knows, see how it goes from here I guess.
The AM clutch springs seem to not take the heat like OEM ones do. Had to put OEM springs on a guys work saw with a Hyway clutch. He likes purple drums :confused:
Maybe these two are related, no?
 

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The AM clutch springs seem to not take the heat like OEM ones do. Had to put OEM springs on a guys work saw with a Hyway clutch. He likes purple drums :confused:
Maybe these two are related, no?

Could be, this fellow recently retired from doing tree service work and I haven't seen him since.
For some reason springs in general from the AM world give me pause.
 

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Could be, this fellow recently retired from doing tree service work and I haven't seen him since.
For some reason springs in general from the AM world give me pause.
I won't use them again on work saws. The clutches seem to be fine.
Tried to post a new thread sorting out clutch drums and AM fuel lines. I think some I have are marked wrong.
1127 358 7702 and 1127 358 7703 are not the same as
1121 358 7700.
Yet these packages appear to be all 290 fuel line not 260. Forget about the 026 thing. The other winner is a clutch drum box marked Made in Brazil. Flip it around and it says made in China lol.
Fuel lines are getting better, finally. And, there was a nice casting Hyway BB 1122 buried in a box.
Anyone using Hyway clutch springs? My 361 has been wearing them for ten tanks or so with out issue.
 

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Could be, this fellow recently retired from doing tree service work and I haven't seen him since.
For some reason springs in general from the AM world give me pause.

I'm thinking that also. Not really wanting to invest in clutch parts that are AM. Gotta get some of those retaining clips for the clutch springs on an 026 that was ran totally without a bearing in the clutch drum.

She took to wobbling and beating about and destroyed the oil pump and chewed through those clips. OP wasn't too keen on maintenance or listening to what was happening to his saw.
 

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After a couple months in service this saw came back with not one but two broken clutch springs having been replaced with aftermarket ones. At this point the decision was made to replace with OEM from a local dealer. Would have liked to try a different brand but how many times can I have this happen again? None. Upon examining them in comparison to one another the OEM is a little bit heavier, .006" to be precise. So I guess I'm just a bit frustrated, everyone knows repairing saws can get expensive fast, too expensive and the job will be lost. Besides myself(I bought the parts) where else can I point the blame, the one item in question, or the entire line of that particular company's products? Oh well at least I feel a bit better after ranting anyway.

View attachment 26655
I agree, any spring from China I've seen isn't even close to what it should be. I'm curious, How much did your local dealer charge you for the clutch springs? I just bought some 1128 springs from my local dealer in the last month and they were less than a $1.00 a piece. Same with the 1122 springs. I didn't know stihl sold anything for a dollar. Lol. That being said I see no reason to use AM. It's hard enough standing behind your work using OEM given the way some people treat their equipment ;-)

Rich
 

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I agree, any spring from China I've seen isn't even close to what it should be. I'm curious, How much did your local dealer charge you for the clutch springs? I just bought some 1128 springs from my local dealer in the last month and they were less than a $1.00 a piece. Same with the 1122 springs. I didn't know stihl sold anything for a dollar. Lol. That being said I see no reason to use AM. It's hard enough standing behind your work using OEM given the way some people treat their equipment ;-)

Rich

I want to say they were around $8.00 for the three with the Governor. To be fair though this fella specifically specified using AM parts to try and save $$$.
 

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What saw broke these AM Springs?

Sorry for not seeing this post. Was an MS361 that really hauled the mail exceptionally well for a stock saw, one of those "One in One Thousand" saw's.

Side note: I have since changed my mind about people telling me what parts I should use, If I know something needs to be betterer than by golly that's whats going to happen or go down the road.
 

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Good for you. Don't want to be penny wise and dollar foolish.
 

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I'm thinking that also. Not really wanting to invest in clutch parts that are AM. Gotta get some of those retaining clips for the clutch springs on an 026 that was ran totally without a bearing in the clutch drum.

She took to wobbling and beating about and destroyed the oil pump and chewed through those clips. OP wasn't too keen on maintenance or listening to what was happening to his saw.

Sorry for not seeing this until now as well.
The worm gears are right there if not worse than the springs. Have lost all confidence for any type of saw usage. (some) parts are good from the AM world it's up to you to vet them first before hand. The original post is a fluke in that 98% of the time if something is not right or going to fail it does so in the testing phase. Overall I think AM parts are getting better as working parts go, there are still those exceptions that slip through.
 

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I want to say they were around $8.00 for the three with the Governor. To be fair though this fella specifically specified using AM parts to try and save $$$.
Been there. Husky 365. Guy brought a bunch of parts (all aftermarket) for a rebuild and port work. Still had a usable OEM cylinder. Most of the pieces were a bear to install. Worm gear was .003 too small I.D. Throttle cable was so stiff the throttle wouldn't return all the way to the adj. screw. (But hey he saved $3.00). Turned a 5 min install into 30 min. Chain brake components needed to "massaged" to fit and operate properly.

Here's my take, if it's your saw and your time.....go for it and "save a dollar". This is how I make a living. I don't have half a day or more dickin around trying to make everything fit for final assembly. I will use top cover plastics, fuel tanks, and clutch covers. That's about it.

I need to have confidence when I'm replacing a part. That it actually fits and works out of the box. Especially if it takes a few days to get here. Then on to the next one. Sorry this turned into a rant on YOUR thread. Sheet like this touches a nerve with me.
 

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Been there. Husky 365. Guy brought a bunch of parts (all aftermarket) for a rebuild and port work. Still had a usable OEM cylinder. Most of the pieces were a bear to install. Worm gear was .003 too small I.D. Throttle cable was so stiff the throttle wouldn't return all the way to the adj. screw. (But hey he saved $3.00). Turned a 5 min install into 30 min. Chain brake components needed to "massaged" to fit and operate properly.

Here's my take, if it's your saw and your time.....go for it and "save a dollar". This is how I make a living. I don't have half a day or more dickin around trying to make everything fit for final assembly. I will use top cover plastics, fuel tanks, and clutch covers. That's about it.

I need to have confidence when I'm replacing a part. That it actually fits and works out of the box. Especially if it takes a few days to get here. Then on to the next one. Sorry this turned into a rant on YOUR thread. Sheet like this touches a nerve with me.

Some AM parts are excellent, like Meteor pistons, or Tsumara and Sugi Hara bars for example.
The parts coming from South America are good too as well as from Hong Kong. Parts from China is still a gamble and need to be checked out first, they're getting better and better all the time.
 

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Been there. Husky 365. Guy brought a bunch of parts (all aftermarket) for a rebuild and port work. Still had a usable OEM cylinder. Most of the pieces were a bear to install. Worm gear was .003 too small I.D. Throttle cable was so stiff the throttle wouldn't return all the way to the adj. screw. (But hey he saved $3.00). Turned a 5 min install into 30 min. Chain brake components needed to "massaged" to fit and operate properly.

Here's my take, if it's your saw and your time.....go for it and "save a dollar". This is how I make a living. I don't have half a day or more dickin around trying to make everything fit for final assembly. I will use top cover plastics, fuel tanks, and clutch covers. That's about it.

I need to have confidence when I'm replacing a part. That it actually fits and works out of the box. Especially if it takes a few days to get here. Then on to the next one. Sorry this turned into a rant on YOUR thread. Sheet like this touches a nerve with me.

Otherwise yes, in some instances the gamble just can't be taken and Original parts should be used if applicable.
 

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There was a post, on Facebook huztl group about c springs.. a o44\440. With f-tec springs
I’ve took a screen shot and kept p/deleted the peeps names out. But that’s me not posting peeps names around the interweby ;)
1473C7BF-0C10-4CDE-9483-8CB18203D77E.jpeg
 
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redlight066

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Some AM parts are excellent, like Meteor pistons, or Tsumara and Sugi Hara bars for example.
The parts coming from South America are good too as well as from Hong Kong. Parts from China is still a gamble and need to be checked out first, they're getting better and better all the time.

I couldn't agree more. I didn't mean all AM. I think it was clear I just meant the curiously cheap stuff
 
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