High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Chainsaw milling saws big and small, pros, cons, models...

Lightning Performance

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Just getting together some things to start milling hardwoods for the most part. Lots of saw questions.

I will be using Stihl saws from 60cc-90's for now. Might need to go bigger, might not. Might need to buy another brand.

The cons:
DON'T want. old *s-word like 075 or 2100's
1. No parts support.
2. Saws with upright filling caps.
3. Saws that tend to run hot.
4. Short strokes and big bores tend not to fair well under a huge constant load, avoiding them for the most part.
5. Saws with horrible AV and ignition problems.
6. Chainsaw milling is hard on everything saw related I'm told.

The pros:
1. Relatively cheap quality parts cause I'll be spending my money on saw consumables and go go juices.
2. Side fill caps are a MUST! for me.
3. Cold blooded overgrown pigs of a saw don't matter much here.
4. Long strokes and big clutches will help.
5. Saws with decent AV and no known ignition problems.
6. A saw can have a tuned pipe and appropriate port work, mods, ect...
7. The longer bar(s) won't matter with a good acc oiler.
8. Saws will be set up for rough and finish work.
*9. None of this matters on the beaming saw. Yes one will be dedicated to just that.
10. All fine finish resawn will be sent out or a band brought in.
11. Doing beams, posts and lumber for myself to use!
12. I'd rather not do dry wood for now. Green sawn and gone is the plan.
13. A yoke and winch seems to be the best way to pull a chainsaw mill vs pushing it.

So, here we go with the 660, 394/5, you need a 9000 bla bla bla...
Tell me why your saw is so great at milling and what could be better.

It would be nice to here from guys in the field actually milling logs or have done so in the past and not with all the fancy smancy new high-tech expensive stuff and stuffs. Always interested in others set ups for work related activity. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here.
 

mdavlee

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The best saws out of all the ones I've used to mill are 7900, 395, and 088. I never milled with a 3120 but I would guess it would do well with its lower rpm coil and lugging power.
 

cease232

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I use an 066/660 cause I have a grip of them and parts are plentiful. The 088 for bigger wood and I have a 3120 but haven't milked with it. 090 and 076 occasionally for fun but the vibes are a killer.


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Lightning Performance

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I use an 066/660 cause I have a grip of them and parts are plentiful. The 088 for bigger wood and I have a 3120 but haven't milked with it. 090 and 076 occasionally for fun but the vibes are a killer.


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No 880 or 88's for me. What is the 660's weakest attribute to milling?
 

Lightning Performance

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HLS 36" mill. Pretty well built and straight forward. 28" bar on the saw no worries oiling,plenty of power. Likes gas. But parts are getting scarce so maybe not the best choice.
My top five
Rim an drum? or spur on yours?
Oil pumps available?
Seal?
Bearings?
Piston and rings or OEM top kit?
That about covers it. The rest is all BS to me.
 
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cease232

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No 880 or 88's for me. What is the 660's weakest attribute to milling?

066 Stock oiler is stingy.
I some times square up cants with an 046 and granberg mini mill, works fine. I'd think a 455 would be more than adequate as a beam cutter.


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Lightning Performance

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I think a 455 would kick ass with boost port and pipe. Won't need much else. Carb maybe, ehh. Air intake and filter for sure. Not much left but a double stacked reed. Not really needed but for weekend racing maybe.

The saw does good stock. I need to check parts first. No point in killing it. I'd sell it before wearing it out with no options for repair. It has plenty of life left to live. It was very clean when bought from the original owner. It's bone stock except the muffler baffle is removed.
 

Adamski

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A Makita 9000/9010. Nice well built tough saw. Used mine the other day for 3 1/2 hrs solid milling 28” with a 36” bar. Used just over a gallon of fuel which isn’t bad to me and it has gobs of torque with a muffler mod to keep the cylinder cooler.
Also has different mount positions for Stihl and Husqvarna set ups, would just need the studs changing out.

View attachment 112873
 

Wolverine

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I've had really good success milling with my 394. Oiler is great, tons of torque and it's not super heavy. Ran a 50" on it once for a big maple crotch and it cut pretty fast, I was surprised.
Milled a few slabs with a ported 880 once and it was tank. One heavy sum beach!
 

exSW

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On the Poulan 5200. The good:
Extremely torquey saw.
Factory muffler stays cool.
Factory oiler more than sufficient.
Clears chips fine.
Relatively light. With the mill attached I can walk out with it one handed.
The bad:
No factory P&C
No Aftermarket jugs.
You cook it,you're screwed
 

Lightning Performance

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On the Poulan 5200. The good:
Extremely torquey saw.
Factory muffler stays cool.
Factory oiler more than sufficient.
Clears chips fine.
Relatively light. With the mill attached I can walk out with it one handed.
The bad:
No factory P&C
No Aftermarket jugs.
You cook it,you're screwed
Chrome piston and ring or bore in that one?

Is that like a 064 52x40 or is yours 50x42?
That 9000's a 42 downstairs.

P100 Super cinder block
PARTNER AB. MOLNDAL, SWEDEN. SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: YEAR INTRODUCED: 1982. YEAR DISCONTINUED: ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 100cc (6.1 cu. in.) NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1. CYLINDER BORE: 56mm (2.20 in.) PISTON STROKE: 40mm (1.575 in.) CYLINDER TYPE: Chrome plated aluminum.

Will the oil pump in a 6400-7900 lube a 36" bar milling wood?
 
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exSW

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