CS milling large burl??

[Semotony]

I craiglisted an offer to take away oversized logs from your property by milling them in place. Couple picssaw too small? I'll take it away in pieces
Response speaks of a woodworking person with a large burl who'd like me to slice it for them.
Anyone have any experience with milling this convoluted grain potential? My guess is the results if I tried woodn't make either of us happy, but I have been wrong before

 

[RI Chevy]

Tough to see with those pics. Are you using a Granberg Alaskan type mill? What saw are you milling with?

 

[Semotony]

Tough to see with those pics. Are you using a Granberg Alaskan type mill? What saw are you milling with?

A c couple years ago this ms-460 muf modded & max flow filter was the arsenal for milling since acquired an 046 and a 661c with ported cylinder which will keep me from trying an 088, because that powerhead is so sweet.

More to my conserns is the surface that milling is liable to leave on a burl? A patient miller can use under powered saws to do what they ain't sposed to do. This retiree, I'm guessing,has pictured a beautiful live edge table he has worked his @ss off to make. I don't think chainsaw mill is going to provide the surface he wood prefer to start with.
I ask because the burl in my inventory is cut overseas and processed a lot before being sent to me. Hoping to draw on knowledge of someone who has done this deal

 

[Rob Stafari]

I don't know what they were cut with, but I've seen some pictures of down right awesome looking burl slabs before. I'd have to give it a go. If too worried mill a little thicker to give extra meat for any extra surfacing that may be required. You should have an idea after your first cut though.

 

[Marshy]

Just explain to the guy the surface finish from a chainsaw mill isnt like a band saw. Maybe bring a sample of a sawn slab so he understands what to expect. I'd leave it up to the guy to decide if he wants to go forward. Just as long as he pays you for the time, I wouldn't hesitate if it's worth your time and energy.

 

[Semotony]

Was uptown at Woodcraft store for bandsaw setup and use here is my worry some of the splits may be from chainsaw cutting, or some is from the manner of drying. Mahle (sic) from Australia
While I am here in milling; I met Jack who plays in online auctions. I paid 5 times his cost and it was still a killing
Eight 1 1/4" bandsaw blades by Lenox two are carbide tipped

 

[Lightning Performance]

Some of the wood will always check. That was cut wet and not sealed after cutting. It is also a flitch (sp) which makes it worse. Thinner wood cracks less most times.

 

[Semotony]

Some of the wood will always check. That was cut wet and not sealed after cutting. It is also a flitch (sp) which makes it worse. Thinner wood cracks less most times.

I called the retiree and spoke about splitting the slabs tween us. He wants to include SIL who came up with the burl. Turns out it measures 4' x 5' x 30" thick from what I was told. I need to verify that the grinder I have been using has actually sharpened the chisels before setting up a date to mill.
Also the fellow seems a bit dodgy about splitting the slabs even. I'm gonna write an agreement that will be signed before I unload the mill. He has had the burl in the garage for around three years, so my chances are good I have the answer to the question of how to proceed. If not there is a member down in the area I may get to meet while nearer the bootheel.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I know kinda late to the party but burls seem to hold together rather well because of the interlocking grain. I cut mine with a the chainsaw mill and it isn’t bad to smooth them out with a belt sander

 

[lehman live edge slab]

No idea why it loaded the images twice, three burls cut with a chainsaw and one of them finished into a table top. All spruce burls

 

[RI Chevy]

Beautiful!!!

 

[Fresch]

You can take a router with a straight bit build a frame around your wood make a slide and level or remove any large variation from milling or cutting.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Awesome Woodsystuff you got there...

 

[Semotony]

You can take a router with a straight bit build a frame around your wood make a slide and level or remove any large variation from milling or cutting.

Got what you have in mind; 2" max día, cut 15/16" on a router/planer for those wide slabs . Once I take part of the variety of pieces that can be used I will have an opporational unit to show off. Taking the cutter angle on top plate to around 5° smooths the surface in comparison to the regular 25° which may contribute to gougess into the surface

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

I craiglisted an offer to take away oversized logs from your property by milling them in place. Couple picsView attachment 140230saw too small?View attachment 140233 I'll take it away in pieces
Response speaks of a woodworking person with a large burl who'd like me to slice it for them.
Anyone have any experience with milling this convoluted grain potential? My guess is the results if I tried woodn't make either of us happy, but I have been wrong before

I have a chainsaw mill (think ProCut trailer type) and the surface is so smooth using low pro ripping chain that you would think it was planed. The main drawback when doing the burl is the amount of wood wasted by the chain kerf. BUT, the chainsaw will go through things (if yours is attached near the saw AND bar nose) that would break a band saw or cause deflection.

I have cut white oak slabs (tree was 300+ years old) using just a Husqvarna 365 and 28" bar. Not that I have not owned a 3120, but, sometimes you need to use what you have on hand. You have to "feel" what you are cutting, if you try to "push" it through when you should not, you can cause any mill to dip and dig across the surface, you have to feed at a common sense rate and not be too fast or too slow.

If using the proper full comp low pro chain, with 0-10 degree cutters (I use to do 0/5 alternatives) the surface should look planed and be almost sanded smooth. People that have bought my slabs just did minimum sanding before they coated them.

 

[Semotony]

I have a chainsaw mill (think ProCut trailer type) and the surface is so smooth using low pro ripping chain that you would think it was planed. The main drawback when doing the burl is the amount of wood wasted by the chain kerf. BUT, the chainsaw will go through things (if yours is attached near the saw AND bar nose) that would break a band saw or cause deflection.

I have cut white oak slabs (tree was 300+ years old) using just a Husqvarna 365 and 28" bar. Not that I have not owned a 3120, but, sometimes you need to use what you have on hand. You have to "feel" what you are cutting, if you try to "push" it through when you should not, you can cause any mill to dip and dig across the surface, you have to feed at a common sense rate and not be too fast or too slow.

If using the proper full comp low pro chain, with 0-10 degree cutters (I use to do 0/5 alternatives) the surface should look planed and be almost sanded smooth. People that have bought my slabs just did minimum sanding before they coated them.

Thanks for the info. I have sliced an Ash stump using a 60" bar with square chisel skip chain and a ms-460. So yes gotta use what you have. I wood really like it if Left coast supply got 50"+ bars for 3/8 x .050 lopro. Was able to get 20", &30" lengths while available. Faster & smoother surface

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

Thanks for the info. I have sliced an Ash stump using a 60" bar with square chisel skip chain and a ms-460. So yes gotta use what you have. I wood really like it if Left coast supply got 50"+ bars for 3/8 x .050 lopro. Was able to get 20", &30" lengths while available. Faster & smoother surface

Edited my post ... did not know HLS was the OPE forum. Newbie mistake :-D

The deal of the day is so tempting, I might buy parts I do not need at the moment. The bar oil looks like a really good deal.

I did some more research into the square chisel, it will have to wait until I get a real grinder for it. Though I think my Northern Tools grinder might be able to handle it since you can change the angle of the top plate grind. I have been experimenting with doing it on the MS-180 chain according to the package instructions with the 30 and 10 degree grind.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

I use low profile full comp ripping chain .050 .375 10 degree top plate (though I can use 0 and 5 degrees alternating) and as long as the chain is tight the boards look completely smooth like they were planed and sanded. Please note I use a carriage on a sawmill track, with the bar supported on both ends to eliminate deflection, so things stay level, smooth, and I am able to walk at a steady pace.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

Edited my post ... did not know HLS was the OPE forum. Newbie mistake :-D

The deal of the day is so tempting, I might buy parts I do not need at the moment. The bar oil looks like a really good deal.

I did some more research into the square chisel, it will have to wait until I get a real grinder for it. Though I think my Northern Tools grinder might be able to handle it since you can change the angle of the top plate grind. I have been experimenting with doing it on the MS-180 chain according to the package instructions with the 30 and 10 degree grind.

Every square grinder I have seen the wheel is horizontal, the NT (the $120 clone one) only allows you to do 40 degrees and it is so designed as you can not take down cutters on low pro chains (such as the MS180) because the head hits the arm of the adjuster.

 

[flying pig]

I just use Stihl 404 full skip. Top plate 0-1*, set the rakers @ 0.040”, file with a 3/16 file and file guide for a really big hook angle. That set up self feeds on a 2100 and looks plained as well.