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huskihl

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Yes. It certainry rook rike a Stihr
I have a 36" Alaskan mill that looks identical to the one in your link. There isn't really much that can go wrong with an inexpensive one.
Loosen u bolts, adjust height, tighten bolts, cut
 

Jon1212

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I have a 36" Alaskan mill that looks identical to the one in your link. There isn't really much that can go wrong with an inexpensive one.
Loosen u bolts, adjust height, tighten bolts, cut
Kevin,
For the price, I think I may just take the chance on one of the linked mills.
 

Wolverine

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I have a 36" Alaskan mill that looks identical to the one in your link. There isn't really much that can go wrong with an inexpensive one.
Loosen u bolts, adjust height, tighten bolts, cut
20161002_181248.jpg 20161002_181242.jpg
Before I go any further, I work on motorcycles and engine covers use 8mm bolts that get torqued to 12ft/lbs, so I know what low torque feels like... This just popped with normal use. I borrowed a friends MKIII and milled a ton with it, never had an issue. After I bought my own, this happened shortly after.
These are such a known problem, Granberg simply sent me a new one with a quick phone call that didn't require proof of purchase. They've warranted a lot of em! He said there was a know issue with a run off the production line. The new units now out are made from billet.
NEW-END-BRACKET-for-G777-0881F-1-600x600.jpg
 

huskihl

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View attachment 63872 View attachment 63873
Before I go any further, I work on motorcycles and engine covers use 8mm bolts that get torqued to 12ft/lbs, so I know what low torque feels like... This just popped with normal use. I borrowed a friends MKIII and milled a ton with it, never had an issue. After I bought my own, this happened shortly after.
These are such a known problem, Granberg simply sent me a new one with a quick phone call that didn't require proof of purchase. They've warranted a lot of em! He said there was a know issue with a run off the production line. The new units now out are made from billet.
NEW-END-BRACKET-for-G777-0881F-1-600x600.jpg
One of the u bolt nuts stripped on mine. I need to replace the U-bolt and make sure there's grease or anti seize on it next time
 

junkman

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Does anyone here have any experience with this brand of mill?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Farmertec-P...641321?hash=item41be8acb69:g:e8AAAOSwCU1YrUlO

I would like to start milling some logs I have access to, but am a self proclaimed noob about this stuff. My areas of expertise only extend to sarcasm, the English language, and making fun of @Mastermind for having narrow appendages.
Looks the same as my alaska mill with a better price ,should be fine for what you want to do . a 42 inch bar gives me full use of the 36 inch mill ,most of the time i use a 32 though if smaller wood ,less chain to sharpen that way .I think you lose 5-6 inches of bar from the clamping points .

It is kind of handy on my mill ,the adjustment point nuts are the same size as the small end of my bar wrench ,the 13mm wrench size i think ,so do not need to carry extra wrenches .
 

Jon1212

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What kind of saw will you be using?
Most likely my 395. Though for smaller stuff, I may try using my MS440.
Looks the same as my alaska mill with a better price ,should be fine for what you want to do . a 42 inch bar gives me full use of the 36 inch mill ,most of the time i use a 32 though if smaller wood ,less chain to sharpen that way .I think you lose 5-6 inches of bar from the clamping points .

It is kind of handy on my mill ,the adjustment point nuts are the same size as the small end of my bar wrench ,the 13mm wrench size i think ,so do not need to carry extra wrenches .
Thanks for the great info, Brian.
 

Hammered

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Girls from town like the new sawmill workout.
$10 a session as a personal trainer.
They can stay as long as they want but have to keep cutting!
I fuel up the gas hog & load the it with dirty motor oil.
Oh ya keep the chain sharp after every 6th beers.

Cheers to keeping healthy
 

Hammered

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For years I have been clamping an aluminum straight edge on my rough cut lumber to straighten an edge.
Run the skill saw down and straighten out 1 edge.
Later use the table saw to do the other edge.
It's not a perfect way but does the job.

Just came across this sled well having coffee and surfing for a faster option to clean up lumber using just the table saw.
This is a big part of milling and something that consumes a lot of time.
Picture says it all.
straightcut2.gif
 

Samuel..

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First time milling today used some cottonwood. using my sp105. I was surprised at how easy it was. I took the time sitting up the first cut used some hardwood 4x2. I'm thinking not bad for my first time. Gives you a proud feeling. I removed a 50"+ iron bark and have the trunk to mill

Here's a picture of the iron bark I have to mill any pointers, tips would be great.
IMG_1396.JPG
 

KiwiBro (deleted)

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For years I have been clamping an aluminum straight edge on my rough cut lumber to straighten an edge.
Run the skill saw down and straighten out 1 edge.
Later use the table saw to do the other edge.
It's not a perfect way but does the job.

Just came across this sled well having coffee and surfing for a faster option to clean up lumber using just the table saw.
This is a big part of milling and something that consumes a lot of time.
Picture says it all.
View attachment 65941
Could you find a longer straight edge and mount it to the fence? This way easier to adjust for various widths by just using the fence.
 

lehman live edge slab

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I get lots of trees from in town that would normally get chipped. Nice to save some of the trees that would get wasted and slab them out. Now i need to sell some slabs to build my kiln and buy more saws.
 

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