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Busted 200T crank case/ what's best epoxy type metal filler ???

dragonslayr

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I bought a pretty used 200T a couple of weeks ago and did not immediately discover the half assed repair that had been done to the outside of the crank case hidden behind the lower handle buffer/ isolator. There are a couple of holes where their (JB Weld-like) gack had dripped into cavity. I am not sure that the screw boss which the isolator screws into had actually been broken loose but can't imagine how it wasn't BUT it is solid and I am thinking about basically touching up the existing "repair" and fill the holes and in fact whole cavity surrounding this screw boss with J B Weld or maybe something even stronger (if it exists). Any input would be much appreciated. Walt~ PS I have already cleaned with brake clean and alcohol and have checked the depth and internal circumference and it (seem) to be isolated from rest of crank case. I have never seed the inside of one of these cases and would also appreciate some input about this. Thanks again, W~
 

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Pic of area in need of repair? And I'm Wayne by the way.
 

dragonslayr

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Call DDave for an AM case...rebuild the whole thing from the ground up. Damn good runners and worth the effort.
many parts are cheap and easy too.
@Definitive Dave
@Lone Wolf
thanks guys,,,,, Again; the screw boss is very sold; in fact the whole area is very solid and my intention was to just fill the remaining two holes which are about an inch deep and after running a bent wire around inside perimeter I determined that there is no existing open channel to any other part of the crank case....here's a photo of existing gack job:
 

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Dub11

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thanks guys,,,,, Again; the screw boss is very sold; in fact the whole area is very solid and my intention was to just fill the remaining two holes which are about an inch deep and after running a bent wire around inside perimeter I determined that there is no existing open channel to any other part of the crank case....here's a photo of existing gack job:
You would almost have to use Gorilla Glue or something like it to run down in that.
 

Lone Wolf

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So what is the saw running now or what happened?
 

dragonslayr

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thanks for the response Lone Wolf and sorry for not doin a follow up earlier. Here's what I decided to do; Since the screw boss was solid I proceeded with the cleanup of the mess that had been done by previous owner with what (appeared) to be J B Weld I decided to use it too. I managed to force it into the two holes that I had exposed and let sit for a day and then sanded and painted and re-installed handle and it seems fine for now. When it's time to re-build I will probably invest in a new case, (or maybe not?) My problem with this saw now is that I still have a major spewing of bar oil which is unaffected by adjustment. It will drain reservoir in short order as soon as I fill. It will drain a half tank during a half hr lunch break! Do I have to tear into and remove oil pump or is there possibly some simple and obvious to everybody else (miracle) that you might suggest? I appreciate any advice you might have and thanks again, Walt~ .
 

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Lone Wolf

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Are you using a thin or or a thick bar oil? Do you have a pressure tester? The pump is behind the clutch take it off clockwise with an impact gun and 13 mm socket. leave the oil pump on clean it all up then find the leak if you can. Pressure test it also it could be leaking from the center case since the saw was hit already. You need to put your finger on the oil tank breather to make it air tight. You pressure test with the pump off and in the oil line going into the tank use soapy water while holding the breather shut find the leak.
 

dragonslayr

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thanks allot Lone Wolf. As soon as I can get free to dive back into some shop time I am going to do exactly as you have suggested and see what we find. I will definitely post the results and we'll take it from there, W~
 

Lone Wolf

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thanks allot Lone Wolf. As soon as I can get free to dive back into some shop time I am going to do exactly as you have suggested and see what we find. I will definitely post the results and we'll take it from there, W~
OK ,waiting.
 

dragonslayr

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Are you using a thin or or a thick bar oil? Do you have a pressure tester? The pump is behind the clutch take it off clockwise with an impact gun and 13 mm socket. leave the oil pump on clean it all up then find the leak if you can. Pressure test it also it could be leaking from the center case since the saw was hit already. You need to put your finger on the oil tank breather to make it air tight. You pressure test with the pump off and in the oil line going into the tank use soapy water while holding the breather shut find the leak.
I just finished removing the clutch and oil pump covers and cleaned it up and have discovered that there are fortunately no fractures anywhere and where the oil is pouring out of is the oiler breather (IF) that is the small hole just ahead of the lower bumper strip? Is there any way to adjust that? Can I shoot carb cleaner back thru it to maybe clear something stuck between some kind of ball and seat that I don't see in the parts manual? thanks
 

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fullsizeoutput_243.jpeg

The red arrow points to it , that what you found?
 

dragonslayr

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View attachment 82576

The red arrow points to it , that what you found?
thanks Lone Wolf... the tiny port in my photo with tooth pick pointing at is what I was talking about. It just poured out oil until about an hour ago when I finally got back in the shop and tried clearing it with a piece of wire; thinking that it had to have a check valve of some kind in there and it worked, (stopped draining). I think that the breather had also been clogged but seems clear now. I doused the tank several times with gas and then alcohol and carb cleaner to get a ton of debris/sawdust out of it. I will run it tomorrow and readjust the oiler and see how that goes. It didn't make sense to me that this little port was the oiler because it seems to be to far inboard and below the bottom of the chain rollers, so is it a secondary oil port and the chain just kinda sucks the oil toward it or some weird science like that?
 

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Lone Wolf

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Still holding?
 

dragonslayr

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we are back to square one!,,,, I ran i
Still holding?
t for a few minutes and saw that it was again spewing about the same as before. I again cleared the little port with a wire and it holds until I run it or take the filler cap off,,, and again adjustment does nothing. Is there a little check valve that can be rebuilt or something? .... Don't know why I hadn't thought about this any sooner but: I just went out to my shop to take a look at my other two 200T's and neither of them have that little port! Did they make an engineering change (cause it wasn't workin) and this one just happens to be an older model? If that's the case shouldn't I be able to just jamb a toothpick in there and call it good cause it sure doesn't seem to be doin anything except wasting oil and making a mess? By the way; to answer one of your earlier questions; I always use the heavier and stickier of Stihl's two main bar oils and this thing has no problem bleeding it out.
 

Al Smith

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I haven't check for a while but not too long ago if you watch flea bay a set of good cases with a crank could be landed for around 50 bucks,020 or 200-t .This was before aftermarket cylinders were on the market so that might have changed .Before all that to re cylinder one was about half the cost of a new saw using OEM Stihl parts .
 

dragonslayr

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thanks Al..... if I had discovered and fractures anywhere besides the one I repaired I would definitely have rebuilt. Situation now is the incessant draining of the oil reservoir through a port that makes no sense to me but definitely appears to have been built in. Still hoping to get some input into it's necessity and think that I will probably just block it off with a little RTV and see what happens.
 

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Man, im nowhere near my saws or mediacat...but that looks like a "hole" and not a port or vent. I can't for the life of me figure out what, if anything goes there. I've seen some guys tap screws in where a hole had busted through and call that a "repair"
 

Lone Wolf

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Man, im nowhere near my saws or mediacat...but that looks like a "hole" and not a port or vent. I can't for the life of me figure out what, if anything goes there. I've seen some guys tap screws in where a hole had busted through and call that a "repair"
It is a hole there like you said Good call.I just came on here to tell him that ain't supposed to be there, the vent is where I showed him in the pic with the red arrow. Fill it in with JB or silicone.
 

dragonslayr

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I finally got a chance to test my hole repair which was: I drilled the hole out with an 1/8" bit just turning with fingers and cleaned again with brake cleaner and alcohol and squeezed in a glob of JB Weld about a kitchen match heads worth in and let it sit for a couple of days and painted to just seal the filler... ran it an hour or so today and she seems fine. Thanks for all your help, Walt~
 
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