High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Farmertec 066 for milling.

67L36Driver

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Well, I call it an 066 because of the screw caps. [emoji848]

Building it for a client. Tried to talk him into buying/renting/hiring a band mill without success. [emoji57]
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Built straight out of the box (it’s my third one) except for the almost obligatory OEM decomp.

Only real assembly problem was the off center spark plug access hole on the top cover. What’s up with that? !! Sanding drum in drill motor solved it.

058a3a993bc1d4fde9dbffdf64db8b70.jpg


Minor grinding on clutch drum notch and worm gear drive arm make them compatible.

Chain brake spring didn’t seem right but works. Brake band needed tweaking with a pry bar/screwdriver.

Base gasket delete garners .035” piston crown clearance. (We don’t have a lathe.)

Supplied woodruff key fit the flywheel but was too thick for the crankshaft keyway. A touch thinner one from the stash works and ( in theory) gains a few degrees of spark advance.

Bar adjuster is crunchy but serviceable. How often does one use it, really.

Typical stubborn control lever (choke, run, stop) from China. Lots of Lubriplate helps.

More observations as debugging continues.
 
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67L36Driver

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Had to file the bottom muffler bolt holes to line up with the case.
a0240bd6e37ba85a442f58e9d2eef1bc.jpg


Ditto for the bar plate.

Disassemble the starter to add more lube. Preload was set silly high.
 
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bottlefed

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I would suggest you upgrade to an OEM wristpin bearing and high volume oil pump.
 

bottlefed

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Fuel cap gasket/washer went south already. Crap China ‘rubber’. Swelled overnight.


Don't worry the fuel cap is on the top when milling.....

I got some sort of plumbing gasket from the local hardware store while I wait for my 2nd OEM one to arrive......I was ordering the wristpin, bearing, and decomp and had forgotten to look up the fuel cap ring...so the guy at the counter looked it up but when it arrived, it turned out to be an oil tank ring LOL...oh well a couple of bucks figure I may as well use it anyway.
 

67L36Driver

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FWIW:
This is my seventh (7) Farmertec saw I’ve built.

We are not unaware of the wrist pin failure posts.

The high capacity oil pump is for later maybe.

Objective now is to get it operative as to bucking large wood. Seat rings and trigger any failures before delivering to the client.
 

67L36Driver

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Started in five tries this am. Dialed in the idle and HS jets a tad.

No oil at bar mount. Pump pickup hose is restricted inside. Got OEM at my ‘much less preferred’ dealer. Jesse used a gun to rob folks.
 

67L36Driver

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d9c44c6830450ac89d0ca6c1fcde5378.jpg

Add flushing the oil pump to your preassembly to do list. Passage was near clogged with metal chips.
Roll the gear while force feeding oil at both ports.
 

67L36Driver

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Go to mount the bar and the crappy adjuster rears his ugly head.

First one out of five (5) that has trouble. [emoji848]

Oops, I see I’m missing the nylon part.
 

67L36Driver

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Going to have to use the Stihl gear + screw.

In the meantime we will do the ‘pinch bar’ method of chain adjustment.

It’s worked before.
 

MustangMike

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Just using OEM parts won't save ya, and the HL Supply stuff is a lot less (but not as strong).

Usually, with the 660s, the axel for the small gear needs a shim (to force it toward the large gear), and sometimes you also need one under the large gear (to align it with the small gear.

You can ruin OEM stuff almost as fast is you don't do it.
 

67L36Driver

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Just using OEM parts won't save ya, and the HL Supply stuff is a lot less (but not as strong).

Usually, with the 660s, the axel for the small gear needs a shim (to force it toward the large gear), and sometimes you also need one under the large gear (to align it with the small gear.

You can ruin OEM stuff almost as fast is you don't do it.

Link to the thread?

I remember seeing it but unable to find it.

Looking into using the adjuster off my MS361. [emoji848]
 

67L36Driver

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At any rate, it runs and cuts. We just have to find some large rounds for the piddly short (20”) bar.

Tuff being a townie sometimes. [emoji37]
 

67L36Driver

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Found the “Must do” thread. [emoji106]

As luck would have it, I have the 3/16” x .014” wall brass tubing. [emoji108]

I have been using short chunks to make Tygon ‘hose menders’ with it.

We are in like a porch climber. [emoji322]
 

MustangMike

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The ones I have had to shim are not all uniform. Sometimes I have used flashing just to shim it toward the large gear.

The large gear adjusters that come with the kit are often slightly larger diameter, but not as thick, and other makers parts. So if I use their large gear, I often have to clearance the case for it, and put a washer under it to align the gears.

Sometimes the case will clearance by just "heavy handed" turning the gear (w/no other parts inserted), sometimes it takes more than that.

One time I filed their big gear down a bit, and it worked. They are all a little different. Look at it and try to figure what it needs to be properly aligned.
 

67L36Driver

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Chucked up the drive gear in my drillmotor and chamfered the back edge. It turns much freer now.

Tried the bushing deal without success.

The teeth are just not right. I think they need a rounded top edge. Couple hours with a Dremel should fix it. [emoji37]

Meanwhile to get the 066 out the door I robbed the working setup off my Farmertec MS361. [emoji106]
 
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MustangMike

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I just chucked one of those big gears in my drill and ran it against a file.
 

MustangMike

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I like putting the Stihl Elastostart handle and rope on them for 2 reasons:

1) It is easier on your hand, the handle is larger and the cushion is nice.

2) The recoil starter may last longer. I have found that although the AM ones are fairly tough, they are a little more brittle than OEM, and the cushion in that Elastostart handle may prevent you from breaking one that would otherwise break.

How do you like how it runs?
 
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