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Stihl 075 Oiler seals

NPKenny

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Saw is an 075AV.

I’ve searched and found many threads on the oiler, but am uncertain about which seals are the culprit for bar oil feeding into the crankcase.

Would someone please ID which seal and possibly the part # is what I am looking for? The actual pump is pictured below.

Thank you!



A34518C1-E9EE-4E33-B6F8-E387E1B47382.jpeg 5263CF05-ECFB-453B-989B-AF9A5C7E6F20.jpeg
 

DND 9000

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I`m not 100% sure if I`m right, but as I see it, it can be the

oil pump sealing ring in your pic 1111 647 9001,
gasket between the cranckcase halves 1111 029 0501

maybe someone other chimes in and can say you more.
 

NPKenny

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I`m not 100% sure if I`m right, but as I see it, it can be the

oil pump sealing ring in your pic 1111 647 9001,
gasket between the cranckcase halves 1111 029 0501

maybe someone other chimes in and can say you more.

Thank you. For clarification, is the sealing ring the common-looking o-ring or the rubber sleeve? Neither look terrible nor as if they would allow as much oil into the crankcase as was there. I was expecting a more substantial break or larger port to be sealed.
 

DND 9000

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I mean with "sealing ring" the part on the top of the oil pump with the hole in it. I think you call it rubber sleeve. But I`m no expert with these pumps.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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The oil pump shouldn't leak into the crankcase if the o rings are blown. It'll leak everywhere else though.
I suspect you have a case gasket problem or loose case bolts. If the bar oil is leaking heavily on a leaky crank seal then I suppose it could vacuum some in, but a seal that loose would likely prevent the saw from ever running.
 

NPKenny

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The oil pump shouldn't leak into the crankcase if the o rings are blown. It'll leak everywhere else though.
I suspect you have a case gasket problem or loose case bolts. If the bar oil is leaking heavily on a leaky crank seal then I suppose it could vacuum some in, but a seal that loose would likely prevent the saw from ever running.


This makes sense to me and is a root of why I’m posting. Threads across multiple sites claim the 041, 051, 075 / 076 feed bar oil into the crankcase this way due to the placement of the pump. Almost all of the threads end with the recommendation to replace the seals and no follow-up.

Obviously, this is not a series of saw I am familiar with.
 

kfd518

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3E6EC775-C43E-4371-8842-8A26173AA77F.png I beg to differ on this. The Oiler shaft goes into the crank case behind the oil seal the oils seal actually seals on the Oiler worm gear on these saws and the o ring #6 is known for leaking on these pump shafts mine did it as well. There is a Viton oring available, dimensions are 7mmx1.5mm can get at MOST parts stores.
The larger rubber sealing ring #9 or #10 can be found online as well please check your machine serial number per the ipl page pictured as it will show you which one to get. The o rings #1 and #2 should also be replaced at the same time.
 
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NPKenny

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This IPL and the dealer IPL show the "rubber ring" (part #9 and #10) without the foot (see picture of actual ring in first post). The local dealer was not confident in ordering the correct rubber ring as either of the part numbers listed. Will the 1111 647 9000 ring without the foot work on this model?

For reference, the 041 ring has the foot but is much thicker and appears to have incorrect dimensions to transfer to the 1111 series saws.

I have come across a few discussions on this, but no updates on what works.

Thank you!
 

kfd518

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The part you need is dependent upon your serial number as shown on the ipl page I posted a picture of. After the serial number noted in the photo you need #9, before that serial number you need #10.
Your dealer likely has the latest ipl which only shows the later changes I don’t know why Stihl does this but the old paper pile show the changes much better and had previous part numbers also
Edit
From what I can tell your part is#10
 
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NPKenny

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The part you need is dependent upon your serial number as shown on the ipl page I posted a picture of. After the serial number noted in the photo you need #9, before that serial number you need #10.
Your dealer likely has the latest ipl which only shows the later changes I don’t know why Stihl does this but the old paper pile show the changes much better and had previous part numbers also

Thank you!
 

kfd518

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Please see the edit in the last line of my last post I believe you have#10

Edit
The one with the foot (9)actually sat above the roll pin iirc. The solid one(10), the pin goes through the rubber ring.
 

NPKenny

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Please see the edit in the last line of my last post I believe you have#10

Edit
The one with the foot (9)actually sat above the roll pin iirc. The solid one(10), the pin goes through the rubber ring.

Excellent. This saw doesn't have a serial number. The unpainted area is blank and looks factory milled where the serial number should be. I think this had a replacement PTO side case at some point.

The case half is 9 1111 020 2910 if that is helpful in confirming.

I am going to make an order for #10.
 

kfd518

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I can’t help you in the blank sn part but I would guess you are correct that it is a replacement case half
 

Chainsaw Jim

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View attachment 150086 I beg to differ on this. The Oiler shaft goes into the crank case behind the oil seal the oils seal actually seals on the Oiler worm gear on these saws and the o ring #6 is known for leaking on these pump shafts mine did it as well. There is a Viton oring available, dimensions are 7mmx1.5mm can get at MOST parts stores.
The larger rubber sealing ring #9 or #10 can be found online as well please check your machine serial number per the ipl page pictured as it will show you which one to get. The o rings #1 and #2 should also be replaced at the same time.
Somehow I'm trying to remember another seal in there that isn't pictured in the ipl. But I'm probably just mixed up with another model. I have one that's pretty stripped down, so I'll have a look to figure out why I said that.
 

kfd518

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They are all pictured in the IPL. But when you look at it the crank case oil seal seals against the oil pump drive worm not the crank shaft. The pump drive shaft and threads of the worm are behind the crank case oil seal on these. Most of the newer dated IPL’s don’t show previous discontinued parts just the newer ones.
 

NPKenny

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I was able to repair the oil into the crankcase issue following @kfd518 and @DND 9000 postings! Thank you guys.

Then I proceeded to run the saw enough to clear out the oil that was sealing about 10 big air leaks! @Chainsaw Jim nailed it! Crankcase gasket was an ultra black mess, the intake block was melted and warped, the head stud nuts were finger tight so the cylinder base leaked like crazy, etc.

As bad as it seemed, I decided to take it all down and repair it properly.... and found this.

PTO side seal location.

image.jpg

image.jpg

Should I clean it up and epoxy it? Find another case 1/2? Clean it up and install the seal with gap compound?

This saw is no stranger to JB Weld.

image.jpg

For background, this is a saw I am fixing for a really close friend who threw his hands up. I’d like to make it right and not abandon it.

Thank you!
 

kfd518

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My opinion would be to find a used case or case half, and put it back together with new seals and bearings.
I’m no expert though.

Comb the parts for sale thread or place. Wanted add for it.

How are p&c after all the leaks?
 

NPKenny

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Piston and cylinder look good. I never let the saw run long enough after getting all of the bar oil out of the crankcase to do any damage. I don’t think itched ran in a long time before I got it.

This saw was lightly ported at some point.
 
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