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Deck framing questions

junkman

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Need some input on framing this 24x26 deck ,have concrete poured on 8 foot centers ,is 2x6 pressure treat strong enough to span 8 feet or do i need to go 2x8 ?and in the center where no overhang ,do i need a board below the deck to hold the joists up in the center area ,or can i just notch the beams and frame in between them ? ,i was thinking 4x6 for more strength if seam every 8 feet ,i was going to add a board around the outer edge because of overhang to set the floor framing on ,but wondering if the center is really needed like that ? i have a ledger board 2x8 attached to the house already to start off of . deck framing 002.jpg
 

paragonbuilder

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I'm not sure what exactly your getting at in the center. Typically the beam is under the joists, especially if you are cantilevering out past them.
And Dallas is right, 2x6 will meet code, but I wouldn't even consider it or give a customer an option. 2x8 for sure.


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Big1066ih

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Headers under the joise is how we do it, doing a 15x26 now. 2x12 headers, 2x8 joise 12" on center
 

Greenthorn

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I built my pool deck with 2x6 joist, and I have 5 foot spans, it's exactly how dall describes, spongy! If I done it again they would definitely be 2x8's, but I was trying to be cheap... I regret it.
 

junkman

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I'm not sure what exactly your getting at in the center. Typically the beam is under the joists, especially if you are cantilevering out past them.
And Dallas is right, 2x6 will meet code, but I wouldn't even consider it or give a customer an option. 2x8 for sure.


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I was going to header the outside perimiter of the deck for the overhang ,and maybe frame like this on the posts in the field ? makes attaching to the house all the same height this way .
021S31037-02.jpg
 

junkman

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I'd drop the beam down and stack my floor joists on the beam instead of using joist hangers. Just my preference. Gravity sucks.
I was going to use 8 foot boards so i can haul them in my truck easier ,thought it would tighten it up at same time ,i will try to get an image of house side where i have to attach to so makes more sense why i don't want dropped headers in the field .
 

paragonbuilder

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I'd drop the beam down and stack my floor joists on the beam instead of using joist hangers. Just my preference. Gravity sucks.

It will be more solid this way for sure. And my preference as well. The only time I go with flush beams is if it's to low to the ground. But it will work this way Brian.


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dall

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greenthorn you could add a 2x6 along the existing joists or between

if you do flush beam i dont see a good way to cantilever the end if i remember correctly suppose to only cantilever 1/4 of the supporting span

using 2x6 or maybe even 2x8 youd have to watch how many people are gonna be on the deck at one time you dont want something to break down and saving a dime on construction cause you to lose a friend to being sued
 

wildroamer

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I'm building a deck for my Dad. Went with 2x10's to be safe. Spans about 23 feet, so rather than have joists on the beam I made, which would require sistering them, I went flush using hangers
 

Al Smith

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The way I look at any framing is there are several ways .If you go the minimum you will get by,might be okay might not .If you go heavier with better lumber it won't cost that much more and you will soon forget about the cost but you'll never forget about pinching pennys .Nothing worse than a spongy floor or a saggy roof .

Long lumber hauling problem,ladder rack .I've hauled 16 footers on my Ranger ,no problem you just make more trips .
 

exSW

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Long lumber hauling problem,ladder rack .I've hauled 16 footers on my Ranger ,no problem you just make more trips .

I once opened the slider in my crew cab and had them stacked on the dash board beside me.

Yeah,I weren't wrapped to tight back then.
 

huskihl

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I've loaded 16'ers in the back of a 6'8" Chevy box before. Up over the tailgate. Helps to stack shorter stuff on top. Ratchet the front and rear down and staple a flag on it. Or just use a trailer
 

An-En

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If humans are going to walk on it 2x8 is minimum for joist. Don't forget to crown every board so you don't end up with uneven surface.
Since you are going with joist hangers make sure to nail em in righteously.
 
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woodtool89

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I've loaded 16'ers in the back of a 6'8" Chevy box before. Up over the tailgate. Helps to stack shorter stuff on top. Ratchet the front and rear down and staple a flag on it. Or just use a trailer
I haul 24' square tube all the time on my 3500 short bed cummins, one end on the tailgate other end on the "headache" rack....wouldn't want to go mush longer though hahah
 

huskihl

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I haul 24' square tube all the time on my 3500 short bed cummins, one end on the tailgate other end on the "headache" rack....wouldn't want to go mush longer though hahah
Yessir. Headache rack changes everything
 

woodtool89

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the top of my tailgate has a flat spot all the way across at the angle the material sits on it....I cant do 24' with the gate down because the it gets too close to the ground in the rear and too high in the front...it sits around 11' tall in the front any taller and ill be catching wires or bridges
 

KiwiBro (deleted)

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Can't say I' a fan of piercing a perfectly good building envelope to fix a stringer to the side of the house, through the house cladding. Far prefer to build the deck completely seperate from the house. Needs a bit more timber and bracing, but the house cladding remains unmolested. Here, we have some BS prescribed method of 12mm spacing, special rubber washers, etc, for the stringer fixing to house. Gives me the hebejebees.

Not saying this is the case in this post, but just a sideways tangent. Designing a deck that will pass muster with the council is on my holiday work list. It'll be on 10" joists on 8 or 10" bearers, braced, anchored, and stand-alone without any direct fixing to the house. I also feel it my duty to remove as many shiny bits of metal as possible because I just hate the BS dependence on proprietary fixings, having recently spent over $2k on the bloody things to keep the council magpies happy on a reno.
 
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