Beginner's Build ms660

[Clackb@]

Hi guys,. I've found myself with a number of questions since beginningy first build, and rather than make a bunch of threads I thought I'd make one to pose my questions and also describe my build and the problems I've encountered from a first time builders perspective.

 

[Clackb@]

Problems and solutions to date:.
1) Magnesium machining flakes through out the case and bearings. Removed bearings and seals and rinsed case with non chlor brake cleaner.
2) New piston bearing from HLSupply has minor surface rust on the rollers. Jake from HLS assured me it's not a problem. It is a Cross bearing and I noticed it has 10 rollers rather than Farmertecs 9.
3. New big crank seal in Hyway seal kit from HLS did not have a spring in it. Still waiting to hear back.
4) cylinder spacer/gasket from Farmertec was too small. It's The exact diameter of the piston so the skirt of the piston was catching on it at the bottom of it's travel.
I took the cylinder back off and swapped it with the one from the Hyway kit, which gives about a mm or so clearance to the skirt, but needed a bit of cleanup as there were raised burrs all around the outer edge from when it was stamped.

5. The ports on the cylinder were sharp enough to cut your finger on. I sanded them lightly to creat a slight chamfer.

6) there is a small cooling fin on the side of the exhaust port that makes it impossible to get the head bolt in place. Dremel took care of it.

7) There is some slight dimpling towards the bottom of the cylinder, but I'll run it since the rings don't come down that far.

8) The cylinder intake was extremely sharp and had burrs. Sanded the corners to make sure the boot doesn't get torn.

I did make crank puller for the flywheel side by welding a m10 1.00 but to a half inch bolt and grinding it down. Interestingly enough, a standard half inch treaded steel plumbing nipple is the perfect diameter for a sleeve once you cut the tapered thread ends off.

Thanks to Matt O and others for their videos as well as the wealth of information here that have gotten me this far.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Good call on the bearings. Everything (even new parts) should be inspected and cleaned.
Don’t use that seal.
I wouldn’t use that piston bearing.

 

[MustangMike]

OEM piston pin bearings are about $10 at the dealer, go for it.

 

[Clackb@]

So I finally got everything together and it runs, but I'm having a tough time setting the carb. I tried following the Stihl service manual. Turn both low and high one full turn out from seated. But at that setting the idle is at around 2800 according to my tach and the idle adjustment screw will not raise it to 3k as per the manual. It will lower it until it stalls though. Any input on setting up using the huztl carb ( yeah I know they don't have a lot of fans here) would really be appreciated. I'm just concerned that I could cook the piston and head of I get it wrong.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

So I finally got everything together and it runs, but I'm having a tough time setting the carb. I tried following the Stihl service manual. Turn both low and high one full turn out from seated. But at that setting the idle is at around 2800 according to my tach and the idle adjustment screw will not raise it to 3k as per the manual. It will lower it until it stalls though. Any input on setting up using the huztl carb ( yeah I know they don't have a lot of fans here) would really be appreciated. I'm just concerned that I could cook the piston and head of I get it wrong.

Probably real rich. Lean the low a bit. Book settings are just to make it start and you tune from there.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Clackb@]

Thanks. Ill give that a try. Sure is nice to hear it growl. My other saw is a little pp4818av I got at home Depot. My reason for the build was to take advantage of all the free lumber laying around after Hurricane Maria. I've been using my little poulan to make slabs etc of mahogany and other local woods, but it lacks power and is really slow going. Of course the learning experience played a big role as well.

 

[Clackb@]

Yep. It was definitely rich. When I went back to it after a half hour fuel mix had leaked out of the carb and down onto the handle. I'll get back to it in the morning. Don't want to harrass the neighbors so late at night. The neighborhood is just getting used to sleeping without the sweet serenade of generators running all night.

 

[MustangMike]

Make sure you are not leaking from the fuel cap, they are famous for it! An O ring from the auto parts store often cures the problem.

Start with the low one full turn out, and the Hi a bit more (1 + 1/8) (presuming you have a muffler mod). Make sure it 4 stokes at WOT, don't want to burn it up.

Often it the Asian carb does not seem right, the fuel lever has to be adjusted. Other than that, most of them have been pretty good.

If the saw does not stall, I would not worry about raising the idle. I don't even put a tach on mine.

 

[huskyboy]

Thanks. Ill give that a try. Sure is nice to hear it growl. My other saw is a little pp4818av I got at home Depot. My reason for the build was to take advantage of all the free lumber laying around after Hurricane Maria. I've been using my little poulan to make slabs etc of mahogany and other local woods, but it lacks power and is really slow going. Of course the learning experience played a big role as well.

I’m sure you already know, but it’s a 90cc saw and is way more powerful and dangerous than that poulan your used to. Not a toy at all. Just a reminder to be careful sir.

 

[traffic903]

I have found the Huztl carbs often have a leaky welch plug too. If you find it is loading up at idle (going rich) and the metering lever is set right, then that would be the next obvious avenue to explore. The ones I have seen have taken a day or two for that problem to show up. Probably takes that long for the crap sealant they use to dissolve!

 

[Clackb@]

@huskyboy Yep! Not a toy Foy sure. I approach all saws as the dangerous tools they are. Chaps, steel toes, glasses, ear protection and sometimes a mask. If I feel tired I take a break or call it a day. The second you get overconfident, lazy, overtired or just lax around any power tool it will bite you. My first construction boss drilled that into me for five years and it's stuck my whole life.
That said, these saws are beasts and I plan to work my way into using it gradually with some fallen mango on my property. It's in an ideal, clear and level spot.

 

[Clackb@]

The gas leak is coming from under the carb. I'm thinking it's from where the fuel line connects to the tank. Perhaps a small piece of new fuel line to test if that's the issue.

This afternoon I tried the following. I turned the L and H screws out one full turn. At this point the idle adjustment does Nada. I then turned the L back in until I hit the spot of highest idle, and back out 1/4 turn. At this point it idles a little rough, but not too terrible. I turned the idle down to 2600 rpm. I haven't touched the H, but a quick blip to get the top rpm gave me 11500, which seems high. I though I might turn the H out a little more rich. I forgot to mention that I'm using a 40:1 mix.

 

[traffic903]

11500 is quite low actually. I would shoot for more like 12500. You want to be a little rich for the first few tanks but not crazy rich. As long as it is not four stroking in the cut it will be ok. Once it is broken in you can go a bit leaner. Some say to keep the chinese cranks below 13000. I think that is sound advice.

How far out (half turn, three-quarter etc) is your L screw now? If it is less than 3/4 then I bet you have a high metering lever or leaking welch plug. Once warm, can you leave it to idle for a couple of minutes without it dying? If so, then I would just leave it and enjoy using it. If not, it's time to pull the carb and do some investigating.

 

[MustangMike]

Did you check the fuel line junction that connects the upper fuel line and lower fuel line? Many of them were not properly inserted into the tank, and leaked. I had to fix that on one or two of the ones I got.

 

[traffic903]

Did you check the fuel line junction that connects the upper fuel line and lower fuel line? Many of them were not properly inserted into the tank, and leaked. I had to fix that on one or two of the ones I got.

Me too.

 

[Clackb@]

What did you do to fix the connector? Remove and re-seat it or just wiggle it to seat it?

 

[traffic903]

OEM connector and fuel lines.

 

[huskihl]

Pull the fuel elbow out of the tank line and see if it's installed correctly. One end may have a shoulder on it. Shoulder goes down

 

[MustangMike]

I just inserted it correctly, it was installed crooked.