Muffler Mods ... When is it just more noise???

[MustangMike]

So, I recently finished building two Asian 660s I refer to as my Asian Twins, as the Cross P+Cs looked nearly identical.

Built them both almost exactly the same, except I did a more aggressive Muffler Mod on the second one. Totally punched out the back of the baffle (instead of just drilling and enlarging a 1/2" hole) and opened up the muffler more aggressively.

When piss revving them, the one with the more opened up muffler sounded a lot badder, and seemed to respond faster. However, after putting B+Cs on them and putting them in some hard dead Chestnut Oak, I think I like the one with the less aggressive muffler mod better. I think it pulled just as strong, and may have had a bit more low end grunt.

Anyone else do any testing or have similar experiences? Although these were Cross MMWS cylinders, I did not do any additional porting to them, other than cleaning them up a bit.

I guess I will have to do some timed cuts if I get a chance to see what the reality is, but would appreciate hearing what others have experienced.

Thanks!

 

[jacob j.]

Several of my modded saws are now running nearly stock mufflers, mainly because I'm old and loud noises are irritating. Two saws have mildly modded mufflers and run great- one being a Solo 681 and the other is an MS-460.

Neither saw got through the wood any faster with a heavily chopped up muffler.

 

[junkman]

Several of my modded saws are now running nearly stock mufflers, mainly because I'm old and loud noises are irritating. Two saws have mildly modded mufflers and run great- one being a Solo 681 and the other is an MS-460.

Neither saw got through the wood any faster with a heavily chopped up muffler.

I am with you ,quiet is better than a second or 2 in a cut

 

[fearofpavement]

I don't think every saw benefits from a muffler mod. Some models however seem to really be helped by them. The biggest factor is how choked down the factory muffler is. And a little goes a long ways. I've seen people just go nuts in opening them up and there is definitely a point of diminishing returns. The majority of my Stihl saws do not have modded mufflers. Some have dual port covers and some I've done some surgery on. The 1127 series is a saw that really really needs to be opened up some.

 

[Motorhead]

I stick to 80% of the exhaust port.

 

[cus_deluxe]

for a saw im going to want to actually use for any period of time (a full tank of fuel) i dont want anything too crazy loud. for play stuff, i dont care how loud it is, i wear ear muffins anyway haha. there certainly is a point of diminishing returns. if its shooting flames, you may have maximized exhaust potential lol.

 

[jakethesnake]

I don’t wear ear muffs so kinda like a regular ol muffler if possible

 

[cus_deluxe]

I think thats @166 saw? Or @spencerpaving ?

 

[166]

I think thats @166 saw? Or @spencerpaving ?

It's a long story but that saw belongs to Bret @spencerpaving. But it's kinda named after me.[emoji57]

 

[166]

Wait until Bret's latest project makes it debut.

 

[Al Smith]

The gains diminish over about 80 percent of exhaust port size .

 

[cus_deluxe]

Ive watched that video probly 50 times lol.

 

[MustangMike]

I stick to 80% of the exhaust port.

And what about baffles, do you always remove them?

I also think the more a saw is ported, the more muffler moding it needs.

Mostly stock saws don't seem to need as much. On 460s and 461s, I often just remove the carb limiters and drill two quarter inch holes on the high right side of the muffler cover. Seems to work well, no screen needed, not too loud, and the guys running them have provided positive feedback.

The tune after the muff mod is usually 3/4-1 turn out on low, and 1+1/16 out on the high (but always check by ear).

 

[Motorhead]

And what about baffles, do you always remove them?

I also think the more a saw is ported, the more muffler moding it needs.

Mostly stock saws don't seem to need as much. On 460s and 461s, I often just remove the carb limiters and drill two quarter inch holes on the high right side of the muffler cover. Seems to work well, no screen needed, not too loud, and the guys running them have provided positive feedback.

The tune after the muff mod is usually 3/4-1 turn out on low, and 1+1/16 out on the high (but always check by ear).

I drill holes in baffles most of the time

 

[MustangMike]

On 066/660s, I have been drilling a 1/2 hole in the back of the baffle. On 460/461s, I have been leaving them as is.

 

[huskyboy]

I find a single good sized port is sufficient for a worksaw

 

[ferris]

@Redbull661
Julian made some test with a 661
If i rember right, at some Point the saw didnt gain more power (cut times were the same or even slower)

 

[Al Smith]

Everybody has their own ideas of what should be done with a muffler .Some don't do any thing . I remove everything,baffles deflectors etc .The only thing left is the shell . They get loud but not that bad ,ear plugs ya know .Most of the time this simple improvement satisfies most peoples desire for enhance performance .

 

[sunfish]

Few years ago I gutted the muffler (removed baffle) on a 562xp and it didn't 'feel' as strong in the cut. Got another muff and did a mild opening, like it mo better. I'll get a pic of a 346 muff I just did that's super easy and not so loud.

 

[Wilhelm]

Mods I made to my Dolmar PS-7300 & PS-7300 mufflers:
- take apart
- enlarge holes in muffler's birdcage/baffle
- maximize stock outlet while maintaining the ability to use the stock spark arrester screen
- reassemble

I did this to my PS-7900 and like it very much, so I did the same to my PS-7300.