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Flying Tiger MS660

MustangMike

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Just received my package today which included a Farmtec MS660 and a Cross MMWS P&C.

I'm dubbing it "Flying Tiger" in the hope that it lives up to expectations.

upload_2017-6-28_18-47-50.png

Although, their logo looks a lot more like a Flying Shark!!!

For those who don't know, the Flying Tigers were a volunteer group of US aviators that helped China defend itself against Japan before the US entered WW II. They had a commendable record, so I hope the saw lives up to expectations. Their P-40 planes were decorated as shown above.

More to follow.
 

angelo c

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Just received my package today which included a Farmtec MS660 and a Cross MMWS P&C.

I'm dubbing it "Flying Tiger" in the hope that it lives up to expectations.

View attachment 75838

Although, their logo looks a lot more like a Flying Shark!!!

For those who don't know, the Flying Tigers were a volunteer group of US aviators that helped China defend itself against Japan before the US entered WW II. They had a commendable record, so I hope the saw lives up to expectations. Their P-40 planes were decorated as shown above.

More to follow.
Just received my package today which included a Farmtec MS660 and a Cross MMWS P&C.

I'm dubbing it "Flying Tiger" in the hope that it lives up to expectations.

View attachment 75838

Although, their logo looks a lot more like a Flying Shark!!!

For those who don't know, the Flying Tigers were a volunteer group of US aviators that helped China defend itself against Japan before the US entered WW II. They had a commendable record, so I hope the saw lives up to expectations. Their P-40 planes were decorated as shown above.

More to follow.
If it only had the RR Merlin engine..

...the Allison just didn't have the turbo for the altitudes.
 

MustangMike

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The Exhaust port roof is flat as a pancake. It is also a bit lower than the first cross cylinder was, so I think I may try to give it some curve.

I also notice the outside of the intake port is not symmetrical, and does not match the boot, so it will need some work.

The muffler has a baffle, but two ports w/o screens. I plan to drill the baffle, and open the main muff hole some.
 

GoBigBlue1984

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Opening things up, checking them out.

The flywheel side bearing is smooth as glass, the clutch side was not. Put some 2 cycle oil on it and it seems good now. You guys think it will be OK, or not?
Biggest thing to watch out for in Aftermarket bearings and I've seen some nachi's with this issue as well. The balls aren't always completely round. A flat spot here and there will show up. That and it seems like the grease they use upon assembling the bearing is cheap, breaks down and doesn't last. Couple those two issues and you get grabby bearings.

Can't wait to watch the build though Mike.
 

MustangMike

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I thank everyone for the input, but we all make judgement calls. The bearing seems very smooth since I put some 2 cycle oil on it, so I am going to go with it. I think it was just shipped dry with some crud in it. Wish I was as comfortable with the large rod bearing, but I can't do anything about that!

I am also going to try and assemble it with the seals in place, and if they get ruined, I will just replace them, no biggie! I'll grease them well.
 

angelo c

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I thank everyone for the input, but we all make judgement calls. The bearing seems very smooth since I put some 2 cycle oil on it, so I am going to go with it. I think it was just shipped dry with some crud in it. Wish I was as comfortable with the large rod bearing, but I can't do anything about that!

I am also going to try and assemble it with the seals in place, and if they get ruined, I will just replace them, no biggie! I'll grease them well.

Mike. IMO. And it's just my limited "experience". I've always asked the "big guys" Jerry (pioneerguy) @jacob j. Neil Murphy and many others that have had tons of bearings in differing degrees of failure. "What do you 'Feel' for when deciding to replace bearing".....crunch was usually the response.
For me I feel for "crunch" when the bearing is "DRY". Not lubed. A few times I split cases I thought were OK but once I cleaned the case and bearing I felt "crunch"....out they went. Spinning a new bearing and spinning a "used" bearing when both are clean and dry tells me when to get the heat gun and swap em.
HTH.
 

Basher

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When I was starting out in the marine engine fitter trade we were taught to feel for bearing problems. If the bearing was small enough to stick one finger in the shaft hole and spin the bearing outer shell any defect can be felt. The experienced hands called this feeling, a hitch, which is the moment any troublesome spot would make contact with the inner or outer races. They had brand new bearings and used ones that were problematic all mixed in with good bearings, our chore was to find the bad ones, after many hours of working them over one developed a feel for a bad bearing, even just one flat spot on a ball will be detectable with time and patience, every bearing,new or used gets a 4 - 5 min test before I use it. I failed a 250 lb, 6" dia shaft size ball bearing just this week, it has a bad spot in it and will be returned.
 

redoakneck

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When I was starting out in the marine engine fitter trade we were taught to feel for bearing problems. If the bearing was small enough to stick one finger in the shaft hole and spin the bearing outer shell any defect can be felt. The experienced hands called this feeling, a hitch, which is the moment any troublesome spot would make contact with the inner or outer races. They had brand new bearings and used ones that were problematic all mixed in with good bearings, our chore was to find the bad ones, after many hours of working them over one developed a feel for a bad bearing, even just one flat spot on a ball will be detectable with time and patience, every bearing,new or used gets a 4 - 5 min test before I use it. I failed a 250 lb, 6" dia shaft size ball bearing just this week, it has a bad spot in it and will be returned.[/QUOTE


That is some big bearings!!!
 

MustangMike

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Sorry for the delay in posting, but the bike ride tonight was brutal, and I'm still recovering from it! 44.5 miles, including 3,312 feet of elevation, and this is their "after work" ride!

Anyway, I installed the crank today. The first side went very well, used my HF $8 heat gun set on high, kept going around the bearing, had my hammer all ready, and did not need it, the crank just slipped right in!

So I was feeling confident, so I started heating the second bearing, but that one is not so open. I did not hit it for as long as I wanted because the ball separator stuff looked like it was starting to be affected. So I started putting it on, all was going fine, but I just stopped for a second to line up the case pins, and the damn thing froze right there! Would not go up, would not go down, so the hammer came out and finished the job. I may have ruined the seal on that side, but have not had time to pressure test it yet.

Next is piston installation, so I spent some time searching for OEM 12 mm clips, I know I have them, but it took some time to find them.

I'll take some pics soon, promise!
 
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